Cubes

Glad to hear it wasn't a welsh plug.

I took some pics of the r32 rb25 gearbox adaptor plate. Its a thin piece of 6mm plate with 3 holes drilled in it. You could get away with a 4mm piece. Any less and the box will foul on the tunnel.

sec 278... Is possibly where it runs off to around the back of the head. The culprit hose being 14056NB if I'm reading the diagram correctly. Not 100% sure as the length of metal pipe in the pic looks too short to run the length behind the head but it is only a pic. There has to be some form of water hose coming from the back of the head as there is only 1 turbo water feed/return which ever it is on the passenger side of the block. I replaced mine by lowering the back of the gearbox down with the scissor jack and then reaching up; slicing the old rubber hose off with a Stanley knife then sliding on the new. I used a small socket set to remove/install the hose clamps. Its not too difficult but I did replace it with the car on the pit of which I no longer have

Nissan being nissan I'd assume its the water feed/return which ever it is that runs from under the plenum around the back of the head then to the turbo. Joining the two metal hoses is a small rubber hose. I replaced that then the others started to let go.

A stock rb20det turbo. The stock rb20det turbo's @ 1bar on a 'street' r32 rb20det is perfectly fine providing its not leaning out or detonating. If its doing either kiss the turbo good bye.. Ensuring the tune is good is the key to longevity.

Port match it.

If the bottom end has super loose clearances bugger all oil will get to the head as its bled off in the bottom end. As a result the lifters tick.

Mines a late 92' and it has the twin fuel pressure reg's. I believe one is a dampener the other controls fuel pressure. Wonder if the s1's have a rail dampener up near the fuel tank.

140 is about right with std boost on a stock turbo. :S Stock turbo mine it felt slow. No real urge through the mid range. Mine made 152rwkw on 12psi stock ecu, 3" exhaust. Tuned ecu they make around 170rwkw with 14psi or so. Once i got 15psi in to it it transformed the car; gave it heaps more mid range. Drove it like that for 100,000km's ~3years until I finished building the new motor. As for mine. rb30det (r32 rb25de head) with all the standard bits + a gt30r on the std exhaust manifold. Same 3" exhaust.

My stock pump back in 2003 was leaning out at 152rwkw. Back then it had around 80,000km's on the clock. Prior back in 2002 the pump was fine; within a year it decided to get lazy.

The smaller the rear housing the more exhaust gas the wastegate must be able to pass. 9-10psi with the flapper wired open isn't too bad. With the stock rb20det turbo on the 3ltr and wastegate wired open with a bell mouth dump I was seeing 6.5psi. The difference is the boost level would peak then go flat across the rev range. IF yours continues to rise as rpm rises right until rev cut with the gate wired open then there is a creep issue.

I believe the head has been converted to solid lifters? Have you checked the clearances? The joy of modifying cars; if its not one thing its another. :S

The .82 IW GT35's don't creep on the 25t's; as for .63 thats a little bit of an unknown. What sort of dump do you have? Is it a split or a bell mouth? Bell mouths are best for IW's UNLESS you match the opening of the dump pipe to that of the back of the turbo. When the flapper opens it reduces the opening area of the dump pipes wastegate section; this is where you run in to issues if you simply slap in a 2" pipe for the wastegate and hope for the best.

The 1.06 on the 30det isn't too bad surprisingly.. It makes 1bar+ a little before 4000rpm. The only real difference to the smaller .82 is the .82 begins making boost much earlier in the rpm; the larger 1.06 seems to make no boost no boost then within 400-500rpm it brings it all on but linear and smooth. The 1.06 you loose that windmill feel at low rev's part throttle but by all means they still feel quite good on the 3ltr.

I have the fully hektic no bov noise. But mainly because im too slack to rip out the 4" inlet pipe and have a bung welded on to it for the bov.

MR R33, What sized rear do you have on the 3076?

The problem is..... How would he know unless he's played around with the timing to see where it stops making power or starts to knock?

That would be because your experiencing afm reversion so its dumping fuel in and accelerating the car slightly. Mine does it ever so slightly when coming off the throttle; the car does a couple of little lunges but its hardly noticable. With a stock sized inlet pipe it was quite severe and would stall quite often; with the 4" inlet pipe its fine. Never stalls but does let go some beaut flames if im giving it a little through the hills.

The std screw on bit for the actuator that came with my gt3076 was too short; I had a longer one made up. I have around 2mm preload which grabs 15psi and with the actuator at full reach allows the flap to open almost 90degree's. 2mm is approximately what the std turbo and std actuator has factory. If you place too much preload you will experience boost creep as the for every extra mm preload you place on the gate you loose with the max opening angle. Starting to go a little OT but what the hell. The only downside with very little preload is especially with the garrett 1bar actuators with the kink in the rod is they are lazy. With just the actuator I was seeing 8psi at 2500rpm, 11psi at 3000rpm and then 15psi at 4500rpm. With a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it it was making 19psi at 3100rpm. Thats a huge improvement in peak boost. ~1400rpm. For myself I was told the GT30's will boost creep if you don't run with a Bell mouth or at least put some effort in to the dump pipe and design it as HKS do. HKS have created the opening of the wastegate pipe as large as possible; this allows maximum gas flow with no hard edges for the gas to hit. The problem with the usual 3" and 2" wastegate style dump with the GT30's is when the flap opens it is unable to open a full 90degree's which would allow the full 2" opening of the wastegate pipe to be utilized; when its open say 45degree's with reasonable preload it partially blocks that 2" opening which is why these style dumps almost always boost creep with the GT30's. I followed the advice of who does the tuning on my car and with the std sized flapper but with a .8 rear I experience zero boost creep on the 3ltr by running minimal preload and a nice open bell mouth. Yes with out a boost controller boost is lazy but who cares thats what an ebc is for. HKS dump opening attached. All IMO.

Sounds like its leaking.. Try Tighten it up.

I recently had a good experience with a DOA antec psu in an 4480 antec case with MSY. Basically powered it up once turned it off then it wouldn't power up again. Tested the psu and it was definitely stuffed. So i called them up dropped the case off they tested it and gave me another; no fuss no questions all done. I've been fairly lucky with DOA computer bits over the years. The last DOA I had was 2 sticks of DDR corsair ram.

Sorry bud, I don't have the machine to check them out. Tighe cams usually send out a cam spec sheet with the cams. Have you spoke to the trans/stall people to see what they think?

Alex you wouldn't have the cam spec sheet on hand? I'm curious as to what centerlines they have set them up with out of the box. I've got engine analyzer setup which aids in selecting cam centerlines.

As simonmeister has said.. get the flapper looked at. Possibly when there's a little positive pressure pushing the flapper open it seats different when the actuator closes.

No unfortunately they are unable to get the size I am after.