Cubes

Remember flow isn't the be all and end all. Collector design has a huge influence on performance.

Exactly why these minority inept police officers should not be in in the job when they defect for items that are not defectable. By all means if an item is defectable well take it on the chin; but when an item isn't well.... Inept, abuse of power, upholding or making the law? and a few others come to mind. They create unwarranted hardship on individuals.

Im a slacker and dump the whole 5ltrs in. So over filled by approx 400ml. With only a single 1.5mm restrictor and blocked rear there's no oil in the catch can just a slight film.

There's 2 links on the first post of this thread. One of them should work.

Most likely similiar to the Nismo item. Its around the same $$ http://www.nengun.com/nismo/clutch-pedal-bracket

Cronic, its not the actual pedal but rather the pedal box; the box that holds the pedal. They have crappy little spot welds which pop eventually. If you don't let it get too bad the box is salvageable as it doesn't completely rip apart. The fix is to simply weld the box up nicely.

What is it with all these black r32 RB30det's

If you don't mesh the gears together correctly they will smash them selves to pieces. This is why the sender clearly is off center. So you can use different gears and adjust accordingly.

Yes.

wow complicated. I slide the gearbox rubber mount towards the front of the car so that the middle hole in the std xmember lined up with the rear chassis holes. Then simply drill new holes in the gearbox so you can bolt the gearbox to the rubber mount. I then bought a $2 piece of 4mm plate, drilled 3 holes, bolted the front chassis hole up to the plate directly then the xmember's middle hole bolts through the bar in to the chassis. The xmembers rear hole requires a nut with a little locktight. Slap a little sound deadening spray crap so it matches the rest of the floor pan and its extremely difficult to pick. I'll grab some pics soon.

Hey Matt, No problems buddy; I won't put any more down on the list as its getting fairly large; basically on the day those that haven't prepaid its first in first serve. So get the $$ to me asap on the day to secure your spot. We will be running a total of 25-30cars. 2 runs per car. We are nearing the 30car maximum but as with all dyno days there's always the few that decide not to go on the day or simply forget. I've just received a pm from a dude called natoe aka slw 031. He wouldn't be one of the ones you mentioned would you?

When I had mine done the bloke asked what I was doing with the car. The diff yoke where it joins the tail shaft is 'apparently' a problem after abuse at the drags with slicks if the car is making decent power. Apparently its held in by a hard rubber which slips and causes the yokes to become unaligned and obviously provide no drive. Regardless he said it would cost another hundred or so to get that made as a single piece from the center bearing to the yoke. He recommended to stick with a 2 piece but just fix its slight flaws.

Their web site states good for 480whp. God damn american dynos.

Yeah I guess its part of modifying; nothing ever goes smoothly. The biggest worry with dumping oil in the head is if you track the car. Constant high rpm and the oil isn't able to return to the sump quick enough which ultimately results in oil surge. A lot of the blokes get around it by over filling the sump. Mine was extremely bad as I have close to 90psi over ~4000rpm ish. after a hard pull on the rollers I could see the oil puddling with the lobes slightly poking out the top of the oil. Restricted the oil down and its now spot on. I run 2 catch cans one either side down low as its neater than having big hoses winding through the engine bay. Tomei sell oil restrictors but its a pain in the arse pulling the head off for a $5 part. --- Kisin and R32Abuser, it may be worth having a chat to Sean at Boostworx. They have tuned and built a few rb30det's; they also get work done by Jason @ Nisspeed. Sean is well aware of the oiling issues and has had quite a lot done alot of fiddling to get it right.

Thats exactly it SLED, minimum seat pressure that works. Which comes down to experience what does. The RB26 heads run 50lbs seat pressure standard; the rb25 runs very close to that but uses the heavier hydraulic lifters. As you would know heavier valve train requires more seat/open pressure to control the valves. Mine being setup so loose because they really didn't have any experience with the rb25 head has cost me a lot of money and what really got up my nose is when I sent it back to be fixed up I was charged quite a lot. Such is life; given time they will get the know how of what does and doesn't work with the rb25 heads. Typically its known that ~70lbs of seat pressure with the hydraulic rb25 head works very well. R32Abuser; if you do get a motor built up by them ensure they restrict the oil delivered to the head. Without a dry sump setup its really the only way to control the oil being dumped in the head and filling your catch can under constant high rpm as without a decent vac setup the oil cannot return to the sump quick enough. I run a single 1.5mm up front and blocked rear. Works extremely well. Don't get me wrong Miltons do awesome work; its just a slight lack of experience with one motor type that left me a little unstuck. They are getting in to the drift scene so no doubt a lot of R&D will be done. In saying all that there is ALWAYS some one who's had a bad run with a workshop from time to time. The experience wasn't bad just the outcome which has been frustrating when I had to go else where to seek advice and get the problem finally rectified.

