Cubes

All look fine. The FC doesn't completely ignore the sensor values as when my airoutlet sensor was bung the a/c still didn't work. Occasionally my heater won't go hot; so I hit the FH and it goes hot. I'm assuming my problem is a dry solder in the control unit some where. Regardless what ever the FH does it makes the heater work.

As Paully said it does sound like a heat issue. BUT... Just to rule it out. Overnight; run memtest looping test 5 and then the following night loop test 8. That will rule out any issues with the ram.

Michael, lol.. Can't agree with you more. Have you checked out the aus circuit lap time thread created by Roy? Get some of your rwd lap times in there. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=46199

The twin's 'shouldn't' be better for traction as having less rotational inertia means they come on harder in the lower gears. But nothing wrong with that if you have 4 wheels clawing at the bitchumen.

Yer haven't been on the computer all that much lately. Just jump on for a sec here and there to whore sau and thats pretty much it. OMFG.. Your actually online and visible now Madaz. Not cloaked. Oh yer. I can't weld for shit. If there's the slightest gap I blow holes. So tack weld and off to the exhaust shop for a quick weld. AAA said it should take them 30mins to 1hr max so at most $60. Sounds like a plan. $$ and parts etc has held me back a tad from getting it on the road quicker; but next week is the week. (As I keep saying) The dump is super easy every thing lines up with the front pipe perfectly using a single 3" 90degree bend. The wastegate is a tad trickier but I'm getting there. I bought a cheapo Carbide bit from ebay which broke within the first 30secs of port matching the flange/spacer. As they say; Poor/tight man pays twice.

Maybe he's still in the shower after waking up next to this thing this morning? Ehhhhhh On ya Paully.

Or.......... Maybe he's found him self a woman????? Possibly in an attempt to avoid that blueballs syndrome.

Definitely need a decent air rattle gun to get the bastards off. Old man has a dewalt rattle gun that got my first diff centers bolts off. But only just. The second center it was only able to remove a few of them. A trip down to the local mechanic and he rattled them off for nothing.

But I'm not saying the big turbo has double the 'intertia lag'. If your at an rpm where the turbo is receiving sufficient exhaust gas for quick full spool then that is where you are able see/measure the inertia 'lag' so to speak. ---------- Shane; Parallel twins are well known to provide better response over a similiar sized big single. So no theory. A large turbo has more of this inertia lag; a smaller turbo has less. Providing they are both at an rpm where they are able to spool easily the smaller turbo's will spool/spin up quicker. Simple physics. Think back to 89 with the first release of the GTR. Why would nissan bother with the added expense of a twin turbo system?

Shane, have a read above at my previous posts. You'll see I said its not the best comparison. Regardless, twins offer better turbo response due to less inertia. Providing there is sufficient exhaust gas smaller turbo's are able to go from idle rpm to 80,000rpm quicker than a wheel 2x its size. Why would Nissan throw ceramic turbines on their turbo's? To lower inertia and provide better response from the turbo.

Antony's starts making a little boost around 2000rpm and then makes ~1bar a shade over 4000rpm; it kicks around 4500rpm. Even though his isn't an rb30dett I think its slightly comparable. His sitting in second gear at 4000rpm and then floor it gets up and goes a hell of a lot quicker than the big single gt35r .82 ever did. It does lag slightly more when accelerating from a low rpm and has stuff all off boost but once its up in the rev's it gets up and goes in the lower gears than his old gt35r ever did. Comparing dyno runs the rb26 has much less mid range and 10rwkw less top end which is noticable once it gets going in 3rd+ gear. When the rev's are up the turbo's feel instant as soon as you nail it; the gt35r never really had that feel even though it was hanging off a larger motor.

Im not sure about others but from what I've seen the big single makes all its boost at an earlier rpm than 2 similiar sized twins. So thats lag. Response; once there's enough exhaust gas to bring both the big single and twins up on to lets say 1bar. Put the foot down; the 2 smaller twins with less inertia are able to spin quicker up to speed and accelerate off. More so noticable in the lower less load gears. Thats my understanding behind why Nissan went twin parallel turbo's, offer the best response when accelerating out of corners.

