Cubes

Richo, So what do you need? One long and one short half shaft to suit the Kazz? I gather you currently have one of the nismo centers that runs with the 2 short axles (which is essentially 2 of the vlsd short axles)?

Im a regular parmy eater. THE absolute best parmy I've had quality and taste wise has to be from Billy Baxters in the Myer Center. The sauce they use is awesome, so awesome I've sifted through it with a fine tooth and comb and then copied the ingredients back at home. A few Kalamata olives (do go light on these), a little capsicum few herbs and spices, fresh diced tomato's, olive oil + simmered for a while but add the capsicum a few mins before you pull it off the stove = FTW. Don't go adding sugar to remove the tomato's tang/acidy taste, buy a better/different brand and or simmer with plenty of olive oil. Just the olive oil along + simmering is usually enough to bring the acid/tangy taste out of it. The chicken they use is a good quality breast fillet, no brown bits no fat hanging off the end its all cleaned up nicely. And its FAT, not a bashed out or chopped in half through its guts chicken breast. That massive parmy I had on one of the SAU meets I was a little dissapointed. The Sauce was shit, no thought went in to it at all, it looked like tomato paste slapped on top, the chicken its self was thin and wasn't of the best quality, I had a few hard bits, black and fatty bits. :S Billy Baxters in the Myer Center = Chicken Parmy FTW!

drf33t, Driving experience... The feel of the car, throwability. All cars with std suspension in good nick. The R32 and R34's feel pretty on par, light and throwable, neutral understeer with a slight tendancy to oversteer. R33's do feel a tad family car like with a tendancy to understeer a tad. Yes the R33's feel good on the road, but the R32's (providing bushes and suspension isn't shagged out due to wear and tear) and R34's feel better. The R33 is newer has a better motor and gearbox BUT it weighs more. For a fun little track car where I can use the power of a modified RB and thoroughly enjoy it. R32 or R34. The RB20 is an underestimated RB. Well setup just like a well setup RB25 they go extremely well. Take the following video for example. Both R32 and R34 making ~260rwkw. R32 running a plain bearing trust tdo6-20g, the r34 running a GCG highflow with the larger op6 turbine housing. I don't see it getting its arse whooped.

Now this is what I'm talkin about. The vids a bit jerky but none the less. And this was an awesome game.. Lotus Esprit Turbo Challenge. and I'm sure many of you will remember Double Dragon 2 The All mighty Shadow of the Best!! The amiga games of the time owned the PC's EDIT: Lots of quick snapshots of the old games. Karate kid, and a heap of others. RoboCop.. Back when I was 8yrs old lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5Aj2gsWAlM ok i'll stop now.

Screen shot time. Chop a da head and squirt a da blood. And the game that used to get the hairs on the back of my neck standing on end.. Shadow of the Best

lol Leisure Suit Larry. I can't remember which one it was but I could never get all that far in it. I was either arrested for forgetting to do my fly up or dick fell off from an STD. lol

Possibly.. Japlish has the dry weight as kerb weight. Also.. That a tad over 1400kg (1433kg from memory) was for the R33 GTST. My R32 GTST hasn't been on there yet as the weigh bridge is up north so I'd expect around the expected 1320-1340kg's. Might be more. I really should pull my finger out of my... and get it down on the weigh bridge to know for sure. Weights were with no one in the car. I wasn't disputing your statement of the extra weight benefit thing just weights. AWD FTW.

My first attempt at overclocking was with a 486sx25. Got it to 50mhz and was stable too. That was my first comp after the old Amiga 500/600 and then 1200. Who rembers the old Test drive? Loved that game. Memories of the old amiga club meets with external disk drives stacked as high as a monitor all running off copies.

Its wrong. Almost mid 1500's with half a tank of petrol on a local weigh bridge and another mates R33 GTST weighed a tad over 1400kg's on the local weigh bridge also half a tank of petrol. Kerb Weight is with a full tank of juice, all coolant, oil etc. I haven't had my gtst on the scales yet. Being a 92+ I'd expect it to tip in the low 1300's. I believe the weight difference between the early and late R32 GTST's is the side intrusion bars. Pre 92's didn't have side intrusion bars from factory which is why they are down on paper as weighing in around the high 1200's.

$580 delivered from nengun for Sards thats extremely cheap. Sard also have a lot of their range in twin sprays now. Of which I've seen a set of 800cc twinspray sards work extremely well at idle/low rpm; excellent atomization and great fuel economy. I was a little skeptical from the old sard single spray squirters.