My experience is otherwise. 35pounds seat pressure for a performance turbo 24v nissan motor is apparently really really good. NOT Prior to that they set it up so it was floating all over the joint. 15pounds seat; floated from day one. umm 70pounds is where u want it. They looked at me with a shocked face. I've had the head off 3 times to sort out the lack of seat pressure that they should have been able to sort from day one. Speak to Nisspeed, Lewis or Adelaide engines if you want some one to build your motor with experience under their belt.

Thats way too close to home to have nazi's defecting for items that are non-existent. In saying that 'around' the same area I was driving at dusk with my other half and bubs in the car to grab some junk food when I had a mr police man fly up from the distance and sit smack up my arse; dangerously up my arse. I changed in to the right lane and drove straight in to KFC drive through. I was followed in; they parked at the drive through exit; I decided I no longer wanted KFC so reversed out and got pizza. I expected a visit for days afterwards. :S

Ahh shiet.. Sorry. It is the 8th. I neglected to update the first post from the 1st to the 8th.

GCG definitely aren't the cheapest but from a few warranty claims I've heard of they are definitely offer a no fuss warranty. They can be picked up for around $1800ish with actuator but you do have to shop around. On occasions MTQ have specials on the gt30 and gt35's which sees them down around that price. What do CRD do the GT30 IW for? Last I checked they were fairly well priced.

Hrmm.. thats the second person within a week i've heard of being defected for an Intercooler. I think its time to give vehicle standards a buzz and see if they have changed what mods can be performed. With regards to lowering the R33.. Unfortunately anything other than stock is illegal. We are only allowed to lower our cars around 10mm of which is impossible unless you run thread type coil overs. 10mm still looks stock height. Anything that doesn't is unfortunately defectable. So thats why he probably didn't bother getting a tape to it. As for the rear wheel track. Tyre size is irrelivent. Standard the R33's come out with 6" wide rims; legally your only allowed to go 1" wider from memory. A 7" wide rim isn't all that common unless the wheels your running is from bob jane. Generally wheel size ranges from 7.5-8" wide front and rear. So if the tyre had a slight stretched look it would be definitely defectable. I'm going to buzz vehicle standards maybe today if I get time and clarify the wheel and intercooler question. Out of curiosity what area was this in?

When is it knocking? Light load cruise as well? start up? only under load say 4th gear low rev's up a hill or 3rd gear low rev's long pull out of a corner? I've found the BIG problem with dyno's is the ramp rate is not slow enough; so load that higher gear up out of a corner or 4/5th up a hill and it will tend to slightly det if its tuned a little too aggressive through the mid. It really depends on your driving style if the above is a problem or not.

You can have issues with ext. gates just as you can with int. gates. A mates ext gate had nothing but troubles as its simply would not hold boost. Obviously influenced by its setup but none the less. My int gate has no issues either does a correctly setup XR6T pushing 400rwkw out of its int gate. RBman runs a XR6T turbo on his RB30DET; it makes from memory 1bar by ~3900rpm. No issues with boost control there. Set it up correctly with thought and you shouldn't have issues with either. Don't bother wasting money if you don't have too.

Unfortunately its not as simple as just modding one. It needs to be put on the dyno and datalogit fiddled with to get it running well.

I wouldn't be concerned of the speedo read out difference. It really is bugger all. I sat next to a new honda with a digital dash read out and the speedo dash was spot on. The PFC H/C was slightly out by ~3km/h. With regards to the diff ratio and traction it really depends on how much power the car is making and tyres/size your running. I had the 4.08:1 ratio with around 200rwkw. It felt like the car lost so much of its sportiness and brute acceleration in the lower gears that the first weekend I had off I had the 4.363:1 ratio back in. However. With more power when traction becomes a problem it may be worth while. I'm about to drop the 4.08:1 back in to see how I like it with ~270rwkw BUT first I'm throwing a set of decent rims at the car and fitting a pair of 255/40 17's on the rear to see how that helps. If I can get almost all of second gear down I'll stick with the 4.3:1. At the moment with ok 225/50/16's (that hook up better than 245/40/18's Nankang NS2's) it doesn't have a hint of grip in first or second gear. Third will often spin up if it hits a white line, slight bump or I accelerate on a light bend. Fingers crossed a set of decent 255's in 17" hook up fairly well. I'd say do the gearbox; wait on the diff ratio and see how the package works. I recommend the RB26 PFC.

You can purchase all the required gear for ~ a few hundred but then you need dyno time and some one willing to let you do the tuning. Its not feasible unless your trusted and good mates with a dyno owner. I guess you could grab a wide band and make up a pair of det cans but road tuning is the good ol Aussy word 'dodgy'.