Cubes

Labour is always the killer with engine conversions; especially ones that require loom swaps. :S If you have the tools, shed and a few $$ to outlay on an engine crane give it a crack yourself. You'll eventually get it done.

Get a torch and look for any shiny bits inside the ports or anywhere inside the motor. My experience with an old 250 ford motor when I was 16 (I did a similar thing) has been a vac cleaner does very little to suck anything out of the ports unless a valve is open where it is able to create a little turbulence that picks the metal up. Good luck.

The RB30 SOHC's with the turbo pump still have issues with a little too much oil in the head at high rev's (7000rpm).

Sydneykid made a little table some time ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2201542 I was a little skeptical of his recommendation for the R32 RB25DE head but closed my eye's blocked off the rear and installed a 1.5mm restrictor up front. Works exceptionally well; still plenty of oil flicking around in the head; never does it start to fill past the buckets like std restrictors do. Before the restrictor and blocked rear oil would pool around the buckets on idle; after a hard 6000rpm+ run there was noticeable filling within the cam covers. On idle the oil level would drop to ~1/4 up from the low. After the restrictor mod on idle the oil level sits up around the 3/4 mark so lots more oil sitting in the sump where it should be. Preventing surge is the real reason for the mod not because you fill the catch can. I never had oil floating around apart from once when rev's were held at 6000rpm+ for an extended period of time. I removed the oil filler and could oil half way up the base circle. :S Very dangerous. So BAM33; becareful if you take it around your local track or hold high rev's. Overfill the sump to prevent surge. Do remember R33 Rb25DET's run 2 x 1.5mm restrictors standard where as the RB30's run 1.8's. So combine that with a high pressure pump and its not a good thing. --- I built my motor right near the beginning of this thread when JUN collars were $600+ and little talk of it being essential. I have kept the rev limit @ 7000rpm and with an RB25/GTR pump (same thing) nothings broke YET. Its done *ouch* 68,000km's. :S Bores still look excellent; compression is still spot on as it was once it was run in. No blowby in to the catch cans (I run one either side).

What have you done with regards to oil restrictors? The N1 pump with std restrictors is a bad thing.

They don't know a lot about anything. I bought a 3yr old VS 5ltr 5speed some years ago; had it RAA inspected only to discover within a week of owning the car it had loose engine mounts, water running down the side of the block due to a leaky inlet manifold, minor chassis rail damage of which wasn't mentioned on the report and an incorrectly installed tail shaft centre bearing which caused vibrations and thumping on acceleration.

Yes I got it arse about.

CEF11E, I bought a 27mm socket and used the breaker bar; it was on damn tight I can't see you removing it without the motor being in the car with a gearbox hooked up. I have used a rattle gun in the past; worked well but it does have to have some balls behind it. When I dropped the RB30DET in I removed the rb20det with gearbox attached; bolted the gearbox to the rb30det and slid it in. This was done over a pit which made life a lot easier. Radiator was obviously out and had a piece of wood protecting the a/c condenser. 10mins max and the motor was in position. Ahh exciting times it was. 2GUUP, I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more. To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place. BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up.

The problem is the + feed; earthing to the chassis does increase voltage slightly but when the pump is working hard against high fuel pressure (base pressure + boost pressure) voltage drops as the std wiring cannot handle the current draw.

So you need a boost controller to run 12psi? :S I was able to run that as std boost. I'd definitely say you have a loose gate if that's the case. Mine ran 1-1.1bar for ~110,000km's. Then ran std boost (peak 12psi) that tapered off to 9psi due to the larger motor for another 20,000km's. Turbo came off still felt fine; no unusual shaft play. But that's not to say yours wouldn't pop though.

Loosen the bolts slightly; connect the actuator arm to the wastegate. Shove a big arsed screw driver inbetween the comp cover and actuator. Lever the actuator away from the turbo (actuator to the front of the car) and nip up the bolts. Then drive carefully and see what boost your running, pull over slightly adjust and see again. I ended up marking the actuator rod where it enters the actuator for easier rough adjustment. From memory mine required ~5mm preload for ~1bar.

savage GTR, So you were around in the early to mid 90's when the burnout car park at the of anzac highway was open? Directly at the end of anzac high way where the round about now exists? People would some times drop a little oil but regardless there was always burnouts. Everything seemed just so much more busy back then with old tubbed V8 LJ's cruising down anzacs. As you said.. midnight would approach and the police would walk over from the cop shop; shut the car park down and defect. lol Nothing has really changed since then; they still had the defects on Rundle and Hindley street.

