Cubes

Awesome Andrew, The next week will be a blur. Absolutely nothing beats being a Dad! Congrats. All the best!!!!!!

Its obvious this isn't a 'common' occurance. If it were it would be plastered over ns.com and here on sau. It would be good to hear a response as to what they feel was the contributing factor. If it was indeed workmanship (i.e sh*t happens) you may very well find you'll receive a new turbo for nothing.

A little update again. This modification most definitely needs to have a wideband slapped on the car from the word go as there's a few little issues with the afm curve, afm selection and coolant temp correction. Strangely enough not all cars are equal; some cars have near spot on afr's with a simple tweak of the airflow yet others require fiddling. The car will appear to drive fine but afr's are really way off mark, definitely not recommended to drive around on for any length of time. The VCT controller is easy; use a NOS controller as Simon suggested above. The US sell them for dirt cheap. ~$50 for an adjustable nos rpm window controller. I've looked in to the jaycar solution and its difficult to get working not to mention it has to be slightly customised. The rpm window controllers than can be had from the US are cheap, compact, already assembled and just work. I've had the 26pfc running in my 32 for some time now; its returning excellent economy ~450km's per tank (50L) but on average 430km's. No open road driving all local short trip (<30mins) 60-80km/h type. I feel its still got a little more economy in it as I haven't really tweaked the water temp correction which has a reasonable impact on economy for short trip driving.

Throttle was held wide open during the test? Gauges differ; its possible its just the gauge. For what its worth my old rb20t when I bought the car some 6years ago had ~145 across all 6. 100,000km's later it was basically the same but with a slight variation.

Get it back on the dyno to see whats going on.

A little bit of speculation. Maybe it was dropped prior to install? Caused a hairline fracture on the comp cover backing plate that eventually failed causing the comp wheel to fail the way it has? How otherwise would the back plate fail in the way it did?

You worry too much. Its about as hard on the engine as overtaking on the open road in third gear. If this is your first dyno day come along for a look see; you'll see no cars blow up etc and how its nothing more than a 5second run to peak power and then off again.

I stumbled upon a little guide with pics. May give some of you a heads up on how to clean/inspect etc a set of the DOHC RB's hydraulic lifters. http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?foru...&dtSearch=3 and the higher rez pics - http://ashspecz.com/Image%20Gallery/Lifter...build/index.htm

No probs Simon. Keen to check it out. Hillzy, So your currently not driving your car? If its going to blow up it will blow up on the road. If your worried about running it up on the dyno definitely do not give it a boot on the road as the road is not a controlled environment; you can't hear or see it pinging so you keep your foot in to it and BANG!

lol yeah the GT series have been accused of shitty/weak bearings BUT I really think this comes down to the owner. Not allowing oil temp to be at operating temp before giving it a hiding. When water temp is at operating temp oil temp is still cold until ~7-10mins after water temp reaches operating temp. Thats my experience anyway.

Not me buddy.. Haven't driven the R32 today.

I can't even see anything on their website anyway. BUT Tighe cams appear to be good.

I've used them in the past (250ford motor & 5ltr GM); they worked. Didn't have any problems with them.

There's a cheap RB26 pfc for sale... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...ml#entry3448052 Be sure to grab all details, home phone, address and cross check before handing over $$.

Don't get me wrong I would love a set of Defi Gauges. I just can't justify spending that amount on the little old R32 GTST when it has so much more to be spent on it. It never ends. lol. + I'm not sure the other half would be too happy unwrapping a defi gauge for her b/day xmas. lmao

Size the turbo to what power you want. The .6 GT35 will get you between 300 and 350rwkw. The .8 closer to 400rwkw maybe over if really leaned on and the 1.06 a bee's docker over 400rwkw. There's no such thing as lack top end; if it makes 350rwkw it makes 350rwkw; be that with a .6 or .8 top end will feel the same but the mid range will definitely not. I must suck.. I've driven RB25/30's with GT35 .82's and I feel they are only 'just' bearable on the street. IMO a street Rb25/30 is awesome with a GT30. Not because I own one but because I've driven a few different setups. I'd expect the .6 GT35 to be very similiar to that of the .8 GT30 BUT with additional decrease in response due to the larger wheels/inertia that affects primarily the lower 1st and 2nd gears. If you throw an auto in to the equation then most definitely the GT35 .82. But 5speed manual, I don't like the lack of response feel from the GT35. I guess you get used to it. :S For the track I'd prefer the GT35 .8 simply because the GT30 .8 I think will be pretty damn hard to get out of the corners clean due to its quick spool and big hitting mid range. Of which makes the car fun on the street.

4400rpm sounds very similiar to the sort of spool a bloke was getting on his SR20 over on ns.com making 320rwkw but that was a GT3076r .6. :S A mates Rb25 with a GT35 .82 see's all 20+psi by ~4200rpm. BUT thats behind an Auto. .82 GT35 + SR20 = 4400rpm. Hrmm.. RB26 will be fine with a GT35 .82; they have the rev's with little modification. Spool is subjective; the dyno type also has an influence on how it loads the motor up and for how long. Some dyno operators load it up from idle; others sit it on the brake for a sec to show a nice early spooling meaty curve.

They work out a little more expensive than a set of Autometer guages; the prices on those gauges are without the senders and also in USD. Not sure if I want to spend $700 on a set of 3 defi gauges though + I don't believe they make them in a 52mm gauge? The Nordskog gauge appears to be well known overseas and I have seen them around when buying gauges for the boat etc. Apparently they are meant to be a good thing, just haven't heard much about them within the auto industry. I'll try to dig up a little more on them before I make a decision. 25GTT, The gauge number colour is available in Blue, Red, Amber and Green. They also do universal dash panels that are all digital. http://www.nordskogperformance.net/product...anels/index.htm Also have the option to create your own combination. http://www.nordskogperformance.net/product...ail/dp10003.htm They appear to look like a good thing and after a little digging up they are definitely highly respected Marine gauges. No doubt their Auto gauges 'should' be just as good.

Only created the thread today. I'm fairly mind set that I will be getting these gauges. Unless some one has something bad to say about them.

lol.. Its all good im only playing.

I'm more intrigued by the positioning of the gearbox.

4000rpm for the .6 it is then.

Thats it.. Anything is welcome. There will be a members only area; the club will be a non-profit org so anything that comes in will be pushed back out for the members. Those on the committee will know where the $$ are going etc..

I'd hope u'd see 1bar by 4k. Its not all that unreasonable to see it by that rpm. With cams etc you may see it a tad earlier BUT on the road chances are it will pull hard/clean from 4.5k onwards.