Cubes

Deluxe, Whats the spectator entry fee's?

You said checked the clearances of the actuator. The actuator is not the wastegate With regards to the rb20 turbo; smaller compressor; they are known for falling over at high rpm so its unlikely you would see it overboosting easily. The rb25 turbo on the other hand is different kettle of fish, flowing more air making more power more air has to be bypassed. I really think you should go back and have another look at the dump/wastegate. Wire the wastegate completely open and see if it still makes boost up top. Obviously it will be as laggy as shiet but up over 5500-6000rpm you will see it making some boost; how much boost 15psi? 6psi? If it still makes the 15psi then its 10000000% the dump fouling the wastegate. Even slightly fouling can cause problems. Long runs of hose to the actuator creates issues with boost spike.

lol thats fine.. I no longer associate with them either. Mind you there's a few making some good usable power these days.

Looks like you agree with me then. All R32 RB20 and R33 S1 AFM's have 5 'pins' (not wire). BUT only 4 of them are utilized via the plug (wires). Go pop the plug off yours now and you will see what i mean.

Definitely nothing to do with bov. Everything to do with boost control. That being the boost source, actuator, the flapper and the dump. My bets are on the jjr dump fouling with the wastegate slightly. The rb20 turbo's are known for falling over at high rev's; they drop boost. The rb25 turbo's are just that little bit bigger on the compressor side so they require better wastegate flow to keep boost under wraps. A bloke only the other week had the same issue with his split dump. It wasn't until he removed the dump that he realised the dump was indeed preventing the wastegate from opening fully.

Boost creep. Check the flapper is able to open without fouling with the dump.

Not necessarily. Read my above post mad. The ONLY difference between the 3 and 4 wire afm's is one runs 2 earths. Simply splice them together and done.

Definitely head down to the local tool shop and grab a decent hex bit. I bought a cheapy from the local autostore that was twisting so I went out and bought a sidchrome for $5 more from the tool shop. Perfect no twist. IF the valves stick out or not will depend on the cams. The cams Im running (stock rb25de) have a reasonable amount of overlap and valves were open at TDC. I grabbed some foam and sat the head on that then taped it up. So no issues with sitting the head down on valves. I left the exh. manifold on but removed the inlet manifold. Gave me something reasonable to hold on to when lifting the bastard off. While your there block the rear oil restrictor off. Grab a $2 piece of 6mm black rod from the local steel shop, chop it down chamfer grab a pin punch and smack the old down a little ~ the same height of the new and then smack the new blocked restrictor down on top. Im absolutely stocked with how I now have ZERO oil out of the cam cover breathers. Catch cans absolutely 100% dry; not even a smear. ------- Also remember upon removal to loosen in the reverse order as to what you would when torqueing them up. If you want to save your gaskets should the head have to come off at a later date give them a spray with Hylomar.

Clearances all good? Cranks straight? plastigage.

Yes. The VCT.. I've had a look BUT I haven't purchased or put together anything yet. There's a couple of different options; I remember looking at a VCT controller on nengun or there's the cheaper jaycar route.

None have 5 wires.. R33 S1's have the same wiring as the R32 GTST's; that being 4 wire - 2 earths. The AFMs are the same; both green stickered. The R33 S2's run with 3wires - a single earth. Pink stickered. Splice the 2 earths from the AFM together; its as simple as that. I would assume the S2 and S1 afm's are interchangable providing you splice the earths together or splice it apart depending on which way you are going. I base that on the R33 PFC's run the same airflow curve and map reference without issues. So their callibration should be identical.

Yer plenty of faries about; not wanting to come out last night. hehe

Grab it from Nissan. Cost bugger all. OR.. UAS for one of those fandangled roller bearing spiggots.

Twins are quieter; flow extremely well vs the noise they produce and often than not drove MUCH less if nothing at all. Twins FTW if you can fork out for a twin 2.25-2.5" system. Its the same on the old V8's; twins are quieter than the big singles. Owning v8's in the past its always been the case. The big single on the V8's personally I think sound better.

Opinions mean shit. Technical specs are everything. The PowerFC's are up there with the best with regards to basic *non wank wank* specs. Consider that the Wolf3d isn't all that more expensive when you factor in a decent EBC (of which the wolf comes with standard). But regardless; that most definitely doesn't make the powerfc *shit*. The powerfc is a barebones ecu with excellent specs that does an awesome job for a sub 1k price tag.

lol at the parmy.. There's a bloke who's created a website that reviews parmy's all over SA. lmao.

The microtech's injector drivers are suitable for both high and low imp injectors without a dropping resistor. The std ecu and powerfc does not. The PFC is a glorified (knock display, increased load points, faster processor) real time remappable std ecu.

lol and how is a powerfc shit? Sequential Injection, 6 coil drivers, closed loop, factory like drivability/coldstart etc, KNOCK DISPLAY. Can't go past the PFC for a streeter that may from time to time see inconsistent fuel and thousands of km's *see knock display*.

There's no dragstip in SA. Anzac Dragway (Highway) doesn't count. ---- Jacks me a little having the GTR in the banner background of the intro. ALL bar one GTR owner I know here in SA drives normal on the street. Hit Anzac dragway friday and sat nights and see who the real hoons are. LS1/LS2 Commodores, Turbo'd Buick 3.8 V6's in everything from VC commo's to Gemini's, 1jz's in 120y's to cressy's and now emerging shiet loads of XR6T's. The silvia's and skylines are rare to see out let alone hooning.

I've had some pretty good experiences with only 2 which were a little dodgy and didn't turn up initially. 'Luckly' I paid through paypal which removes $$ from the sellers account until the dispute is resolved. So.... I received my bits and they received their money.

It is possible to start and run the GTR low imp injectors on the rb20 remaped ecu or RB20 pfc without a resistor pack. BUT.... As rpms increase you most certianly stuff/overheat the injector drivers. Its a matter of WHEN not IF. First you will smell a little electrical burning smell then the car will die and you will be left stranded with a stuffed extremely rare rb20 pfc. Got a link to this thread on ns.com; keen to check it out?

Just be carefull. If you completely remove the bolts then slowly and carefully lift the turbine housing off you can't damage anything. Putting it back on; just be slow and make sure the turbine housing is central as not to smack the turbine wheel. Its near impossible not to ever so slightly touch the turbine wheel when putting it back on; just be slow and it won't dent or damage anything. I was a tad worried molesting the turbine housing on a nice expensive new turbo but that fear was maksed when I visualised the exhaust gas flowing smack in to 2 5mm lips and then crying because it made low power on the dyno.

Most definitely. Its easy enough to do. Just be slow and carefull when removing and installing the turbine housing in to position. I loosen all bolts then sit the turbo on its compressor cover then slowly lift the turbine housing upwards.

There was a thread a little while back where Sly33?? had his exh. std. manifold extrude honed. Flow was picked up and evened quite a bit. BUT if it shows as real world resuts has yet to be seen. When extrude honing first they port match and then they begin playing with the goo. Being port matchedinitially 'possibly' may reduce the cost of extrude process a touch. UAS do extrude honing.

Drop me a pm might bring it out for a light cruise.. Not tuned so don't want to give it a bootfull.