Cubes

Maybe it was the setup? Were you running an aftermarket exhaust manifold? I run the GT3076r .82 IW on the RB30DET. That pretty much makes a psi straight off idle then ~5psi at 2000rpm; 9psi at 2500rpm and then 19psi odd at 3100rpm. Boost is fairly tractable with simply less throttle input; or I just grab the next gear and let the torque lug it out.

Mine used to hit it running around 15-16psi on the standard r32 turbo on an icy night or morning. :S Generally up at around 5000rpm. I then bolted the rb30det in with the stock ecu and it would hit the fuel cut around 6psi at ~3500rpm with the stock rb20det turbo.

The ultimate covert.. The PVC is blocked off but a hose is still connected for looks. A T piece runs to a catch can hidden under the inlet manifold. The pipe that generally connects to the inlet has been modified and plumbs in to another catch can that sits behind the a/c compressor.

Very nice.. There's just something about looking at a nicely Tig'd exhaust.

Looks nice.. Awaiting the results with the cams fitted. What cam specs did you settle on?

Where can u find a good 1600 for 1g? Eskys for a decent one are fairly expensive and rare.

Interested to see how this goes. I will be pushing mine to the limit soon as I'm fitting up a pair of cams (264 9mmlift). Finally get some reasonable boost in to it.

If the steering is heavy or craps its selt its because you have not removed the hicas correctly. Before after I much prefer no hicas; much more predictable and the steering actually feels a tad lighter and more willing/easier to make corrections mid corner. Kicking the car back etc is a load of crap; the rear steer is so little it will not kick the car back just make it feel not as predictable.

An observation. In the past when I used Shell 5w40 I found it to use around 500ml per 5000km's; run Motul 8100 5w40 and it literally doesn't appear to use a single drop. Another thing I noticed with the shell that I believe I have mentioned here is I found little chunks of what looked like grease/sludge in the oil filter.

I had a similiar issue some time ago shortly after i dropped the new motor in. replacing the earths with new and ensuring no paint on the mating surface fixed my issue. I now see ~14v and 13.8 with demister, lights, heater etc all on.

Thanks Rezlo. Much appreciated.

ok.

Im running a fairly crappy setup. A 450x300 with small 2" piping. My piping does a full 180degree bend in to the fmic on the drivers side running up underneat the fmic; so not quite as nice as the Blitz setup which has the end tank designed to accommodate the 180degree bend some what from memory? Mines making 268rwkw on 15psi and doesn't appear to be having any issues at the moment but its definitely not optimal. :S

That first pic was some other motor that I found via google. Yeah they aren't too bad but yeah the corrosion + I really am not sure if they should have absolutely no scoring or a little is fine. Running my nail over it its not perfectly smooth but the nail definitely doesn't catch on it so to speak. Rezlo.. Thanks for the pics buddy. The RB's have the anti drainback located in the block. I'll head down before work starts and have them checked out juuuuustt incase. Wouldn't want to scatter alloy fillings through out the motor. :S Some more pics that I took in daylight. The inlet is definitely in better nick than the exhaust but one still has corrosion/cancer. Couldn't get down to have them checked out today. Will have to be next monday now.

Thats correct if you use the rb30 SOHC head but when you run the DOHC head they consider it the same as a stroker; of which requires an emissions test. Where did you get the 400hp limit from? The rods are quite strong; the only thing they don't like is rev's. I've seen up to 630rwhp (470rwkw) pushed through a set of stock rods without issues. 7000rpm rev limit and they are good for pretty much what ever your throw at them.

Sure less piping but the air at the end of the tank hits the flat end tank then has to perform a harsh 180degree turn to head back through the fmic = quite a large pressure drop. But it will work. As for whats better. This setup or a pipe that does a 180degree bend and then travels back I'm not sure. Unless you go back to back you probably won't notice.

3.5" is fine.. Apart from them being louder than a similiar setup 3" they are a good thing when pushing over 250+rwkw

R1R - http://www.toyo.com.au/Proxes%20R1-R%20page.htm Those that have ran them are saying they are very sticky.

