Cubes

TheProDaniel, In a month I'll have a set of cams and boost controller in mine; it should be making around 200rwkwish at 3500rpm and 240-250rwkw at 4000rpm going on to ~300rwkw at ~6500rpm. I'll take you for a little squirt; but in all honesty a well sorted rb25 with cams can provide awesome mid range with a well selected turbo. Personally I think simonr32's setup is now very nice. Sure the rb30 mid range and off idle is super nice but it really depends how far your willing to go. As it is now mine has more off idle acceleration than my uncles Manual VX Clubby. Both at idle; simply let the clutch out and accelerate. The V8's unless paired with an auto and stally really are not that crash hot off the line due to long gearing.

If you pull the head off and have a workshop fit them definitely spend the extra and have a set of decent springs fitted. Get the seat pressure up to 70lbs so you don't have to worry about float and a flat top end due to high boost and 7000rpm.

With N20 you shouldn't be melting the strap. Cara. Do you run a wet or dry system? Also steer clear of platinum plugs with n20. Use good old coppers or iridium.

Miss34.. The tune or something is up shiet creek. Detonation. Get it checked ASAP before you pop the motor.

It will be interesting to see how Spoolups RB30 3.4ltr stroker kits perform in comparison. Both price and performance.

Go the RB25det then. Regardless; suspension, highflow turbo, boost controller, remapped or aftermarket ecu are all insurance voiders if they were to get nit picky. When listing mods with an insurance company and they say yeah thats fine.. The fine print also states it must be legal.

The VG30 turbo sucks. Its nothing more than an rb20det cartridge with slightly larger comp and turbine housings. The rb25det turbo on the other hand has a similar sized exhaust housing but both a larger compressor and comp cover. Definitely the rb25det turbo over the vg30det turbo. Average power FTW.. It accelerates you quicker to that 200killawasps of where you only spend 1/10th of a second anyway. Unless the car is a track hack I wouldn't bother spending money on the rb20. Drop a rb25det in to it and make 2x the power with more off boost acceleration, more mid range, considerably faster spool and just so much nicer to drive. Or you could go the rb30det and spool a larger 525hp rated turbo the same as an rb25det spools its stock turbo. As for how much power... 200kw is quite lazy. 250rwkw+ is repeatedly 'fun' in a r32 gtst lightweight. 250rwkw as a streeter with an rb20 will no doubt have you loosing your license as it will require you to ring its neck to 'feel' fast. RB25DET or greater.

The idea of the 3ltr is it spools a larger turbo quicker and makes more power 'under' the 300rwkw curve. An rb20det can make 300rwkw but it will be as laggy as hell and have bugger all mid range. The rods fit but the pistons will NOT unless you also run with the rb26dett crank. The rb26 gains its additional 100cc by using a slightly longer stroke and pistons with a reduced pin height. Drop 'just' the rb26 rods and rb26 pistons in to an rb25det and the comp ratio will suck not to mention the piston sitting down the bore. So definitely not a wise move. No the rb30 has a longer stroke and rod length. So no. You can but the rb30/25 will ALWAYS make the power easier and be much more fuel effient and friendly to drive. Start working the sohc head with big cams to get near the stock flow level of the rb25det and fuel economy/driveability suffers.

What happened to Simon/car?

Thats really got to suck. BUT.. If it had more power/turbo it wouldn't have hit the front bar.

The problem is a lot of these dero scum bags simply have nothing to worry about.. Big deal if they get end up in lockup for a a year or two. Catch up with a few mates and then do some favors when they get back out. I have a side the family that is in and out of lockup quite often.

Makes me smile.. Hopefully it won't be long.

Thats a bugger.. I was speaking to a bloke down at Z-imports before they closed. He was telling me how ~1year ago or so he had a couple of ethnic dark looking blokes decide they were going to start ramming him for no reason. He managed to get to the police station where they took off and left him but without one last hard ram that bent rear control arms etc.. Apparently the same bloke had a mate that it occurred to up north except the bloke was beat up and car fairly damaged as well. No doubt stolen cars that they think hey lets ram this prick.

