Cubes

There is a very good reason to be uptight about fuel used. If the car is tuned for regular 98ron fuel and you go dropping an ethenol blend in it the car will lean out; egt's will raise, the motor will possibly ping/detonate or throw that ceramic turbine wheel. I have had the odd tank of Mobil 98 that has shown higher levels of det when the car was previously tuned much closer to the det threshold. Dangerman4 actually saw less det with shell vpower. For a car that is tuned right to the edge it is I think a wise idea to stick to a given brand of petrol.

Yeah the problem is also those that can get them to you for an extra 100 or 200 also get them from japan so 9 times out of 10 you wait just as long. That being 1-2months.

Your problem is with the IAC valve. (cold start idle up) Its located on top of the inlet manifold roughly below where the throttle body resides. The spring can flick off and result in a constant high idle. OR it becomes gummed up and sticks a little.

I'm with Dale. The more I look and think I'm really not sure the GT3076 is a good thing in the .6 as without better than pump fuel or water/meth injection it really doesn't do any better than the GT3071. Much like dropping a GT3040 in to a .6 rear on pump fuel. Its a waste of time. For a stock rb25 and 270rwkw ish The GT3071 with a .6 really is the best bet for the RB25. Track use or if you simply want to crack 300rwkw the GT3076 .8 is the go. BUT its most likely still going to need a set of little cams to get there on a safe pump friendly boost level.

WOW. Just checked what Nengun are selling the PFC's for at the moment. http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller $778 DELIVERED!!!!

lol @ Madaz walking with a petty can. At least the weather is nice. I've been getting ~450km's to 50litres the last couple of tanks. First couple of tanks after the tune got ~400-420 ish. Most I've fit in the tank is 57litres but the red light had been on for quite some time. As soon as the red light comes on its a 50-52litre fill. Bezender, PFC FTW. Grab one from Nengun for $778 Delivered and have Shaun/Boostworx fit it. http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller Take advantage of the strong AUD.

Ovadrv, 15psi through a highflow. Its possible the standard turbo to afm rubber pipe is sucking closed slightly causing the boost drop.

Boost98 isn't supposed to improve economy. When tuned for the ethanol fuel there is a reasonable improvement in power. Some have seen ~20rwkw. If anything the ethanol fuel will return slightly worse economy.

Yes.

Two Uniteds that I know of - Corner of Goodwood and Crossroad And there's another up in blackwood. The Liberty fuel appears to be an E10 fuel also. http://www.libertyoil.com.au/www/230/10011...le/1001366.html So no doubt should offer the same advantages. I might check out the local liberty; if they have the E10 I might look at getting the car tuned on it. There isn't a United close enough.

VG30 and R34 GTT turbine housings are the same. The R34 turbo has a slightly larger compressor wheel that is possibly lighter due to the material it is made out of. It will punch harder when it comes on as a result. The R33 S2 turbo really is the best pick out of the std turbo's for the rb20.

Sorry disco.. I didn't mean crap as in the turbo is crap but rather it wasn't what was asked for. As for the .7 rear; the slight indentation between the wastegate and the turbine wheel looks identical to a .7 turbine housing I saw down at ATS in Adelaide. So quite possibly it is. It might be a good thing for the power you are after Simon. You were after 250-260rwkwish I remember. It should drop you smack right there with slightly better spool and mid range compared to the slightly larger turbo. All though it doesn't leave much headroom does that really matter for its use?

gtrkeit, post up the part number.. Series 2 R33 coils run the ignitor on coil so are not suitable for the RB26, R32 rb20/rb25 and r33 series 1's.

Nice Mo Steve.. Is that MO being grown for Movember? 2days growth? Not bad.

Contact your insurance company, give them the police report number and they will then handle it from there; you'll get your car fixed. If you have no insurance you can file a small claims and use the police report number to take them to court. You still won't find out where they live etc but they will receive a court summons. And 'eventually' most likely in $5 instalments if they are some dero/bum living out north or south you will get your $$ back. I've never had to do it but that's how I have been told it works. Depending on the cost of repairs sometimes your better off having the insurance company fix it. I'm unsure if you will loose a rating if your not at fault if the car turns out to be not registered i.e some one buys a car and doesn't transfer the rego. Fingers crossed all you have to pay is the excess. Thats if your not with Justcars as justcars excess is sky high. :S

Wouldn't know which GT3071 it was Burnsie?

