Cubes

Definitely agree. A large turbo sucks.. The GT28 on the rb25 and a GT30 with a .82 rear on the rb30 is the perfect match. 268rwkw... Mine had no issues getting power down in second with 225/50 16's. I ran wider Nankang NS2 245/40 18's at one stage and they had half the grip of a decent 225/50 16. All though the 16's don't look as good. 18's just don't grip; cornering they are excellent. I've also had cheapish 225/50 16's that would skate around through third gear from 80km/h until 150km/h and twitch in fourth by simply rolling on the throttle in third.

Vspec is coming.................... The Corvette is no doubt a machine; but damn look at how hard it looks to drive compared to the GTR. For the usual driver I have no doubt one would run a better time in the GTR than the Corvette.

Tilbrooks have closed down in the past They then reopened and looks like they are now shutting down again?

440's are good for ~260rwkw and can be squeezed to around 290-300rwkw with some additional fuel pressure. 550's are usually good for a 'little' over 300rwkw before they require more fuel. If it were myself... Go a set of large sard twin spray 800's they atomise fuel well and then you have the option to tune on E85 and pull an additional 30rwkw out of it and pay less for fuel.

R34's vct is no different to the R33's. The R34 doesn't have vct on the exhaust. The difference is the head; the r34 runs solid followers so cams that have a more aggressive ramp rate.

Sounds like you have split a vac hose that the boost guage and EBC takes its reading from. check all vac hoses and look for a t-piece or y-piece in the case of the blitz ebc

Not true It doesn't matter they are the same when it comes to the r33 rb25 head. The R32 rb25de head has the same shape port as the rb20det but larger. Its only 'slightly smaller than the r33 rb25 heads inlet port. Nothing to worry about. Depends what car it is going in and your goals. Not true. depends on the power you are chasing. High 300rwkw and you really should be looking at big lift cams; solid followers which = no vct.

Sounds about right. Little more boost will pick up 20-30rwkw but its the mid range that is worth while. Accelerates you to that peak power considerably quicker. Bugger injectors and tune the sucker on E85 for 240rwkw on the std turbo. Nothing wrong with E85. I'll be grabbing myself some larger injectors and retuning.

Damn look at that torque curve.

So your saying if you applied 900nm to the crank the usual single plate clutch would not slip? Or have I misunderstood. I think the problem is a fair amount have had their balancer come loose and let go. Most likely due to track use?

Shove a jack under the bottom of the strut, line it up and jack the bastard up. Or stand/jump on the hub.

No problems.. Providing its been powered off for a while pull the top off yourself and check out the caps; see if the top is bulged and or leaking. If so then thats the cause. www.badcaps.net is where you can obtain good capacitors for an excellent price. I've got some from there on a few occasions for various old motherboards and PSU's. I've had a few other antec's let go in different manners in recent times. One took out a new motherboard and burnt the PCB of the power supply. I was told 'after' the power supply was making a high pitched noise prior to letting go. If only I was told prior. Another one simply died with no reason for it doing so. So no more Antec's for myself they have done their dash. Seasonic all the way. I believe some of the new Antecs are made by Seasonic. (neo etc) but still only genuine seasonic as you never know when they will change manufacturers.

rad33... When taking it for a bit of a boot take note of the peak afm volts... Hows the highflow feel compared to the stock turbo at 14psi? stock turbo feel like an easier quicker street turbo on the rb20? When I had a larger turbo on my rb20det it felt like it was slower to 100km/h and required lots of rev's off the mark and only once in third was it quicker. The sad fact is you'll always get used to the power.. 250rwkw+ feels quick but you quickly start to think it could feel quicker.

Shaun; You'll never break the cam belt as all the cam belt does is spin the cam shafts.. The rubber band feel is the driveline and most likely the IRS rear forcing the arse end down. Which is why I drop it in 4th 1:1 as I'm not keen on placing so much load through the drive line even though it should be able to handle it. I've placed a hell of a lot of load on mine without breakage; the leverage I've had I had to shorten as it was hitting the bonnet. It should qualify for VFT I've always hit the bolt with a wire brush to clean up the thread and then applied red loctight.

I had mine tuned slightly leaner last time around so the o2 sensor was disabled. Still did it. Almost always when cruising and coming off the throttle only slightly and then back on 'slightly'.

I usually use a square galvanised fence post/stake; only just slides over the breaker bar and is fairly easy on the hands as it has a flat surface. Then rock hard/bounce against it and before you know it its off. I've also used a dewalt 18v rattle gun; removed the std rb20 one that was impossible to get off when the motor was out of the car.

The S2 afm is the same as the S1 afm and r32 rb20det afm with regards to voltage vs airflow; only difference is the plug. Mine hit 5.1v at around 180-185rwkw. You shouldn't be experiencing a fuel cut with the pfc.

hahaha... As they say.. Keeping it real.. There's next to no difference between the turbo's and N/A's unless your constantly up the turbo of which on the street isn't all that often. Nothing wrong with the dark side. I'm waiting for some one to post a progress thread of a mean rb30de n/a or rb25de n/a - 12:1 static comp running on E85 loping like nothing on earth; thats really why I'm lurking.

