
Cubes
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Everything posted by Cubes
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The R32 GTST's are every day road cars which run a 4.3:1 diff ratio. They can get away with a low diff ratio as they rev to 7k. The VL's run with a higher ratio because they only rev to 5.5 6k max unless heavily modified + have a hell of a lot more torque so get the car moving a lot quicker and spool the turbo much quicker. For example. My old RB20det with its 4.3 diff gears would return mid 10 to 11litres per 100km's. At 100km/h it would sit at ~2850rpm. In short small capacity motors that rev high NEED low diff ratio's. If its a everyday car for toodling around the local streets a 4.3:1 is simply awesome. If you live out in the sticks always on 100km/h roads I'd consider a 3.7.
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With the same mods as yours on the stock ecu mine made around 160-164rwkw. That VL will always be slow with the rb20det in it UNLESS you drop the diff gears to a more friendly 4.3 or at least 4.1.
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JJR Coil Packs Vs Oem Vs Splitfire Vs Other
Cubes replied to 4drftn's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Are you claiming these coils magically make more horsepower than an OEM coil (that isn't stuffed) or a splitfire coil? How long have these superspark coils been around for? Its much like the JJR's. They haven't been proven to last the distance. At least JJR are offering a better priced product; it gets people buying them and possibly proves they perform well. Something is iffy about that last dyno run; you increase boost mid range picks up not just the top end. It looks almost as if its a larger turbo. A much more convincing dyno comparison would have been one that depicts realistic results. To average joe they look at that dyno sheet and thing wtf its lost power through the mid range; those coils must be crap for high hp peak torque. Splitfires have been around for a very long time and are priced the same as the supersparks. supersparks haven't proven them selves to last the distance. JJR offering a coil that is new to the market for a considerable $100 cheaper is a good thing. Thats IMO. -
JJR Coil Packs Vs Oem Vs Splitfire Vs Other
Cubes replied to 4drftn's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Quoted from superspark.com.au Legitimate testing is against a set of new splitfires or good OEM coils that are not stuffed causing breakdown. I haven't seen the test in HPI magazine but I would hope its nothing like what is shown on the superspark home page. What was with the huge mid range lost in that last GTR dyno comparison? Reading the superspark.com.au results leaves me feeling a little iffy about them. Why post results of back to back (the last gtr dyno sheet compare) when clearly the test wasn't performed in a controlled manner? Or (I highly doubt) is it the coils causing the GTR to loose up to a very noticable 27rwkw in the mid range. :S Regardless; if they are the same $500 cost as to the splitfires I'll simply grab the splitfires. If they were around $400 I would consider them as they have not yet proven them selves. But that is IMO. -
Yes my bad as they say.. I thought about it after and realised 4ltrs is actually a 245. Steve; I'm hitting the sack for the night. Up early to give the old man a hand putting up his house (Steel framing).
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At the very very latest the end of the first week of January. So its getting very close.
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The good ol' 225 Centura!!!!!
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New Clutch Now Have Gearbox Problems
Cubes replied to pytanie's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Not really.. I went from Valvoline semi-synth stuff to VMX80 with an improvement; then to Gear HD and it was horrid, worse than the very cheap valvoline semi-synth Motul gear 300 ftw if you want good shift quality or simply run the cheap VMX80. -
New Clutch Now Have Gearbox Problems
Cubes replied to pytanie's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Motul Gear could be Gear HD the mineral junk. Gear 300 is the only stuff you want. I've tried the Gear HD and it is Nooooooo good. Bulks on fasts shifts once warm also. :S -
New Clutch Now Have Gearbox Problems
Cubes replied to pytanie's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Nothing is wrong with knock hitting 18 on start up. What motul gearbox oil did he put in? Mineral junk or the full synth Gear 300? The gear 300 is excellent stuff and will not cause shift problems. The mineral HD motul stuff will. Motul Gear 300 > Redline anyway. -
If the motor was cold and your pulling high rev's expect to loose a bottom end in the future. As a general rule don't give the car a hiding until ~10mins after the water temp has reached normal operating temp as the oil is still cold and thick. Thick oil = less oil flow. If you loose a bottom end there's a reason for it; either you have given it shiet when its cold, there's been detonation or oil starvation at some point.
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The stock gauges and senders are notoriously inaccurate and can read either extremely low (most common) or in some cases extremely high. Mine does both from time to time. Get either a cheap mechanical pressure gauge on it to test or shove a decent elec gauge (~$100-150). Oil pressure too high or too low can indicate engine problems so get it checked out.