Perform a sensor check; I've seen a few with bung sensors that work occasionally but most often not. If the car has been owned by a smoker it absolutely clags the crap out of the a/c condensor. Mine was not cleanable so I bought another. Interestingly both refrig temps and air outlet temps dropped considerably. I now often see from -1 to 2 degree refrig and air outlet temps since the core has been cleaned. Prior it would hang around the 4 to 8degree's. With R134A I was only able to achieve at best 8-10degree airoutlet temps; since I dropped R12A in to it temps have dropped considerably, I can't feel the a/c sapping power out of the motor and the a/c compressor when reving up around 4000rpm is now silent.

So which one was having the surging issues? The Rb20 turbine housing one?

I saw a car today driving that was smoking from the engine bay. Got closer; smelt like rubber. Then BANG out flies a belt. I'd suggest similiar; the alt has seized, belt has smoked up, possibly let go and as a result the car overheats. Following that possibly seat was leaving your overflow bottle; My old rb20det overheated once after a 'radiator specialist' cleaned the radiator and forgot to bleed the heater core at the firewall; the overflow bottle was pumping out the water and steam was fogging up the outside of the drivers side front window. Those of you who have had their rb overheat due to not having the system bled correctly knows how damn quick the needle shoots to the H.

I guess what Greg is saying is the singles power delivery aids rwd traction more so than the twins; in other words; what the single gives is more than enough for rwd. The twins that I've seen definitely come up MUCH quicker than the big single when the pedal hits the metal as they say I'll say it again. The comparison I've seen has a lot of variables; but none the less I really do think twins spin up and begin pushing decent air quicker when the throttle opens. We will never really know as who in their right mind goes from a twin setup thats making mid 300's atw to a big single that does the same.

I wouldn't be concerned about oil seeping out of the seal when its sitting around. My bran spanking new gt30 and a mates gt35 all seep oil out of the front and rear seals when sitting around. So not a worry.

There's not really a noticable difference look wise between the rb20 and 25 turbine housings. Be buggered if I could tell the rb25 was larger. The Vg30 or R34 GTT OP6 turbine housings are visually larger. Easy to pick.

Ben, A pic of my old rb20det turbo from a series 2 R32. I've never seen an RB25det turbo with the rb20det O4U stamp. I'd say its a mix/match.

GTS4WD, Try not to over complicate things. Send the block in to be bored/honed WITH the set of pistons. The machinist will measure up the pistons and bore to suite your intended application. Obviously have a little discussion with regards to what the piston manufacturer recommends, intended use etc etc.

I was under the impression twins offered better response once in the rpm where the turbo's are able to make all their boost. i.e in gear roll ons or corner exit. All though not exactly the best comparison. A mates old rb30det gt35r .82. Made all its boost (17psi) around the mid 3000's. He now has an rb26 with mild cams, mines ecu and a pair of rb2530's, it makes all its boost (15psi) a shade over 4000rpm. Both make within 10rwkw of each other on similiar boost. Roll on in second gear at a shade over 4000rpm; the twins get up and go noticably quicker despite the smaller motor. YET they make all their boost later in the rpm. As I said; not exactly the best comparison. Twin 2530's with his setup I thought was quite impressive; definitely not laggy or did it have that big turbo feel the gt35r tends to give. When his rb26 develops the death rattle it will be interesting to see how the 3ltr goes with his setup providing he does go the 3ltr.

Only bringing a deck or two of cards is pretty scabby. I'll bring some as well.

Stake out could be good. I'll bring the deck of cards.

Chop the bottom of the bracket off, simple. There's always mods to be done to the cradle when fitting an 040 in every single skyline. r32, r33, r34 it doesn't matter all require chop chop to the fuel pumps cradle. I consider a mild GTST something with an aftermarket turbo; 250-260rwkw is easily achieved with an aftermarket turbo so it could be debated that an 040 which is nearing its limit at 260rwkw is a little underkill so to speak.

Those precision hypatec's can be had over on ct.com for around $550 with anodized crown I believe. A few of those blokes run them; s3girl here on SAU used to run them and made 470rwkw granted with water injection.