Cubes

The nismo diff you have is basically just an uprated factory GTR type LSD. It should be fairly smooth operating; light throttle it won't lock/clunk and skip. I.e roundabouts car parks etc. They are THE best street LSD in my opinion as they are so smooth and streetable. You can buy the upgrade clutch packs from Nismo and slap them in the GTR diff. I believe Nengun also sell these. They are super smooth on light/cruise throttle; give it just that little bit more throttle and it will lock nicely and send a little shudder/skip feel through the car. So really easy to drive around police. If it clunks/chatter at light throttle change the oil and or push an lsd additive in to it as they are not supposed too. I remember a while back redline wasn't that crash hot in CLSD's as they clunked. I think I read that here and on a Ford forum. Great for gearbox's not that crash hot for diffs. The Castrol full synth oil SAF-XA is good and already has the LSD friction modifier in it. I believe the Redline doesn't have the friction modifier in it and requires redlines additive for the operation to be smooth. So possibly just add some of redlines friction modifier. Or head down to ford and see if they still stock the ford additive. Just don't add too much; slowly increase the dose.

Did you do yours or did shaun lower it? Looking at yours its definitely sitting lower than mine. As salad said to me.. Grab a bit of plate cut it to shape and space the swaybar chassis mounts down slightly so the aftermarket bar fits. using the rb20det sump provides more clearance around the sway bar area.

ahh really thats a load of shit. Whats the point of RAA if you can't use them if you clip a gutter or something. But in saying that My sister clipped a gutter a couple of years back and had no issues with them towing it. Maybe policy has changed. No idea on the tow to workshop then.

Bugger.. I would be inclined to take it to a workshop and have repaired. Workshops (looks at sig) are more familiar with where to find parts and get them at a better price than the average suspension shop who deals mainly with the aussy cars. Exactly what damage has been done? Any chance you can pull the wheel off and grab a few pics of damage? Join up with RAA and get it towed for repairs. Shaun at boostworx charges reasonable might be worth a look.

Yes.. On a perfectly smooth road it would wander around slightly; jumping off the throttle would have it feel like it darted to the right slightly. Give it a boot full on a road that is uneven and you could really feel the rear end steering the car requiring lots of steering input. My subframe bushes were exceptionally bad; the two fronts were leaking excessively. I fixed the subframe bushes and now the hicas rack has decided its had enough and its time to throw a lock bar on it. I can jack the car up and wiggle the back wheels side to side excessively; within the last couple of days it feels like the subframe bush problem is back. Feels near identical but doesn't seem to dart around when getting on or off the throttle suddenly as the buggered subframe bushes did. Unsure if you blokes have CBC (consolidated bearing company) over there but they seem to think they have rose joint rack ends suitable for the R32 GTST rear. I'll pull mine off over the next week or so and see if what they have matches up.

When my subframe bushes were nacked the car would steer from the rear on acceleration which was extremely noticeable when coming off the throttle. It would also grab every line in the road from the rear when accelerating. It felt rather unstable mid corner and always required corrections to hold the line. It felt nervous. If you wish to dial in any cradle rake grab the GTR subframe bushes and chop them down accordingly. The bushes Noltec list for the R32 GTS are incorrect; you require the ones that are shorter and for the life of me I can't find the part number. :S Thanks for your PM you'll be hearing from me shortly.

hahah I know how much you love RICE!

Ext gates/screamers are rice as are painted blue radiator holders! IW FTW!!!

Fields83, You have brought up a few good points.. Madaz what were you charged to replace the clutch in your GTS4? Not including the cost of the clutch. Not having tackled an AWD clutch you would have to be careful time spent on the hoist doesn't blow out. It may not be worth the hassle for such a small saving. Have you discussed such scenario's fieds83? Have you considered charging x for a gearbox swap or y for a diff in/out? This would no doubt be open to abuse; i.e slackers or blokes that speak as many words per day as women. Or possibly only a perk offered to those you have built a relationship with through previous use of your services? $35 per hour hoist use probably wouldn't be too bad for those that know their car and know what they are doing. You could drop the gearbox, lower the car and push it off to storage area while you had the flywheel aligned etc. For such a scenario what would you consider a reasonable price for storage etc? Say it takes 1-2hrs to remove the box and 1-2hrs to install. Worse case 4hrs hoist time. So $140 + hoist/tool hire + storage time hire while the flywheel gets machined. As you can see there's not a great saving compared to having the local reputable workshop do a clutch install for $250-$300. Its definitely a touch and go business to invest $$ with as those that do their sums of how long something would take them may think.. bugger it; its only another $50-$150 to get some one else to do the work.

