Cubes

Im running rb25 wiseco forged pistons with the cut outs in my rb30. Its done 80,000km's so far without issues. I doubt the cut out is the root of all evil otherwise it would be well known.

All bets are she was on the mobile smsing. My sister is a culprit for this and driving home from work I often see (not generalising) but women driving in their little buzz box's swerving all over the road as they sms. If I see a bloke swerving he's usually trying to smoke a pipe or something lol My sister recently went up the arse of a car doing 60km/h; stuffed her back (squished discs), cracked her sternum and can't remember the accident. Car was unbelievably written off. Not the first time either; been up the arse of other cars 2 other times; both while playing with the damn phone. When I was at Uni; a middle aged lady used to pull out in front of me at the same time every day on the mobil phone and then not accelerate; i mean literally pull out in front so that it was either swerve or brake hard. I swear she never looked. haha my little rant. My sis has pissed me off; I hope she has learnt.

Saw the add on TV for it with the GTR up there being flashed on the screen with the best of them. I'll be heading down with the young lad, his camera and my camera in hand. Will be cool to see some of the pics he takes from his eyes.

If you go anything bigger than a std rb25 pump be sure to restrict oil pushing in to the head. If you run a JUN pump you will definitely have to look at both restricting oil to the head + providing a rear oil drain from the head to the sump. All of which is a huge stuff around. A new stock pump is fine. If you feel the need make the step to an N1 pump but do bare in mind even Nissan restricted oil to the head with their N1 motors.

Kind of off topic but.. Have you had that flat top end previously without the audible/noticeable miss? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...35#entry3667635 Bloke runs on the same dyno as I and we have nfi what the problem is. Suspected cam ramp rate maybe a tad steep not really sure.

Will be interesting to see if it is.

Top work. Whats with the power peaking and then tailing off as rpm increases? Valve springs? Head airflow is simply maxd out? Scroll back pressure poor ve?

with regards to fuel and shit. -- With gtr injectors (flowed 480cc at 40psi) and an 044 pump mine were approaching 100% duty over 250rwkw to hold a 12:1afr. They required a little more fuel pressure to get to 285rwkw at 17psi with a safe duty cycle. Im not sure about that equation you state. My own rb30det and another both running stock injectors cracked 180rwkw before afr's crept skywards of 12:1. Another rb20det running std injectors saw exactly the same inj. duty/afr/power level before fueling became a problem. A friend on the same dyno with an rb30det with gtr injectors is also saq very similar injector duty cycles/afr's at the same power levels on std rail pressure. Both of us have had to push rail pressure up once over 250rwkw. And another rb30det gt35r running std exh. manifold, plenum 18psi and making 312rwkw was seeing ~80-85% duty on his 550cc injectors. Now.. take the above in to consideration.. 312rwkw ~85% duty. 375cc injectors are ~68% of the size. 68% of 312rwkw is 212rwkw with 375cc injectors at ~85% duty. Which is what we also roughly see from stocker rb25's. The GTST runs around 36psi base. So.. all that crap said. You are obviously running higher than std fuel pressure and the good old fudge trick of a fuel/ign controller to get around r&r, lack of fueling and too much timing due to bending the airflow volts. If not Im curious as to how. No doubt youve made a post else where that Ive obviously missed.

Im curious as to how partial boost afr's are. Not just WOT dyno afr's. For 277rwkw the std afm will be maxing out so from the point of maxing out it may be metering enough air for say 220rwkw yet it has to push in enough fuel for 277rwkw. It will have to go pig rich at some point and then clear up. Im curious if seat of the pants its noticeable.

RB2530. What peak z32 afm volts were you seeing?

All clutches hiss just as they are starting to engage. Maybe you didn't notice it or maybe its as a result of the way I drive my cars.

GT3071 or GT3076 IW and you really can't go wrong from a bolt on perspective if you are chasing a fairly easy/lazy 270-280rwkw. The GT3076 if you wish to squeeze 300rwkw. Bolt on a GT35r to the stock manifold is just silly. They don't make more power than the GT30's unless they are paired with nice cams and most importantly a decent exhaust manifold. Port matching etc goes a long way. A bloke had a GT35r .82 on his rb30det; 270rwkw 17psi. No port matching. I port matched bolted up a GT3076r .82 and 268rwkw on 15psi. 17psi saw 285rwkw. So port match port match port match and don't go bigger than a GT3076r on the std exhaust manifold unless you want to accelerate slower to peak power of where u are for a 10th of a second.

Mine 'was' popping and farting like nothing else with the rb26 base ignition map. Partly due to the blocked bov but since having it tuned and pushing more ignition in to the trailing/idle map area's the pop/fart has completely gone. Upon decel its a hard fuel cut right up until 1100rpm. The stock ecu was the same. Have you checked the TPS to ensure its adjusted correctly? As can be seen by the attached pics the rb25/26 base maps run less ignition at less load compared to the 20. If you flick between the rb20/rb25 airflow curves and maps the light load uses pretty much the same map points. So I consider it a good comparison. The 26 does use light load slightly lower down the scale but as I use a single afm + a little tweaking I was using the usual load 2-3 on idle and decel with slight throttle input; having bugger all ignition in these values was causing the pop/fart for myself. I have a std ecu's rb20 and rb25 rom dump some where; they resembled the pfc's base ign. map almost identically.

There's 2 temp sensors. The dash and the ecu. If the ecu one is buggered it won't show on the dash.

I'd just go to the wreckers and ask for an R32 GTST 5speed. Many sell them for $500; shop around. Some rip off merchants here in Adelaide attempt to slug $900 for a 20t box. :S

Ahh shiet.. For some reason i thought it was an auto. Maybe shaun thought it was an auto also?

I have an RB30 with rb25 gearbox and used the 20 flywheel and clutch. I've also had a few rb20 gearbox's up behind it and no issues.

Hillzy; Take it to MV auto's. They do the RB DET gearbox's and know the jap shit.

Thats an old wives tail. R33 S1 and S2 are both push types. Only the GTR's are pull. I run a late model S2 R33 5speed in mine; appears to be fine. Hasn't broke yet.

All my clutches have hissed just as they start to engage. Even the old organic. Its normal. My exedy 4puk solid button shudders less then the old xtreme 9puk. Button = shudder if you try to ride them. If you do ride them say good bye to it within 20,000km's. I got 70,000km's out of my last ceramic 9puk but i would pop it when ever i could; avoid riding it.

Engine (ecu) temp sensor.

Mine has always had a little pop with the sparky's gapped at anything less then ~1mm. Richen the car up to 14.5:1 and the pop disappears. Mine currently idles and cruises a tad leaner than 15:1.

I jack my R32 GTST up from any point and all the doors close perfectly fine both with std and aftermarket hard suspension. I had an old VS commodore that when I would jack up the door would NOT close no matter what. I then read the manual and it stated do not open doors when the car is jacked up lol. Freaked me out when the door was sitting ~40mm off what it should have been. The VS had whiteline/bilstiens all round; reversing out of the drive way I could hear the front and rear windows creeking over the throb of the mildly tweaked 5litr poo. Sounded nice; didn't go all that well in comparison.

While on the topic of air temp sensors.. Some one wouldn't know the thread type of it would they.. I'm having a few issues trying to track down a thread tap for it.

I'm really happy with the proxes4. BUT they do tend to squeel a tad especially when hard on the brakes. I can brake hard enough so that they are constantly squeeling but not locking. Quite a progressive feeling tyre. No doubt t1r's are better but none the less these proxes4 are still excellent value for the $$. Next time.. I'm now can't wait to try the t1r's considering how good these proxes4 are.