Hey Disco, Yes.. std hydraulic head. Regardless others haven't had as many issues as I have. I'm starting to fear the installed heights were fiddled with when it had the work done to the head. Regarding the HKS2835ProS. Standard Rb25 down this way generally see's them top out around 280rwkw on pump with the .87 rear. 300rwkw can be obtained with cams and exhaust manifold. I haven't seen one crack 300rwkw with a std exhaust manifold/std cams but in saying that here in Adelaide there are some high and some low dyno's varying up to 20rwkw even though they are run in the same DD Dyno shoot out mode. Here in Adelaide; one has pushed ~313rwkw quite some time ago but that was a full built motor with cams, headwork, exhaust manifold etc. So not just a simple bolt on. Prior to the non std mods so to speak he was only able to obtain 280rwkw. I've since only seen 1 other with a GT2835r .8 which also topped out on pump with the std gear around 280rwkw. They seem to make good power up until around 250-260rwkw on little boost then as you push more boost in they stop making power as easily and eventually start dropping boost. So I'd assume high scroll inlet pressure. Both have had huge issues with dropping boost. Unsure if its the HKS turbine housing issue that possibly uses a flapper that is too large as a result pushing the flapper open.

They have buggered up. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_700382_20.htm The 700382-20 uses the 56.5mm 'cropped' 90trim turbine wheel. Its not what you asked for so by rights they have to exchange it. The turbo you want has the CHRA of 700177-23 With the 700177-23 (GT3071r 60mm turbine wheel) you have the option of a 2.75" inlet comp cover or a 4" inlet comp cover. Both are a .5 a/r. Then the turbine; obviously the new Garrett style IW housing with the larger flapper; the letter M is on the end of the turbine housings part number. I'm unsure if GCG import directly from Garrett USA or get all their gear from AUS garrett. If they get it from AUS garrett then they will have access to the M larger IW housings. If not.. I don't believe Garrett USA does them yet. Basically all Garrett AUS do is machine and stick in a larger flapper; the additional cost is ~$100 more vs ~$300 if you were to get the local turbo shop to do the mod.

Their details are in the workshop sticky in this SA section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t123887.html bstworx@bigpond.net.au A very bad time to request any work to be done. Xmas is always the case + they have their own car to get ready etc etc so they are very busy.

I'm running the base rb26 dwell. What spark gap are you running mafia?

The issue is clearly with the ecu/tuner combination. Have your tuner pull his finger out of his bottom and check the coils dwell vs rpm has been setup correctly. If its not it will either provide a weak spark or overheat and kill the coils quickly. My bets are on the later.

2 26's in 5months.. What's causing the failure? Is it tune related?

Speak to Just Cars. There's absolutely no point getting a car alarm, get insurance, car gets stolen, recovered then the insurance company voids your policy as the car alarm didn't meet 'their' requirements. Simply not worth the risk for saving a few $$. I do know they require a so called black wire 3 point immobiliser, the alarm must also lock the doors and arm its self. I've disabled the lock its self feature as I had it lock my keys in the car. As for the viper.. I have no idea, I run something a little different. -- As above.. Famous Classic Car Insurance; in the past I've found to be tops.

Speak to your insurance company with regards to their car alarm requirements. Some require the car alarm to meet certain standards and specifications. But off the top of my head.. Unsure whats good or not. I believe something that's not common or cheap. http://www.brant.com.au/ http://quiktrak.com.au/ http://mongoose.com.au/

URAS, A mate of mine has a set of GTR reground cams from Ivan. Inlet 254 8.5mm lift 112 centreline; Exh. 254 8.5mm lift 117 centreline. Picked up 26rwkw on 1psi less with the std centrelines. inlet was 112 and exhaust 117. Didn't loose any down low, started to pick up power from mid range onwards and all though probably tune related its picked up fuel economy. From memory the cams were $220 for the pair to regrind. He said he can also offer the 265's 8.9mm lift but I'm a tinny bit concerned about reducing the base circle to obtain those numbers. Soon to give him a buzz and see what he thinks about my concerns.