Cubes

Yeah on the 5th day friday I turned up at 11am and they still hadn't done anything. By 2pm I got a call saying it was done. They obviously just kept putting it off and off. So I'll just get Boostworx to do the work as he knew more about what's available for them than boss did (having done the nismo upgrades kits before); should have gone there from the start. So now to sweet talk the missus in to letting me spend $300 + labour on getting the diff repaired lol.

I'd say it is the tune. Mine is making 268rwkw on 15.5psi with a GT30 and has just returned 410km's to a tank (50litres) and that was with a heavy foot as you do when its just been tuned and you want to see what it goes like. I have the o2 sensor turned off. Its running the RB26 base ignition map and hasn't had the ignition tweaked for light load/cruise (load points 12+ have only been tweaked) Its running 15:1 up to load point 12 where it runs 13:1 during boost build. So only fuel has been tweaked; no ignition and its returning fairly decent economy considering how it has been driven.

lol; no. Which has reminded me; its time to update it. The blokes are Boostworx are top blokes; always done the right thing by me from the start so its well deserved. There's so so many workshops out there that simply do not give a sh*t.

It can't be tuned out as such; well not if running an AFM. I believe the HKS EIDS helps considerably. But not 100% as I haven't tried it.

Turbotech Ball/spring boost controller added.

Ring around the wrecker listing in the stickied threads. Prices will vary from ~$300 up to $500 for a vlsd. Some are complete rip offs charging $500 for a VLSD. Why not just shim yours? Buying a second hand clutch type LSD is hit and miss. Most often than not they need more $$ spent on them and by that time you may as well have bought a new kaaz for 1k and dropped it in your housing. I've learnt the hardway.

lol. Yes I've tried blocking off the hole but it still doesn't offer the same part throttle response as the bov lifts off as soon as it see's some boost. When I say part throttle Im talking about a part throttle but with a good 6-7psi; so 'brisk' part throttle almost hoon style acceleration. As with you... I have decided to trade off the noticeable improvement in torque when you grab that next gear because I simply cannot stand the popping and farting. I don't get stalling as I run a 4" inlet pipe between the turbo and afm.

No issues here in Adelaide with block strength. Jake 533rwkw 30psi which has run flat/low 9sec pass at the drags, Darren 470rwkw ~mid 20psi (stock bottom end) with water injection + a few others.

In the past I've had Boss Automotive shim the diff up. It was supposed to take a day which stretched out to 5days and then I get it and its still quite loose. I've spoken to Shaun at Boostworx so I'll get him to do the work.

I've driven one. Slow but handled well. Its still a hairdressers car. -- With regards to the question. The GTR is great; lots of grip and is very quick with lots of power. BUT would that not get boaring? A GTT punching out a reasonable amount of power has less grip and would require a lot of work, thinking and driving to make the setup quick. But would that get a little tiring? I think I'd almost rather the challenge of getting the car setup better, improving my skills etc. If I were to push 400rwkw odd I think yes.. I probably would look at the GTR as 400rwkw through the GTST become a little frustrating as it attempts to wag its tail at 160km/h+ in a straight line. IF I were to push any more than 300rwkw I would most definitely look at dropping the 3ltr in to it. The smaller motors simply lack the spool capability for the big turbo's; as a result become very peak and lack that mid range fun that makes a car feel quick. Who wants a car that doesn't get up and go until 3rd+ gear? Not me. After all its all about the driving experience right?

ok I've narrowed down 2 rpm switches. There's no point building one myself from scratch as I don't have the time to build kits. I've came across a MSD Window switch that is suitable and ~$100 USD + delivery. ~$140ish delivered Another is not as fancy but considerably cheaper at $39-$49 USD + delivery. I'll update once once I hear back from the second option.

I only hear a slight buzz from my intank 044. When the pump was external it was loudish in the cabin. Internal ftw. If your fitting the 044 intank of the R32 GTST you have to head down the local pirtek and grab a couple of appropriate fittings and then shove them on the lathe to machine the top fitting down to 5/16" and the bottom to suit the sock. A couple of hose clamps and suitable rubber to secure the pump and your laughing. R33's.. They fit easy. Much deeper tank.

Gauges differ. Cam timing.

Champ! I've checked out the nismo online shop but its not in english. :S Where did you price them up from? Aus Nissan or Nismo Japan?