Cheers Shanef and thanks all. Gulp/Swallow.... Here's the pic of the exhaust cap 7 to 2 from left to right respectively. Closer inspection. The black marks on cap 7 is actually corrosion. :S I do remember it being there ~80,000km's ago when the motor first went in; it doesn't appear to look any worse from 'memory' but it was a long time ago. The camera has shown up fine scratches that i can't actually see by eye unless i get really really close and shine it on certain angles in the light. You can see the polishing on the lower (pic) side of the cap. If it has to be line bored it has to be done.

Nizmonut... You can't buy replacement journals for these I am led to believe. GTR1993. There's no oil supply issue that I know of. I pulled the caps off quite some time ago and there were still a few light lines inside the caps all though they almost looked like machining lines; to touch they can't be felt. The only difference to now is 1 of the caps mainly has got a tad worse which is concerning and it just happens to be cap 6. Even though the mark is visible it can't be felt. I am however running a single 1.5mm oil restrictor and blocked rear as recommended by SK. There's no hydraulic lifter tick and plenty of oil floating around. Oil pressure is spot on and doesn't bleed off on idle. I've found a few other pics of caps that also appear to have the same strange circular lines inside the caps. Its also interesting that the lines are ONLY on the cap not the actual tunnel/lower half; the tunnel/lower half looks spot on. BUT I would expect it to as there is next to no load placed upon on it. Possibly time to take them down for a check up at the local workshop to see what can be done.

Since pushing in ~12mm of cradle rake; new shocks and fitting a set of 225/50 16 toyo Proxes 4 it only occasionally squeeks the rears through second with the rb30det making ~270rwkw. damn good for 225's

Ahh yes it is most definitely.. BUT over 300rwkw the rb25 head tends to make it just that little bit easier. My own head has a little work done to it (port polish, valve deshroud); comparing to the rb25det head on the same dyno with same turbo mods etc it appears to be making power slightly easier when under 300rwkw. Will be good to see how it goes when pushing over 300. What cams were you running with that combo? I'm in the process of bolting in a pair of 264 9mm's (see my cam cap scoring possible issue in the forced induction section)

Hey ppls, I've recently pulled the cams out to find there's a little scoring and some polishing on 2 of the cam caps. All pretty much have ever so slight scoring but only 2 have what is noticeable so to speak and one looks a tad concerning. Is this normal? I've pulled the caps off an rb20det I have here and it has the same but not as bad as the one that is a tad concerning. The tunnel is perfect absolutely no scoring what so ever. its only on the caps. Is it worth attempting to try and polish/linish out the slight marks or just slap it back together with the new cams? One last thing to mention is on the surface of some of the cam caps i can see what looks like a black mole... doesn't look burnt just ever so slightly black; much like what a light black skin spot looks like with its faded edges.

No it won't grip especially with a set of 18's. Consider a set of R888's or if on a bit of a budget toyo's new R1R. Might be worth while tracking down spoolimports to see what he runs with his 380rwkw rb30det as I do remember he made mention he has his hooking up pretty much from first to fourth.

Are u sure its turbo light 8100? The turbolight is a semi-synth grp III oil where as the 8100 is a full synth grp iv oil. The so called 'synthetic' castrol is only a grp III based oil. So not really a full synthetic in a pure sense. There was a court case years ago; they won on technicalities and were allowed to sell a group III oil as a true synthetic. Many then followed (valvoline, shell amongst a few others). Motul, Royal Purple, Mobile have all stuck to the synth is synth and not ripped off the cust in that respect. But either one.. the Motul is better value for money; the castrol your paying for crap but it still works fine. I've ran Motul 8100 5w40 since day dot in the rb30det (~80,000km's) bores looked brannew and the head was super clean when it was pulled off not so long ago for valve springs. For what you get it is the best value/performance oil u can get at the $60-$75 price point.