Cubes

The toyota turn out was a little poor.. A heap of 70-low 100rwkw toyota's with one that cracked 160 something rwkw. I picked up second spot with darren picking up first with a massive boost leak. rbmans had dropped boost to 12psi and Im certain mine is valve springs arg.. the joys.

Rad clean & system flush. Have the viscous clutch fan checked out while you are there.

You sure you want it? It makes some fully hektic dose noises and shit.

Don't use speedtests.. Dload a file from a known fast mirror and take note of what the dload speed is. 125kbytesps sucks

Ignore speed tests they are a load of crap. Dload from a mirror to find out your true dload speed. That speed test reads lower than what I really dload at by approx 50-80kbytes/s. Remember you do have a 30day trial if you like to call it that.

Yep Im stoked with mine. Makes its peak at 6000rpm but easily rev's to 7000rpm with no noticeable drop in power. just keeps screaming.

lmao funny as.. I'd definitely leave a little note in the ash tray or something stating please lock the car once you have finished stealing what ever you find. lol

Got dyno sheet? I'd be able to work it out from that knowing your 4.11 diff ratio and tyre size. Curious where it made its peak. I'd expect some where around 7000rpm? Holds well to 7500rpm where you change up?

Have you considered Spray on ACL Hylomar? I use it on everything; excellent stuff.

Sounds much like mine Sinista. I saw 285rwkw on 17.5psi but it was spiking and not holding boost due to the bleeder not working well with the int gate 1bar actuator. + there was a suspected spark issue with my siliconed coil packs lol. Curious at what RPM is it making peak power?

Register your interest in the following thread SAU'ers otherwise this dyno day may be cancelled. They 'need' to know if they have got enough numbers. http://www.toyotacarclub.net/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1186751226

It starts at 10am and finishes up at apparently 5pm. Register with the www.toyotacarclub.net forums and then proceeded to register your intent to run with the details of your car (brand, make, model) at the following link. http://www.toyotacarclub.net/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1186751226 Doing so enables you to get the dyno run for $35 vs $40.

Cheers Simon. So you run absolutely no subframe bush? What keeps the top pineapple centred as the centre hole is greater than that of the stud. The Noltec bushes are very solid; absolutely no movement on the dyno where as prior I watched the subframe pull forward and the tyre nudge close to the front of the inner guard.

Who has ran one of these with a 1bar actuator? I had mine on the dyno with it and when it had absolutely no preload on the ball so I could freely blow through the bottom the lowest boost level I was able to achieve was ~19psi. Boost was then tailing off to 17.5psi; I assume due to not enough preload causing it to operate like a traditional bleeder. On the std rb20 and rb25 actuators it was rock solid; held boost perfectly. On a mates external gate setup with an 8psi spring it too was rock solid; just didn't like my stiff wastegate. :S Im assuming the hole drilled was a tad too big and bleeding too much off.

I drove a mates GTR with a tight nismo center in it a few days ago. VERY VERY nice diff I must say; regardless of its steeper ramp angles it was still easy to throw a u-turn without it locking and shuddering. Slight more throttle and it was wobbling the rear and grating the inside tyre. The Nismo GT Pro's are MUCH MUCH more aggressive; you have to basically clutch it otherwise it clunks and bangs with the slightest throttle input; not all that good for parking or when mr policemen are around. Nismo Upgrade Clutch pack FTW. ----- 9krpm, I'm a little way off and spent a few $$ on a new gearbox. One thing after another; the joys of a modified car. If only the diff would completely break so I would then have an excuse to use for the missues. lol I'm looking at 2-3weeks away to muster up some pocket money lol for the nismo upgrade pack.

If its a true 30-40degree's then once you touch the accel and it pushes in another 25degree's advance that would be a total of 65degree's advance and you would definitely feel both the lack of power and hear the exhaust as it slightly misses. Idling on much more than 20degree's idle becomes rough and it begins to have a slight half miss/pop. If your cam timing is correct set the bolt centred with respect to the cas and that is approx 15-20degree's advance. If you have to dial in what looks like excessive advance or retard (hence not near centre) then your cam timing is out. Have a play you will learn to hear how advanced or retarded it is running. A few tell tale signs are how smooth the car is running, idles lower, idles higher, does it pop/have a slight miss & the note of the exhaust.

4,878 reads of the WTB thread is a fair amount considering the number of SA members. Just depends if someone has what you want. Best bet for a decent price might be wreckers like Adelaide Jap, Adelaide Import Spares etc... Have a look at the wrecker listing and ring every single one to find the cheapest. lol There's some out there who I won't mention that are complete rip offs with the prices they charge.

A tube of ultrablue costs more. Buy a gasket from Nissan; they are only $10. I also spray hylomar on the gaskets as when pulling things apart next time they come apart without breaking + it helps prevent any leaks.

If its reading 30-40degree's then double looping the wire tends to get the ignition read out correct; its timing light related. If it reads 15degree's off the bat, the cas is in its usual position and the car is idling nice its 15degree's not 7/8. 30-40degree's on idle with the car idling well is impossible. Its simply timing light related. Don't worry about it if yours isn't reading 30-40degree's.

hame, this isn't a forsale thread. Jump on ebay, search for turbotech and buy one.

You've misunderstood. You'd know about it if you set yours to 7degree's. Then again you might not if your not familiar with how your car runs.

Cheers Trent.. How do you take the rake measurement? Is it simply; the front sits 20mm away more from the chassis compared to the rear? The subframe bushes I have (GTR) are 12mm too tall; so I'll be chopping 12mm off the rear subframe bushes and a little less off the front to give the desired rake. What would you recommend? As it is the nuts get on the stud approx 3/4 of their thread so not ideal. How do you get 40mm? I assume you run modified studs? --- Anyway thanks Trent and Salad. I'll chop the rears first and see how it feels.

Hey ppls, Any one taken note of how much the pineapples space the front of the subframe down when they are setup for traction? Im about to cut my GTR subframe bushes down to GTST height so wouldn't mind shoving a little angle in to the cradle while I'm there. Save me the purchase of a set of pineapples also.

The rb20 heads are tough as.. When I first bought my car years ago I unknowingly (due to a faulty temp sensor) had it running upwards of 120degree's for a whole summer. The temp gauge when the sender was fixed would sit on the H rock solid. And I wondered why it would spit water out in traffic lol. How the car was fine I still have no idea; it went on to run another 100,000km's before I pulled the motor out; still making great power, excellent compression etc.

Manual boost controllers work MUCH MUCH better with ext gates than int gate turbo's. A mates ext gate setup with my turbo tech was perfect held what ever we pushed in; bolted the same turbo tech on to my IW setup and it wouldn't hold any more than 17.5psi.