Front FTW. So much tidier and you can reuse your hicas lines etc if you get defected Your best bet it to do the job.. Once you start you will see what needs to be done.

Solution.. Have it removed. You don't need it. UNLESS you drive like an idiot everywhere foot flat to the floor, pull up with your seat belt off and instantly turn the car off. Over 7 years and 200,000+ km's I've never ran a turbo time and never had issues with coking and I've removed the turbo and oil lines to check. All clean as a whistle.

RussianE39, When I had mine on the dyno last we tried to track down the issue. Datalogit... nothing showed in the logs. PFC h/c absolutely nothing showed. No spike or dip in rpm etc absolutely nothing. All sensors read outs etc were spot on. All though it does sound similar it looks as if the suby's have got it considerably worse.

23rd of May for myself. Julie and I will be playing.

For a mild RB20 the remap is a good option. Almost every man and his dog can tune the R32 std ecu. 5years ago there was only Martin. Now there's mainly Jeff that floats. I know he 'used to at least not sure if he still does' work down at Boostworx for those that want a remap. However. If you plan to have multiple tunes to get it to the stage you want then a pfc works out cheaper. The only real advantage of the pfc is it has a 20x20 map vs the std ecu's 16x16; its interpolation is just as good as the std ecu; it has inlet air temp sensor correction (so good for mallala and those hot days). The pfc can be made to idle better/easier with big cams etc. So it really depends on the final goal. As for the ecu's auto knock retard that still let mine ping its arse off. I think its a load of crapola.. I'd rather have my dash light flash. How do u think those rb25det's pop their ring lands on the std ecu. Find out what the initial tune + tunes there after are worth. When I priced up they were up in the $800 for the initial then ~$500 there after. But times are changed and Jeff is now on the scene so find out what he charges.

ACL gasket paper ftw. I've used a tube of silicon in the past but it works out cheaper but harder to grab some suitable gasket paper.

s3girl who runs a stock rb30et (apart from cams) with a gt42 on the same dyno as I pulled 470rwkw @26psi with water injection preturbo. He ran it like that for quite some time. Pulled the turbo off and no noticeable wear on the compressor. He did say pre turbo requires a shit load of water in comparison to the way you have fitted it up.

You can either position it before the turbo is just before the throttle body. Nothing wrong with where it is

18's? When my 595's hit approx half wear they were extremely slippery in third. The slightest bump or slight bend and you'd find the arse end swaying around at 130km/h+ :S In comparison the Toyo Proxes4 provide 4x the amount of grip. The car went from roll on on in third gear wheel spin at 80km/h to still spinning in second but hooking up quite well and not a hint of wheel spin in third.

Simply grab a $45 navara drive, swap the rb25 cog in to it; cut a groove out of the body exactly 180degree's and whack it in. The r32 sender body will have the incorrect positioning; it will wear the cog poorly and eventually break it.

240rwkw 'maybe' 250rwkw if your lucky with simply bolting a highflow on. 260rwkw with cams from the highflow. Go the GT3071 and have the w/g ported from the word go and your looking at potentially more. Highflow option in my opinion is just crap. 240-250rwkw is slow; if you don't think it is then give it 3 days and it will be. For a car to consistently feel reasonably quick you really do need 280rwkw odd. Go with simons setup you really cannot go wrong. Skimp a couple hundred and go the highflow and your looking at disappointment. I've been for a spin in Simons and it is very impressive; to myself its not laggy; has awesome mid range and top end; and I hate lag.

I think along the same lines UNTIL you start making similar power levels of the rb25/26 etc. An rb20 making its peak power at 6500rpm compared to an rb25 making peak power at 6500rpm is moving the same amount of air through the motor. The problem is the rb20 has smaller valves so it needs the larger cams/lift to allow the same amount of air to move before the restriction increases. of which results in higher boost levels. But you are right comparing the rb20 to the sr20 I really think the rb20 has a huge advantage. 6pots with 30mm inlet valves vs 4pots with 34-35mm inlet valves.