Cubes

Block it off using a gasket cut out of a coke can.

Thats exactly what I figured. It did appear to fix the occasional lean issue I was having.

Unless its an R32 Rb25 then it looks identical to the rb20.

Mine idles baby smooth with a 0.9mm+ gap; as soon as I drop to 0.8mm and less it has an ever so slight pop on idle. The old rb20det required a 1mm gap other wise it had a slight pop. Another fix is to richen up the mixture to 14:1 on idle (well it sorts it for mine). I've left the idle lean as the slight pop/miss doesn't bother me.

The hesitation will most likely be something to do with possible vac leaks OR accel pump settings. The running on 5; mine used to do that when the coils were stuffed first thing in the morning; possibly moisture used to get in them. While your there check the ignitor for cracks around the top lip; if there is ensure its nice and dry and silicon the ridge up. The stalling/hunt; AAC valve, get it all cleaned up before the next tune. To clean the AAC pull it off; remove the solenoid and soak it in petrol/carby clean or something. Move the spring in and out unscrew the idle adjust screw etc and ensure there's no gummy stuff inside.

I think some of you have misunderstood. The way I understood what Beer Baron said was: With the larger slave cylinder you decrease clutch movement for a given pedal movement which results in a lighter pedal (due to increased leverage) but also less clutch travel. Reduce clutch travel and the take up point will be super close to the max pedal movement (i.e the floor); which can be a bad thing depending how close the take up point is to the floor as it can increase the frequency of missed gears or crunching when shifting fast.

Use a rwd Rb20 or if you can't track one of those down an rb30e sump.

The one I saw was definitely a v8 of sorts. Whats this h1 h2 h3. I might have a bit of a google.

lol I saw one of these cruising along trying to drag anything in sight. For such a big car it actually went pretty damn well. Big arsed black thing; had a real nice note to the exhaust also. The pictures dont do their size justice; they look awesome in the flesh.

Checked CAS? I've seen them be fine at low rpm; get the rev's up and they clag up.

If its the R32 RB25DE then there's no way you can tell the difference without pulling the motor apart. They look 'identical'.

Regarding valves. No difference. Rb26 valves are a bee's dick larger; unless you pick them up cheap I don't believe its worth while. Spend the $$ on a usual clean up with a valve deshroud + some cams and you will be miles ahead.

It can be difficult to see; you really need to look down the side of the coil and a little underneath. They don't spark on top.

n/a box's are near identical to the rb20t box; the turbo box is near the same as a r33 box.

Its quite a large nut/stud so just use a breaker bar to do it up as tight as you can. Its a locking nut but I still use a dab of lock tight as I do on everything.

268rwkw my 9puk died in less than 2 weeks :S

Arse holes. You would remember their face? There's another use for a kill switch.

Which VL box? The N/A or the VLT?

I went from stock to HD organic then to XHD 9puk. The XHD felt 2x the weight of the HD and the HD was basically the same as stock. I'm very keen to see how this GTR exedy pressure plate stacks up as I believe its up around 1500kg vs the 1180kg of the XHD I bought back in late 04.

You can get the gtr/r33 gtst slave rebuilt for around 40-45. I'd probably prefer to pay $80-90 for a new nissan slave; replace it once it will last another 100-200 thousand.

Thats a joke.. Move to a different ISP the first change you get... www.internode.on.net www.adam.com.au Both top ISP's with reasonable pricing.

Interesting.. I drove a mates OS twin and found the pedal lighter than my single and had a more progressive/smoother take up. Yes the take up was super quick and was easy to stall but I found it easier to drive than my at the time new 9puk Xtreme XHD. As the 9puk got to half its life it was almost like a normal organic clutch in its feel where as the OS is still nice tight and grippy.

Easy to remove.

You have it arse about. If its leaking inside the cabin its the master cylinder. You check if the slave is leaking by lifting the boot on the slave cylinder. I've replaced mine with aftermarket items in the past. The slave has been good and cost me $38. I tend to go through an aftermarket master cylinder once every 1-1.5years or approx 30,000km's. The master cylinders are ~$75. With a std clutch the aftermarket would probably be fine; I run a clutch that feels like the brake pedal. :S

Do bare in mind it is the minority of police that spoil it for the majority. If it were the majority every cop you see would be pulling us over and defecting for mods due to lack of knowledge. Which is why if the car gets defected for an imaginary modification you must make an official complaint. ------ Was your pod filter secured? or was it flapping around?