Cubes

Yeah I do agree with Ash. The bottom end will eventually go but I was factoring in that when it does go (hopefully not bottom end bearings as they can also take the turbo with it) you would simply rebuild it. 300rwkw is fairly useless on the street and without spending lots on really good tyres its a little dangerous especially in third gear if you overtake on the open road etc. Mines no quicker to 100km/h from a standing start than a 200rwkw r33 gtst. Without spending lots of tyres I can't see mine hooking up all that well. But its fun and won't be 'just' a street car anyway.

Best bet is if you do the work yourself: Thicker headgasket drop it to ~8.5:1 comp. ~$300 While the heads off block the rear oil restrictor ~$2 GT30r .6 ~$1800 Oil/water lines ~$200 Dump - $300 Inlet - $50-$180 10mm Spacer - $30 Carbide bur used for port matching $30-$40 256 or 260 Cams ~$750 Spool Cam gears ~$170 VRS kit ~$300 And a good tune. ~$400 Total $4472. Then price up what its worth the replace valve stem seals and get a valve grind done. Maybe consider a little head work, just a tidy up they respond well to it, get seat pressure up at least 50pounds. Ideally you want around 70-80lbs, that can only be achieved with aftermarket springs. QLD performance springs ~$300. And on it goes.. snowballs. If you don't wish to go cams you'll need the GT30 .8 rear to get close. You'll then need a good clutch. I can recommend the GTR 4puk Exedy from Kudos; awesome clutch, drive ability is great, pedal weight is great and it grabs hard. They are a little over $700 but well worth it. Thats IMO your best bet to get it and keep it reliable on a stock bottom end with pump fuel. Some tuners are able to get a stock untouched motor reliable at 400rwhp but there's a hell of a lot that can't and break ring lands. Best to play it safe and drop the static comp .5 of a point and not worry about it. Especially as .5 of a point you won't notice. While its off take the opportunity to block the rear heads oil restrictor of which keeps more oil in the sump and prevents surge and oil floating around the inlet pipes.

lol yeah its most likely that. Be 100000% sure its not Water. Oil has a completely different density/look/smell and hangs around where as water disperses much quicker.

Cams, lifters, springs removed replace valve stems. As for what else needs or should be done really depends on what your long term goals are. If the motors been 'built' give the head a complete reco maybe a little port work while its off, a set of performance springs valve springs and then its ready to drop a set of nice cams in it with 20-25psi of boost.

lmfao. I'm with Dan on this.. Situation surrounding as if you go back. hahah. At least if there's a next time and you get asked why you ran or didn't go back you can share this wonderfull experience of people being kicked etc for no valid reason. Well lesson learnt. But what did you or others actually do?

Hey ppls, Thought I'd throw this out to some of you that have had a bit of experience playing with cams. Deciding on cams for the car; hope to have them in within a couple of weeks. 1. 254duration 8.5mm lift of which I've seen pick up 26rwkw on 1psi less boost up with power up around 250rwkw and it lost no bottom end, holds power after peak much better and interestingly an improvement in fuel economy. 2. 265duration 8.9mm lift cams. Its an RB30DET, GT30r .82. The heads had a little work done to it, usual port polish/multi angle valve jobs, valve deshroud and is currently making close to 270rwkw on 1bar. Std inlet manifold, std exhaust manifold of which I wish to retain. The car is daily driven as I wish to enjoy it daily. Currently returns 450km's to a tank of juice and scrapes 400km's if I give it a bit of stick. The bloke tuning the car has said 265duration FTW as its a 3ltr and it will soak it up fine. I've seen the 254's return good gains so Im in two minds if I should or not as I wish to retain the std exh manifold and later down the track drop a WMI kit on it to see what I can squeeze out of it for a stock looking motor. So who's had a play with similiar cam specs? What were the gains/losses fuel economy idle quality etc? I wouldn't mind a bit of that horn RB lope. Any of you have rough comparison dyno runs before/after the cams?

