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Cubes

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Everything posted by Cubes

  1. aaaannnnddd a snip from the rb30det guide if u looked at it like I said. shows the same thing side by side. You can see where the differences are and what needs to be modified.
  2. Just block the vct oil feed off in the head via the face then drill/tap a new feed for it. U can tell what to do by simply looking at the pics.
  3. I had the same thing when i first bought the car a good 7years or what ever its been now. replaced the switch and then soldered something up inside. its been good until recently where it went again I bought a perfect switch and this time i'll wire it up with relays.
  4. Page 1. Nothing states exactly thats you to yourself to look at the headgasket look at your head + the pics in the guide and think ok.. this needs to be done.
  5. or even better read the rb30 guide then look at the head and nut something out. if you can't give the head to your machinist and tell him what needs to be done.
  6. Good stuff Matty. Bugger I wasn't able to make it. How much did we all end up pulling together for you?
  7. cheers.. CBC definitely do a suitable bearing as I have replaced it some time ago but the old man with and his ham fist buggered the pulley smacking it in, now the bugger causes the belts to squeek. I've grabbed another will pop the bearing out with the press and bring it in. The press has to be one of the best tools I've bought; used it for almost everything. Any idea what I'm looking at for 3 of those gates belts? powersteer, a/c and water.
  8. Awesome.. about to replace all my belts. I'm also after a bearing for my a/c tensioner pulley. Will give you a call next week some time.
  9. LOL yeah is there any point in instantly deleting this thread... probably should be merged with the wasteland.
  10. I won't be making this one ppls.
  11. and a few others of the GTR. I found it difficult to take decent pics of it due to the light + flash + stupid plastic fence etc. Such a pitty Holden put a considerably better show than the hyped Nissan.
  12. There was this one.
  13. 250 is boring. Really need 280+
  14. Well go to some one else who has half an idea. Unsure how it is in tas but in little old country town Adelaide we have over 5 good tuners. There's only one that I wouldn't trust with my car. Im sure there is a decent tuner there in TAS surely there not all numb nuts. Regardless there's nothing special about an rb30det. Its simply a stroked rb25 so a dyno would have shown there's a fuel issue; at that point the fuel return would have been dropped and straight away it would have been known there is a fuel supply issue. That is standard fuel supply troubleshooting regardless if he didn't know an rb30det existed or not. If the dyno tuner can't do the above then he would not be operating. I hope you have a little more luck running the 30det on the stock ecu than I did. Anything above 6psi at 3000rpm saw fuel cut.
  15. But they do show afr's and able to measure fuel return flow. Well my dd dyno does. There will be a decent dyno out there. Surely.
  16. Replaced all those bits when a quick run up on the dyno would have shown what was up with it Its all good. Glad you got it sorted. Nothing worse than a gremlin that you can't track down.
  17. Unsure.. I wouldn't think so though. I was down there today.. Give them a buzz. I am fairly stoked with how little I paid for my stuff. All the interior bits etc go for literally nothing as he just needs it all gone.
  18. As many of you already know 179 South Terrace Z-Imports are having a CLOSING DOWN SALE! 50% OFF EVERYTHING. I have picked up some awesome bargains. Z-Imports have always had awesome prices. Head down there if your in need of any parts and save yourself some coin. Z-Imports, 8244-7911 179 South Terrace, Wingfield http://www.zimports.com.au R32 Diffs were ~$300 now ~$150 etc.. Drivers window rubber $5. Awesome prices as I said.
  19. I've found since Tim left prices have jumped up a tad with the new dude. Tim was a top bloke always did good deals etc..
  20. lol. Get it on a dyno with wide band shoved up its tail pipe and see whats going on. Shop around and find a workshop that has the nisscan or what ever the std ecu plug in monitor thing is called. There will be a work shop that can work on your car. Hell even if you have to tow the car 90minutes who cares. Beats having no car to drive. Also.. an rb30det with big cams etc is unlikely to use considerably more air at idle simply because the motor is not efficient at idle.. why do you think cam'd cars make less power at low rpm.. because the motor is pumping LESS AIR. I went from an rb20det to an rb30det. A good few years ago; std ecu, std afm, inj etc.. and have slowly built it up.
  21. Get it on a dyno. Surely there's a dyno in tasmania? A car is a car; your only diagnosing a simple issue. Also with regards to the airflow thing. My and others afm volts hardly increased on idle so something is up with yours if that is the case.
  22. Did it throw a rod due to poor build? rod bolts? detonation? what?
  23. Shove a genuine thermostat back in and throw it on the dyno to check the afr's and ignition timing.
  24. I would approach the company and demand something is sorted out. If he's still an ass sneakily follow him home and then approach him while in 'his' space. I'm sure he will then make time to get you out of his hair. Make your self a pain in the arse so he makes you go away!!!
  25. Bugger. Z-Imports I've found to be awesome; always gives a shit. Always made sure the part was wrapped up or layed a matt in my boot to ensure the car didn't get dirty.
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