Cubes

There's a pub on a corner down melbourne street i think it is where you go out the back undercover and cook your own meat etc... Was fairly good last time we went there some years ago. Nightcrawler may be able to remember the name.

I'd prefer this. 450hp supercharged vtec. http://www.zcars.org.uk/montecarlo/index.htm Would be quite scary I'd imagine. Oversized gocart.

Wouldn't it be cool if they were of a reasonable 'near' nengun style pricing. Then it would be cool.

Definitely makes it easier if you have access to a rattle gun. First time around I popped down the local profix; they removed the crown wheel bolts without a sweat. Second time around (s/h diff also untouched) I borrowed the old mans 18v dewalt rattle gun. No cursing no swearing the second time around.

I've never ran royal purple in the skyline. 8100 5w40 Whats the RP sell for? I know its expensive oil. There's only one place locally so I haven't looked in to it.

I like BLACK!!!

7years and ~200,000km's of my own km's. I ran it in the old RB20 from ~70,000km's to 180,000km's on the clock and also in the RB30DET that now has 80,000km's under its belt. RB20 still looked good when I pulled it out; comp ratio was perfect as was oil pressure. Its often $59 at Autobarn or motoquip. Last time I bought it at Autobarn they slugged me $64 for it but the label price was $59 so they refunded the $5 and I got it for the label price

For the average street/daily user I strongly believe you really can't go wrong with the Motul 8100 5w40. I recently had the head off after 70,000km's of use; it was super clean. Bores looked perfect. I couldn't ask for anything more. If the car is tracked often; not so much of a daily or can justify spending the $$ the 300v is the stuff to use. After putting the head back on I decided to switch to Shell Synthetic 5w40 the cheap grp3 stuff. All appeared ok apart from when the oil change approached 4000km's and then cut the filter open at 5000k. As 4000k approached the lifters would begin to tick slightly on cold start up; nothing major just a slight tick more times than not first thing in the morning. Cut the filter open - There was a smear of what looked like grease in the inner groove of the pleates. Motul 8100 5w40 went back in; when that was due an oil change I cracked the filter again; damn it was perfectly clean no lumps of what looked like grease. and lifters had not ticked at all. So back in went the shell synth 5w40; out it came a 5000k later and there were the lumps of grease again and the lifter tick had returned towards the end of the 5k. :S I'm not completely sure what was going on with the shell stuff; maybe just a coincidence. It was black and white to myself as I repeated the test over a couple of times. For the price the Motul 8100 5w40 really is the best bang for buck. Its a full grp4 base stock PAO oil. There's no other oil available for that price that is a PAO oil. Shell, castrol etc are all poo grp3 oils.

Youtube.... Whats with the spike at the end bumping power from 270rwkw to 297rwkw??? Essentially the power curve... 3000rpm - 35kw 3500rpm - 40kw 4000rpm - 50kw 4500rpm - 70kw 5000rpm - 95kw 5500rpm - 130kw 6000rpm - 190kw 6250rpm - 210kw 6500rpm - 240kw 6750rpm - 260kw 7000rpm - 270kw and then it spikes to 297rwkw.

Its a std rb20det turbo. Not what you state it is.

haha only stirring.

Microtech has a plugin ecu for the r33 that supports vct. The plugin is essentialy just the loom plug and base map. Usually with the microtechs they enable the vct at around 1300rpm then flick it off at ~4800rpm.

If you have the mods to handle 8500-9000rpm get the car on a dyno as you wouldn't want to break the thing. Chances are coils are buggered. or if its still an rb25det head the valves are floating.

You suck. No need to rub it in lol.

lol no need.. But yeah that just sucks 5secs away.. If only, I'd be running it just like dangerman4 ran cheater fuel for the dyno day.. lol *jk*

If your selling you obviously haven't modded it. I personally wouldn't consider selling mine unless it were growing huge rust holes. Simply because I have a daily and its the 'fun/thrash' r32 rb30det car is cheap that is as reliable as all buggery. I've owned modified commodores etc and they do not like the higher levels of power; they break. One reason I wouldn't consider selling it is because its pretty much one of the lightest R32's made so it always spanks the r33's and r34's making similar power. The heavier the car the more power is required the more expensive the clutch the more lag is required etc..

We only have the 98 vpower here in Adelaide. Im keen to check out the difference between the two fuels once/when I eventually run some decent boost; especially considering loonyman4 runs on the same dyno as I.

If only I had 100k. http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=12317

I tend to steer clear of mobil fuel had a few issues with increased knock levels in the past. BP98 and Shell v-power (98) appear to run just as well as each other.

Plugs - Top end can feel flat or worse case it can missfire. If they are really stuffed they will cause difficult starting and most likely missfire during heavy load. Coil packs - Missfire.

umm yeah i forgot about the 20psi before the cams thing. Either way its making some very respectable numbers. Keen to see it out and about some time.

Please do a search. The gauges are notoriously bung. Have your mechanic hook up a test gauge to ensure its all good or fit up an aftermarket item yourself.

Plugs look fine to me. Here in Adelaide we don't see extended idling so my plugs have always come out clean as a whistle. If you want to take a better pic place the sparkys on a table and then use the macro function of your camera. I've found 6's up to around 240rwkwish to be ok; over that they show as running too hot. I've since changed to 7's and the plugs have a much nicer tan colour instead of the porcelin coming out near shiny looking white after a few hard runs on the dyno.

Wasn't 250rwkw odd made with ~12psi once you done the cams and port matched the turbine housing + on a 35+degree day? Once you push 15-16psi in to yours it should be up around 280rwkw. Then the usual 18-19psi and 300rwkw which is the norm for an rb25det, rb30det with std exhaust manifold. Swap out the std exhaust manifold and you could make 350-360rwkw without too many drama's. But yeah.. it doesn't really sound all that angry in the vid + 16psi for 300rwkw with an xr6t turbo on an rb20 with cams does to my self sound a bee's dick high especially with a std exhaust manifold; but I try not to care. It would be interesting to see how much more is in it on that dyno as the std exhaust manifold on boostworx dyno really struggles once you push 290rwkw. Increasing boost nets small power increases and tops out around 300-310rwkw absolute max. Regardless if it has cams, big turbo's or what not.

There's no correlation between boost and oil pressure. It will be fine. If its the std ceramic turbo 13psi the turbo is on borrowed time regardless.