Awesome result. Very impressed. Makes me wonder how it would feel to drive such a thing.

I did wonder how you managed to get the car painted up with a good set of wheels etc on it.

I'd assume so. The one I looked at had R31/R32/R33/VLT on the box.

Andrew, Sorry Ash.. but Andrew yeah its the n/a fan. The RB30e N/A hub and fan can't be interchanged with the 8blade VLT/R31/R32/R33 etc Fan/hub. Simply won't fit. --- I'll be trying a set of thermo's again once this hub starts to leak. I wouldn't mind pulling the rad out taking it to a wrecker and trying to match something up out of a fwd nissan thing. No doubt something will match and cool sufficiently. Years ago I ran 2x12" fans directly on the rad without a shroud, it was fine in weather like now but as soon as it reached over 35degree's amb with the a/c on and in traffic for 30mins+ the temp would creep and not stop. :S

lol. Push in a little cradle rake. I've got ~12mm and its helped considerably. It gives you a little more feel and improved throttle control. Then.. Better or new tyres. Mine are down to 1/4 and are noticeably slipperier compared to when they were fresh. I've ran a set of cheap Nankang NS2 245/40/18's and they were considerably worse both in the wet and dry than a set of cheap 225/50/16 Federal 535's. You may have to dial out a little boost around the 3000rpm range. When mine was making up around 19psi at 3000rpm at 3500rpm it was making ~180-190rwkw. Rolling on the throttle in third at 60km/h meant it was not practical. Boost is now straight off the actuator which is lazy on paper but still pulls super strong, it makes ~11psi at 3000rpm and then by just before 4500rpm its at 1bar. I plan to drop a set of cams in it and hopefully get it some where near 300rwkw on the same boost; maybe tighten up the actuator a little to raise boost and hopefully keep the boost a little lazy to help with throttle control. + it will save me the purchase of an ebc. If I do buy an EBC i'll be looking at an AVCR or something that I can set boost vs RPM. Some may say what a waste of the smaller turbo but compared to the gt35 its still so much more fun to drive in the lower gears simply because of its vastly increased response due to smaller wheels = less inertia. Thats my view after driving 2 near identical setups with the gt30 and gt35. You'll find with the larger a/r the rb30 soaks it up really well. It won't lag much more if any but give you much increased throttle control. Basically the larger a/r require more throttle to make the same boost compared to the smaller a/r making the throttle less touchy so you can regulate the boost better with that right foot for when it does start to break traction a little.

Cheers.. I'll have to check it out next time Im after some exh. gasket material. Be buggered paying $100 odd from nissan. :S

How do you guys go cutting the stuff? I had a hell of a time, tried using a grinder and no dice. :S I bought a VL exhaust manifold gasket ~$8 and tried to swap around a couple of the ports but as it turned out it was slightly off centre anyway so my port matching of the manifold/head etc would have gone to waste. + I couldn't cut it. I ended up tracking down a gen nissan rb26 gasket for next to nothing on ebay, cut and then used that.

Yeah the box's are $400-$500 ish s/h from jap wreckers. 'Some' jap wreckers charge outrageous prices.

and the blanket fix begins.

100km/h mine sits around 85degree's on a 30+degree day. Hit the a/c and it will creep to 87 but no more but mine does the same on a cold day. I did have an aftermarket thermostat in it and made it run quite a bit cooler. In the low to mid 70's. But it took too long to warm up so I grabbed a new nissan thermostat and dropped that in to it. In traffic it can creep to 90degree's but no more; prior to replacing the a/c fan with a 14" sblade fan and wiring the fan to come on when I hit the a/c button it would slowly creep to 100degree's in peak hour traffic when sitting around in what the amb button says 60degree's for a good 30+minutes. Temps are stable and hardly vary be it cold or warm. They are always anywhere from 83-87degree's depending on load and road speed.

