Cubes

I wouldn't be too concerned with specific measurements. All you need to know is 2 x tensioners... 1 positioned above the water pump on the inlet side and the other down in the tensioner location on the exhaust side. Then dummy it up; grab the cam belt, came belt covers and position it so that it clears the cam belts. Failure to do so will result in the belt rubbing on the cam belt cover(s); which is what happened to some one I know. Dummy it up; you can't go wrong. I've attached the rb30 guide to this threads first page/post that contains a pic and measurements of the upper tensioner location courtesy of that Cobra dude. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=132205

1k is dirt cheap; I'd be looking closely at exactly what they are doing. A good balance is a must as well as replacement good rod bolts, good bearings and clearances that have been opened up slightly.

Thanks Geoff. A mate of mine used a 'modified shroud' AU thermo and they really did pull some air; noisy as buggery but worked damn very well.

Geoff, You run the El thermo's or AU's?

Definitely is.. As I said before I ran 2x12" thermo's; they were mounted directly on to the rad. Upon pulling them off it was scary to see how little of the radiator air was being pulled through. Dust marks left behind looked to be ~25-30% of the radiator. Shroud or not a single 12" won't pull enough cfm to cool sitting in traffic on a 35+degree day with the a/c on. With the a/c off you may get away with it as the viscous pulls bugger all air on idle. Mine tends to slowly increase engine temps until around 92-95degree's then holds steady when idling in peak hour with the viscous and a/c on.

I ran 2 x 12" thermos and the bastard overheated in traffic and would push coolant out the overflow in general driving on 35+degree days. Good luck with 1 x 12" thermo.

Of coarse it can, but it will be super laggy. Rb30e rebuild; 7-7.3k rev limit ~2.5k. rb30e 8.5k revlimit ~5k. Darren has pushed his stock rb30rods to 470rwkw with a 7k rev limit.

yeah its hektic; when u pull up to a stop it drops on its arse full pimp style.

My new daily to and from work. The R32 has only been driven 100km in the last 3 weeks.

Never heard of a coil pack going that way before. :S What ecu are you running?

Premo, Who are u getting to do your tailshaft? There's 2 places here in Adelaide that I'm aware of; one is absolute crap the other is fairly good.

I wouldn't be spending $$ on replacing valve stem seals to fix only a cold start smoky problem.

It would be helpful if you mentioned the area the car was stolen.

This is an easy $100 saving on tint. My tint cost me $270 and that was a good price. Some were up around $330.

Yeah the mods over on ns.com are a little strange at times. Supernazi's.

Mine was slightly loose; turned out to be the subframe bushes. Was good for a while then started getting really loose and getting mega rear end steer when hard on the acceleration. Hicas rack was stuffed; fit lock bar all good.

ghey. It would look like arse without the rear guards also done. And then it would be a mega insult to R33 GTR's as the GTST simply won't perform off the line like the GTR nor would it have that RB26 solid follower exhaust note. A R33 looks nice as it is; std kit, slightly lowered with nice wheels and 265's all round. Why not flog the car off; save up a little more and grab an R33 GTR?

hrmm maybe. :S I saw it down Grefell street during the middle of the day. Can't remember exactly what day though. They were hooning it a bit.

Hrmm I believe I saw you recently in town driving it around. The tail lights look better in life than they do in the pic.

The M version has the larger flapper from garrett of which is ~$100 more than the std. They do nothing more than port out the hole and then shove a larger flapper on it. So for a couple hundred get the same done from the local turbo shop. Its really not worth wasting $$ on selling and buying the M version. Get yours modded; its the same thing. Then... Ensure you run a bell mouth dump; don't go with a split unless the setup/inlet flange section is the same as the HKS split dump. If you want a pic of the HKS dump I have a pic I saved from a kind person who posted pics of the HKSGT3037ProS

Yeah apparently so. Apparently there was a little bit of a misunderstanding so I've been told. Not 100% sure. Its between ACS and the person.

Andrew, Yeah; I believe it recently got stolen too. :S ----- Tangles.. Its all good buddy. I know it wasn't myself or Bl4ck32 so there's absolutely no stress. All though I don't like being accused your all good as you didn't actually accuse me. + your bigger than me.. hahah + I'm not so stupid or hard up for $$ to pull a shonky such as this. But for the others.. It did piss me off a little so I cleaned this thread up. Bl4ck32 has a nice little OS Giken twin plate.. Why would he want a single. + I've known Darren/Bl4ck32 for aaaages.. Absolute top bloke of whom I know would definitely not pull a shonky like this.

What an arse. Definitely not me fella's. It was most definitely not Bl4ck32 as that sort of shit just isn't up his alley. I can vouch for Darren 100000000% percent.

Well thats the end of this thread. CLOSED

Lets not start to get personal peoples. Keep the thread civilised. ------- In all honesty how many of these turbo's have failed? How many were sold? Here on SAU there has been very few failures in the grand scheme of things. There was a thread over on ct.com a while back where people were complaining of the high failure rates of the GT BB (GT30 & GT35) turbo's. Head over to an xr6t forum and there we have it again; quite a few failures of the GT turbo's. Its bound to show up as OMG there's failures everywhere when hundreds/thousands of a certain product has been sold. I'm not biased either way and honestly don't really give two hoots but its really quite obvious that sh*t happens; if an offer has been made to have the turbo replaced under warranty why whine and complain; doing so will only have the seller possibly withdraw their offer to do 'the right thing'.