Car: R32 GTST Mods: RB30DET GT30r .82 @ 15psi; GTR injectors; RB25DE head ported polished & valve deshroud. Driving style: Brisk acceleration always on a little boost with the occasional (at least once per drive) WOT Driving conditions: Local 50-80km/h Fuel brand: Shell 98 Ltr's for a full tank: 50litres KM's per tank: 450km's (RB20DET used to get 470km's when it was running 1bar on the std turbo and std ecu) New O2 sensor, New Z32 afm, recently flowed and cleaned injectors, no vac leaks and just a good tune. Just dropped a set of 265/263 (221deg @ 0.050") 9mm cams in... Will be interesting to watch fuel economy plummet. 110 Inlet LCA; 115 exh LCA; 112.5 LSA so it idles smooth but just a bit deeper/throbs more and louder.

I recently spent... M/board - $130 CPU - $90 4GB ram - $90 Vid - $100 Has no issues running GRID at 1680x1050 with medium settings; BF2 at full settings, COD4 at medium. The cpu is clocked to 3ghz on stock volts (333x9); ram running at 800mhz. Runs perfectly the young lad loves it in GRID; dropping burnouts and putting the brake on as he puts it. It runs the games I like most quite well; COD4 and BF2. Hell even Crysis it did damn well. The system is not cpu bound so throwing a better vid card at it will no doubt increase in game performance noticeably. Its still running on an old Antec 380w truepower that I recapped a couple of yearse ago due to the typical leaky fuji caps. The PSU seems to be handling it well and given the watt calc requirements it should be perfectly fine. Realistically the only time you require a topline PSU is when running the super hungry GX2 failing that a Seasonic 430w or 550 will cut it for all other applications unless your some hard drive whore.

Exactly the same reason I've never bothered selling up the old R32. Simply keep making it faster and enjoy it as a little fun car that is occasionally driven. Its cheap; don't owe anything on it and its really not worth selling. But great fun and brings a smile to my face every time I drive it.

All I'm saying is I too was just like yourself until the Core2 Duo systems.. For a 'normal' gaming system for some one with a budget they are far better off running decent brand cheaper ram like Kingston, supertalent or A-data and then pushing the $$ they save in to possibly more ram, better hard drive, bigger monitor or a cpu with a higher multi. Upgrade have a play and see how much ram really does not affect the performance of a c2d system; $$ much better invested else where. It really is considerably different to the old AMD's and how they really love low latency and fast ram. With the C2D systems if you are squeezing the system and pushing over 400fsb (800ddr2) and max'd out the cpu's multi grab that quicker ram as its most definitely beneficial as it allows a quicker cpu. If not well its simply money wasted. If you hunt around there's a few articles on the c2d system, latency, ram speed and fsb speed and how its all fairly immune. My findings are the same. Raw clock speed FTW.

These days you can pick up good/reasonable 4gb ddr800 'a-data/kingston or supertalent' ram for $90-100. MSY are soon to sell OCZ 1066 for 149 with a 4gb kit. Throw in a E7200 or E8200 and you can easily run the 800mhz ram at 1:1 and push 4ghz providing you obtain a decent board. If not well you need better ram. Be buggered if I can notice the speeds in windows with faster lower latency ram. Quicker cpu and more ram most definitely. The jump from 2gb to 4gm within vista was very noticeable. Ahh you really need to upgrade. The new systems are unbelievable how well they overclock on stock volts. We still use AMD's with 1gb of ram at work. Not that they need any more as its only network and intranet stuff.

Never suggested tweaking latency was an overclock. I completely understand the theory behind latency but real world results with the current line of Intel systems simply does not translate. Everything you have stated is correct in your following posts HOWEVER with the current line of Intel systems they simply do not respond to ram overclocking and lower latency's like the old systems used to. If you can save a few $$ on ram its well worth pushing the money in to a better vid card or CPU that is more suited to a better/easier overclock. Most cannot throw $$ at a top line system if they are paying off a house or have a partner.

Im with Rolls.. 1066mhz with a reasonable brand ram (not yum cha) and your laughing. 1:1 and that leaves you with a 533fsb. Chances are you will hit the chips fsb wall if not the m/boards before you can max out 533. There's simply no need to overclock ram these days. Most importantly the new Intel systems really do not see huge benefits as the amd or older systems used to by squeezing the ram Intel systems do not feel the pain from slightly higher latency as the AMD systems do. Good brand ram is perfectly fine. Thrash it in memtest (5 & 8) if its good its good. I've had a good run with a-data and kingston for friends/familys and even my own PC. In the past yeah I've ran with ocz and corsair but these days its simply not needed unless you really want to pay 4x the cost for 0.05% increase in performance due to the lower latency. Save your penny's and put it towards a better vid card.