If you want cheap 225/50 16 tyres THE BEST tyre I have found are the Federal 535. They are an excellent all round tyre. They are directional and very good in the wet and pretty damn good in the dry also.

Mine used to be near the door hinge when you open the door. Seen them in that location on some of the newer nissans also. Wonder if they get anal about the location of the placard.

Where do you get the tyre card from? Nissan? Mine was removed when the car was sprayed.

Those of you with GTR's and or using GTR looms. The knock sensors. GTR GTST The GTR knock sensors don't screw in to the RB30 block as the thread dia of the GTR's bolt is too small. What have you done/easiest way to sort the issue? Brass piece chopped off and then drill/tap that brass piece to suit the GTR knock sensor bolt? Or isn't there enough meat/difference in thread size to do such a thing?

I'll thank a couple of different wreckers for that incorrect information. Cheers for the heads up. How much can you get the new sensors for? I know the sensors you are talking of as I've seen them on a lot of the newer nissans and sr20dets. The 90's maxima's run them also. BMW's almost everything. So I have 4 knock sensors to suit an rb20/25. :S

Most of the people I know have been defected when driving to the shops and back. :S Just a random pull over. I was pulled over driving to Marion shopping centre. Just as I turned left off diagonal road on to Marion road (which is right on the corner of Marion shopping centre) a defect station was setup on both sides of the road. Both traffic lanes were stopped, I was 3 cars back in the right lane ready to turn in to Marion, the police officer walked past the 3 cars and told me to pull over. :S Luckily it was only tint on the front windows he was worried about so that came off quick smart and kept him happy. :S

I elongated the bolt up hole (top hole only required) on my rb20 actuator. Big screwdriver to push the actuator towards the front of the engine bay (away from the turbine housing) to apply as much preload as you wish then tighten up the actuator bolts. Takes little adjusting but with no boost controller I had mine running ~15-16psi for quite a few years using that method. Also didn't drop boost. It worked so well that I sold my Blitz SBC-iD III EBC which I now regret doing with my current setup.

My R32 Rb25de head cc'd up at 62.2cc's. Unsure of the rb20det.

Metro sexual is the word.

Sorry bud the boost controller is taken. However, I have seen this boost controller holding 18psi on a mates external gate GT35r .82 setup. As for internal gate it held 17.5psi on my own and it dropped peak spool from ~4200rpm to 3300rpm but given the actuator is quite lazy cracking the flap off the seat way too early and too much. On the old stock turbo the spool improvement was very much noticeable. I've decided on a programmable rpm vs boost controller as 19psi odd at 3300rpm isn't all that streetable.

Bugger. I guess it comes down to how well they know the cars. :S Next time its on the dyno I might pull them out and see exactly how much black mist its pushing out and then decide if I will 100% plumb them back in or not. Last time I couldn't see anything but might be worth taking a better look. There's no oil but that doesn't mean there's no mist oil shit that doesn't get caught by the catch can setup. As for next dyno.. It appears the gtr cam regrinds pick up around 20-25rwkw's so I'll definitely take that route. I can't see mine making 290-295rwkw on 15-16psi of boost though. Would be nice but.

When you say plumbed in do they use torches to check its plumbed in to the inlet pipe? Mine looks as if its all plumbed in but isn't down at the afm to turbo pipe which can't be seen anyway. The bov is blocked using the old coke can trick. lol. My only real concern is with the catch can setup I have. I have T'd into the cam cover to plenum hose and run a pipe directly down in to a catch can under the inlet manifold. The PCV is blocked but looks like its connected. The passenger side cam cover's breather uses the std piping route to the inlet pipe but again isn't connected instead routing to another catch can. Its all using the std nissan hose clamps, brass t piece is smoothed and painted black so doesn't really stand out. Time will tell I guess. ----- webng, The insurance companies are all good with modifications but they 'assume' the mods you have are adr approved. That being its on your back to have them engineered. If not well when push comes to shove..... Your shoved out the door.

Dan. Having not been through a defect station with mine.. How hard do they look for shit?