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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
Cubes replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
As the old rule goes.. 444cc is around 450 crank hp; 450hp is around 260rwkw (depending on dyno); mine were maxed with a 11.5:1 afr at 250rwkw and required more pressure; pump is a new bosch 044 mounted internal and larger 300zx/gtr filter. Nothings iffy with it; on the same dyno my rb20det injectors were at 100% duty for a little over 180rwkw to hold a 12:1 afr. Another blokes rb20det with std injectors managed 190rwkw but the afr's were creeping close to the 14's. Sky30's old RB30DET at 312rwkw was at around 85% duty on his 550cc's, then there was rbmans rb30det which was around 230-240rwkw and was nearing 90% duty with gtr injectors also. All on the same dyno. In saying that I suspect that a car that makes more torque requires more fuel for a given power level as it will tend to make its peak power at an earlier rpm. If a motor makes the same peak power at 6000rpm vs one at 8000rpm from what I've seen the 6000rpm peak power requires a little more fuel. AD4M, where does yours make its peak power? -
Good stuff. Nothing worse then reading of some one elses hard work go pear shaped. So whens she going to be run in? I was on holidays when I got mine running so it had done close to 1000 within the first week.
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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
Cubes replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Definitely not stockers then. My 444cc injectors flow tested up as 480cc with 40psi base and 100% duty. On the dyno they max'd out at ~250rwkw and required a 1point afr drop on idle (15:1 to 14:1) via the nismo adj fpr; it then grabbed 268rwkw on from memory 85% duty. The Z32 is swallowing ~4.75volts. -
Awesome.. Getting much closer to that minimum 10 payments we need to make this day to go ahead. I'll drop you a PM when the $$ clear.
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Sounds silly but its plugged in correctly? Were the head oil restrictors replaced after cleaning up the block? If there's very little oil pressure you will hear the hydraulic lifters tapping. All though if you have had the head reco'd and lifters bled you will be none the wiser as the lifters tick after they have been bled anyway. Grab a cheap aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge to check for oil pressure. Its not worth the damage that can be done if there is a problem with oil pressure.
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Rubber Castor Bushes? Not Urethane
Cubes replied to BAMR33's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I quite like the feel urethane bushes up front and urethane subframe bushes have given the car. Its a nice solid, sharp, direct sporty feel. Just like a sport car should. Not boaty with no feedback. Maybe I'm not one to comment as I love the harsh motor thump feel of the old camy v8 SLR's and old school fords. Nothing quite like the rawness. (even though they are generally slow) -
Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
Cubes replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I wouldn't bother questioning Garymeister with regards to the oil feed mods. I did as I was a little worried about the lack of oil due to no feed from the vct and my head machinist recommending against it. I ended up going with Gary's recommendation (R32 RB25DE head, no-vct, blocked rear, 1.5mm up front) and it works a charm. The only noise I get on start up is a little piston slap for the first second or so as it has always done, then a light slap until its at operating temp. The top end is silent. 4months and still perfectly fine. The rb30det has now clocked a total of 72,000km's and counting with zero oil in the catch can or a smear of oil in the catch cans piping. Extremely happy. -
Vietorious and Darkhorse. Moneys have cleared. Thanks.
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Yeah Steve that would help with the numbers.
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I've been slack Oosh. Too busy with work lately. I'll find out if the bike can be run tomorrow. As for payment.. We need 10 payments people. 3 have said they are depositing, myself well I'd hope I'd turn up.
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OT 'again' :S VQ30DET in an R32 GTST. All alloy; possibility of working something out with the VQ35DET.
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A little OT but oh well. :S Stock airbox - Hidden 100mm cai in to the inner bumper Black FMIC that utilizes the stock piping route. Std bov has been blocked off. 2 catch cans, one either side of the motor to keep it hidden. The PCV is blocked and only attached for looks; the pipe is T'd in to and runs to a catch can under the inlet manifold. The catch cans are bone dry as are the pipes leading to them. On the dyno they don't appear to breathe since I blocked the rear restrictor and dropped a 1.5mm up front. As I went with a GT30 I stuck with the std exhaust manifold which is good enough for 300rwkw at a squeeze. Interstate 2 inlet mods are illegal? i.e pod and fmic? Here they are not but regardless I stick with the stock airbox as it works fine with a custom CAI and looks just that little bit more stock. I'm tired of the narrow tyres so soon to put a sedate set of wheels and sticky tyres on it. Then for those track days 1hr changing suspension and and quick trip for a wheel alignment then on to the car trailer. Yeah it sucks but at least I get to enjoy the car without too many drama's. I've put 70,000km's on the motor to date. So by the time those stroker cranks are out its quite possible I'll be looking at one. Chances are I'll grab a clean R32 GTS4 4door and do it to that but with a gt35 and hks cast manifold. I've also considered a VQ30DET amongst other things (turbo v8) Always liked my v8's.
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By driving it sensibly.. Time and place for everything. I've been pulled over once; only thing that was picked was the tint that I grabbed and edge and pulled off before he could say anything more. BUT mine looks 100% stock under the bonnet as it uses the std piping route, heatshields, std looking exhaust (no milotin with a big tip), no pfc h/c in car, no gauges visible etc looks like a stocker. And in many respects compared to some of the rb30det's it is. Usually you will get defected for silly things like too low and too loud due to the large 'loud' looking exhaust. Thats what I've noticed from others that have been defected here in Adelaide.