Dan... I believe it was an int. gate screamer as he said it was a GT2535 or GT2530 can't remember. Ext gate screamers definitely sound better but still had a reasonable note to it. gtrkeit, Pitty as it was a brisk but easy going. i.e no hard accelerating or braking. Just brisk. He must have left as I don't remember seeing him at windy's.

$280 for a day/8hrs. How would it work for storage of the car while waiting on parts or repairs? Would that include full use of all tools and facilities? i.e gearbox lifts, rattle guns, welders etc Even with the use of a gearbox lift $35 for myself is a tad steep as the only items could do with a hoist is the gearbox, diff and subframe. Currently I work on the car by myself with it on jack stands. I find it quite easy. Gearbox: 2 hydraulic jacks, rope to tie the rear of the gearbox to the jack so it doesn't slip off when rotating the box to clear the starter lump lift in to position and clunk and its in. Providing you got the clutch alignment correct. Diff: You can get it out within an hour using a piece of rope to lower/lift the diff in position with some ratchet ringys. Subframe: Super easy in and out within 1-2hrs; couple of jacks, remove the brakes, tail shaft and earth wire. Remove 4 bolts and lower the subframe down; then slide it out. If your replacing subframe bushes add another hour or two. In the past I've always worked from a pit which; while it is easy as your standing lifting the gearbox is a pain in the arse and more difficult to work on the car by your self; a gearbox swap or clutch change on the ground with jack stands is MUCH easier to do when your by yourself. So for myself owning a RWD GTST. Likely no as doing it on the ground with jack stands is actually quite easy providing you put some thought in to it. That won't stop me buying a s/h hoist and gearbox lift in the future. Which is what I assume you have done?

Screamers definitely give them that angry sound.

Was a good easy going cruise. Good to put some names to faces.

Damn Im hungry.. That sig of yours isn't helping heslo.

Give it a week or two. You'll be used to it and wanting more.

Increase grip.

Skyhy, I recently had mine tuned up and came across the same funny little dips. As we wound the boost up those dips got much worse and killed power. Another thing noted was as the dips got worse a lot of unburnt fuel was floating around which instantly made me start thinking ignition. At the same time the clutch began slipping 'slightly' which later got much worse. I now have a good clutch in the car its amazing how more power wasn't getting to the back wheels. I've got a few things that are to be sorted. 1. 450x280x90 FMIC with 2.25" inlet outlets.. Tad on the small side for the power So decent fmic 2. Spark plugs came out looking a tad hot. So NGK 7's in they go 3. I've been told to try NGK R5671A-7 as they position the spark in a slightly different position which prevents the spark being blown out. Apparently. Fingers crossed the little dips disappear.

Its all good then.. Much like myself.

Nissan are not silly they use grease for a reason.

Very nice. Hows it hook up? Forced to get around on semi's for the daily? But why do you want to attend a ricer cruise? To show a few of them up lol or u used to own one or?

There is conductive and non-conductive silicon. Use the general automotive non-conductive silicon (grey, blue etc)

Ahh ok yeah they do R12a.

DONE!

Rip your std bov off and block its bleed hole off. OR do the coke can block the bov off trick to see if it helps it hold boost. Saves you wasting $$ on a problem that may not be related to the bov.

Simon.. Was it a manual tail shaft you had or the old auto one?? Definitely strange how a few don't need shortening yet yours and others have. So the 20t shifter does bolt up? I might try and track one down with a good boot. The 25t gearbox with its longer throw gives it that VLT 5speed feel.