Even in rwd you have to be an idiot to spin it on the streets as you can feel it coming around etc etc you get off the throttle a little and it pulls back in. But saying that I haven't ever spun the skyline yet, it gives so much feedback you can feel exactly what its doing; I spun the old VS 5ltr 5speed Commodore but that thing used to have massive amounts of tank slap and wasn't friendly in the feedback department. Awd.. You are able to keep punting at a faster speed and not have to back off as when slip is detected front wheels begin receiving drive and it pulls back in a little easier or even better prevents the arse end from stepping out at all providing you can feel what the car is doing and adjust throttle position to suit. If your going simply way to quick for the road conditions and it snaps out then even awd won't save that arse end, the only way is to jump off the throttle a little and even out road speed vs tyre speed so its neither decelerating or accelerating. Pixel8r, I still don't believe that accelerating MORE will have the car pull out of a corner safer. Once there's slip there's slip, the fronts will already be receiving drive so keep throttle constant or back off it a little and it will pull back in. All it means is that the awd is able to punt OUT of a corner faster 'at the limit' due to its loss of traction and forward thrust limit being higher than that of the rwd. 4wd is safer than rwd if your road speed is at the limit of the road conditions. On ice (note where a lot of GTS4's etc were sold) etc its a completely different story; you almost always have a loss of traction to get anywhere. If you drive in such a manner on the streets with no ice holding that loss of traction to punt out of the corner quicker then it is considered hooning so to speak. Back off the throttle pull it back in and accelerate genty; yes you can accelerate quicker out of the corner than a rwd but once you have that tyre slip the quickest and safest way to pull it back in is to get off the throttle a little. The GTR is up over 1500kg's. So a tad more than 100kg.

Will be handy when you ramp up the boost. Mines close to being finished, it will be very interesting to see how peak power differs. Your running on regular 98 pulp? std cams?

Back in the day. The old 351 XY GTHO - 280kw (Again similiar sort of numbers even to todays performance cars) Ford 2v 4.1ltr Precrossflow - 126kw (Same power as the VN-VR Commodore.) Not a lot has changed really. For a while there power outputs went backwards, now its picking back up again and going stupid.

Because he types as such. -------- But yes.. put the car up on jack stands, remove exhaust, tailshaft, starter motor, wires/plugs/slave cyl on the gearbox, tie a hydraulic jack with wheels to the rear of the gearbox, jack under the front of the gearbox, drop the rear of the gearbox slightly angling the motor backwards, big extension bars, remove bell housing bolts Then u and a friend either side on your backs slide the gearbox out turning it clockwise so the starter motor bell housing lump clears the floor pan. Lower jacks evenly slide gearbox back chock the box up so it doesn't roll over and replace clutch. Then put it all back together again.

Was that Munro's old R34 GTR? Or was that in Zoom? I forget. Either way.. 100% stock GTR around 180rwkwish. With an exhaust 200+rwkw --- But either way this thread isn't supposed to be comparing the aus and oldschool jap.

The difference with macs is it just works. Spend a little time with the latest macos and you'll grow to it. Common look and feel. Windows has its own as does Mac. So going from a pc to a mac without any real prior experience feels clumsy as you say. The same goes when going from mac to windows.

You'd need to add 3 (frommemory) additional wires to the ecu's pinout; easily done if you grab a loom ecu plug from a similiar year nissan thats down at the local wrecking yard. Then you'd be forced to have the ecu remapped. But you loose VCT.

The Macs are actually quite nice. If I was going to spend the $$ on a laptop a mac it would be. Home PC, windowz purely due to software/games thats available. MacOSX doesn't work all that good on PC. I've had it running on an all intel system fairly well but there's still the odd little hickup. Good to become familiar with the system or trouble shooting help etc but anymore and I wouldn't bother.

Volunteer Firefighter. Then you can crack the firemans hose joke with the ladies. lol

$55!!!!!!!!11 lol. If they hold up thats cheap as chips. Definitely keen to see how they hold up.

See how you go with it in manual mode; if you are dropping boost at higher revs throw it in auto mode and have it do its boost curve learn thing in 4th gear. The one issue with auto mode is its prone to spiking IF you don't load it up enough from a low rpm i.e 4th gear. The spiking will occur when you put your foot down and hold it up a steep hill at lowish revs. Dropping boost depends on the boost your running vs what the actuator is rated at, how good your exhaust is and if the turbo is nearing its flow limits. Manual mode offers the best boost response. If you have a keen seat of the pants feel you will notice the manual mode has much sharper response. THe issue with manual mode is your not able to dial in more duty cycle at higher rev's; its a fixed value. Auto mode alters the duty cycle through its learning. I prefer the AVCR due to its fandangled features; which really are not needed unless your making a good whack of power i.e different boost levels for each gear.

Mildrens also charge around $25 per injector; when I went to pick them up he said $20 per injector will do it.

The AVCR is actually a really really good boost controller. The problem is they are not super easy to setup and this is where a lot of people come across spiking problems. As with all boost increases it should be setup on a dyno. I had a blitz sbcid ebc and on the road also found that difficult to setup correct as to prevent spiking it requires a few full rpm rev from just off idle through to redline in fourth gear. So not exactly possible. :S All self duty cycle learning type boost controllers will have this problem. Get them tuned on a dyno and they are all good.

You mean compression as in pin height? 1.193" If thats the case then no not suitable. The piston will sit too far down the bore. I believe the rb30's std pin height is around 1.280"

I've only done one on the ground with jack stands and found it quite easy. The old man used to have a pit in the house he recently sold; doing a gearbox in the pit was easy to get to bolts etc BUT getting the thing up and down was a pain in the arse as I had no gearbox lift. No idea of where to get a flywheel machined down south, I used to do it down at a mates girlfriends dads mechanics shop at Aldinga when I was younger. I'll have to look soon though as Im up for another clutch soon. :S Last time I had my flywheel machined the machinist did it as it was also being balanced for the new motor.