If it only does it on cold starts unless it really bugs you why bother. Mine did it for a good 100,000km's, never got any worse. Spend the 1.5k on some go fast mods and do the head at a later date when it cracks one of those ringlands as the rb25's almost always do at some point. As for costs. Highly recommended to grab the genuine nissan VRS kit for around $280. They come with all top end gaskets, seals, headgasket & including valve stem seals. I priced up the valve stem seals alone and nissan wanted $330 :S For a valve stem seal replacement and valve grind you'll probably be looking at $300-$400 max depending on how well the bloke knows the heads. I can't remember exactly what I was charged as it was 2-3years ago but it was around that price just for the rebuild so to speak I also had bronze I think it was valve stem guides fitted.

The HKS .6 port shroud comp cover is definitely different to the Garrett versions from what I've seen. I haven't looked past in to the side of the inlet snout to see if the inside is essentially the same or not. I remember seeing HKS style inserts on ebay for the Garrett .6 port shroud comp cover, the comp covers have the grub screw holes for it so it all fits like Garrett intended it to. So if any ones got a HKS3037S try to get a pic of in between the inlet funnel/snout and the comp covers outer. Hard to explain. Pic attached. I'll say it again so it doesn't get lost in the thread. For those with the GT30 .6 IW garrett rears; they work well but you do need to follow a few simple rules for them to do so without creeping. The hardwork has been done; run the larger flapper with a good split or bell and it works perfectly fine. Good split being one that isn't just a 2" pipe but one that has the pipe massaged out to meet the edge of the flange as to prevent the wastegate flapper partially blocking the 2" pipe. You can see where the insert slides in to the inducer and the where the screw holes are to hold it in position. I would be really interested if there's a seat of the pants or dyno difference with the smoother neater inlet. If they are still around I might grab one as they are only $100-150 odd. Bit of a back to back. Really haven't got anything to loose apart from $150.

Hey Andrew, You can buy the hub new from any auto store for around $140. I believe the one to get is the VLT/R31 hub. The VL N/A hub is different, smaller from memory. I'm currently running a VL N/A fan; its slightly smaller, less blades and slightly louder but I had it sitting in the shed and doesn't have any overheating issues so I'm leaving it on until it starts to leak.

I'm unsure if that would tell you if the turbo really is stuffed or not. Every turbo I've had when sitting on the shelf leaks oil past the turbine wheel and compressor wheel. My new garrett turbo did it, and 4 other RB turbo's I've had have all done it. R34 GTT turbo, 2 x VG30det turbo's 1 x rb20det turbo. A mates journal bearing highflow also did it from new. But regardless... You won't see any oil by doing that test anyway as it would have to fill the scroll to the height of the turbine wheel minor first. Which would be a good 100-200mls of oil at a guess. So really I don't believe you are any wiser. If your going to have the head rebuilt get it cleaned up in the process, have a little port work done to it as it really does pay off with the 25 heads. I had mine rebuilt, multi angle valve job, valve deshroud, inlet and exhaust port for ~$1100 from memory. BUT that was myself giving them the head and them not removing/installing it.

I had the same problem with my old rb20t. If I were to start the car after it sitting for a good 8hrs either overnight or heading home after work and give it a quick rev I'd see a little cloud of smoke; take off only just hit boost and I'd see a small oil cloud behind me. Changed turbo's still did it. Apart from cold starts it never blew smoke and didn't use oil. Even when it was cold by the time I clicked third gear there was no more smoke. Next accel round it was clean. I then dropped the RB30DET (rebuilt head) in with the same turbo; no more smoke. So in my case valve stem seals. My opinion is if it were turbo seals it would be doing it when warm also.

So cooking it is.. Who has one of those boobie bbq aprons?

HKS3037ProS were released with the port shroud .6 comp cover. Port shroud helps prevent surge.

I'm another one who's in I.T. ... Dan, Whats the going rate for a lapdance these days?