The Nissan friction discs and plates are available but at a cost of ~$120 each. :S I will price up the nismo clutch pack tomorrow. Fingers crossed its ~$300 odd like some one suggested in another thread.

lmao at the hairdressers car. Its funny because its true. I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed commodore when it was 3years old. A few mods and it was pushing out a little under 200rwkw. Then went the gearbox, got that fixed a week later went the diff and shortly after that the IRS subframe cracked resulting in 45degree neg camber and the arse end of the car sitting on the ground. And lets not talk about rattles behind the dash and power steer pump failures That thing drove me insane. The old R32 GTST has been 10fold more reliable.

hehe an oooooooold quote. You really need to not theorise and give it a go. Grab a coke can and cut out a gasket then block off your std bov. Take it for a drive and you will INSTANTLY notice driving briskly off the lights at part throttle when you grab that next gear the car just picks up and goes; there's no slight delay like there is with the bov connected. Take it for a brisk spin through the hills; corner exit where your controlling throttle/traction as the road straightens up plant that foot and feel the instant torque. Having to refill the ic pipes with air in this instance clearly is worse than having the compressor's speed slow slightly. What you have said sounds like the theory will follow through in practice but it just doesn't. Really.. Give it a go just so you can go wow, It feels great at part throttle but sh*t I hate that farting, popping and jerking. I really do like the improved 'response' no bov offers when grabbing that next gear under brisk driving conditions.BUT I just can't stand the popping and farting. I'm having the bov reconnected. ------- It would be interesting to plumb in a boost gauge to the IC piping to see exactly what boost levels the turbo experiences when jumping off the throttle. I haven't known of any no bov related failures. Only tuning related or owner related where they have slipped up with an incorrect toluene mixture that resulted in detonation causing stuffed big ends and ring lands.

Diff Center Sold Pending Payment Bump!

Nothing better than single legging it.

I'd buy a commodore.

Sorry bud. I thought you said in a pm after it was all back together you read you had to bleed the lifters?

Stumbled upon this... Nismo R200 CLSD part break down and numbers http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...ficial%26sa%3DN and for the Nismo Disc kit part numbers!! 45 ft/lbs - 3843S-RS650 75 ft/lbs - 3843S-RS651 Apparently the nismo friction discs/plates are smooth where as the street friction discs/plates are grooved. The reason for smooth vs grooved????? The grooved discs/plates hold more oil offering a smoother chatter free operation? Or do they provide increased friction as the std diffs run less friction plates? The nismo smooth plates are apparently cheaper than the nissan grooved plates. ---- The Nismo 45 ft-lbs plate arrangement Spring Plate Spring Disc Friction Plate Friction Disc Friction Plate Friction Disc The Nismo 75 ft-lbs plate arrangement is strange. Is there any problem with the following arrangement? Essentially they replace a friction plate with a spring disc. Seems a little strange; I guess its an easy way to increase breakaway without shimming. Spring Plate Spring Disc Spring Plate Friction Disc Friction Plate Friction Disc I'll probably do the following for both sides. Remove the spacer Spring Plate (reuse old) Spring Disc (reuse old - hopefully its tabs are intact) Friction Plate (reuse old) Friction Disc (new - tabs are most likely smashed) Friction Plate (reuse old) Friction Disc (new - tabs are most likely smashed) That gives me one additional friction disk that holds on to the axle distributing the power over 3 discs vs 2 for each axle. As there's more discs it also provides increased friction (locking action) once your on the throttle and the pressure rings have spread. So tighter stronger diff. I'll most likely buy the 2 slightly thicker 1.85mm (vs 1.75mm) for each side as they are cheaper and will help reduce the amount I have to shim the diff up. Unsure if there's any problem shimming up ~1.5mm each side; maybe machine down the original spacer; I will have to speak to the diff man! Get it up to ~75-80 ft-lbs breakaway and it should hold on quite nicely. Thinking back I know when the diff got smashed. Powering on in third gear ~4500rpm it starts to loose a little traction, arse end sits down grabbed really hard nose lifted, one wheel broke traction a little then grabbed hard again. Then after that it was a constant single left wheeler.

Good stuff Duncan. Just what I want to hear. What breakaway do you run in the racecar?

ahh ok.. I've only had this diff in the car a month. Had it pulled apart inspected and shimmed; was told it was in perfect nick. Still open wheeled in first and second, only had it twin up in second once or twice, third was good mose of the time but occasionally would buzz one wheel. Told the bloke who did the work; he said to drive it around and enjoy the car a little more and drop it in a little later. So now its 10000% stuffed from taking it for a drive after it was tuned. No burnouts no drags etc. Just rolling on the throttle. I've been told the GTR clsd's are pretty weak if you let them open wheel. Apparently they rip the lugs off the friction/clutch plates or something.

Thanks bud. Do the Nissan CLSD's only tend to break if you have them open wheeling? Never break just from power/torque so to speak? What do you GTR blokes do? Aftermarket or the stocker is good enough and as a result rebuild?