Cubes

I've ran King Bi-metals. A little more expensive but good for 90,000km's so far. A nice little post from proengines. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1628849

RB25 and 26 use a completely different scale.

Std rods are fine for 500-700hp providing rev's are kept sensible. Rev's is what kills the rb30 and std rods. By the time you spend $$ on the std rods you may as well buy a set of SpoolImport rods that come with arp rod bolts.

Ahh sorry bud that was your self stating what if. :S Maybe the std log manifold just doesn't like the large duration on the exhaust.

Sorry bud no can do as it was on the dyno soon realised it needed more work so pulled it off and didn't bother playing with adj. cam gears and finishing it off. Boost is dropping to 17psi from whatever I push in to it. It is on an rb30det so they tend to have a little more mid range and super responsive. 3500rpm - 200rwkw 4000rpm - 256rwkw 5000rpm - 288rwkw 6000rpm - 302rwkw 7000rpm - 290rwkw Cams need playing with as I want peak power up around 6.5k; currently its running a fair bit of overlap which hurts/flattens out the top end. Realistically there's not much more in it as the stock exh. manifolds typically top out around 300-330rwkw depending on how well everything is working. Has a couple of things holding it back.. small fmic with 2" piping :S weak/lazy actuator thats blowing open.

I'm not sure if you have mentioned but I saw you have oversized valves. Are the install heights correct? Maybe they are off slightly which has reduced seat pressure resulting in valve float once you get some decent cams with higher ramp rate in to it? When mine was floating I had huge issues with trying to push ignition timing in to it past 4000rpm; it would simply ping.

Nice setup apart from the PSU. Corsair or Seasonic PSU. They are the same thing. The 640AAKS is a very quick drive.

Mine worked out ok. Dropped in a set of regrinds 265/263 picked up power everywhere >2000rpm. Went 302rwkw at 17psi std manifolds gt3076r .82.

If your running a PFC you can flick between the zirconia and Titania calibration. I can confirm the calibration is completely off/different between the two so there's no way you can get one working with the other calibration. Only issue is the plug.

On the HKS USA website they list: HKS3037 - 2.75" inlet - Rated at 420/440/470ps 48/52/56 Trims respectively. HKS3037S - 4" inlet - Rated at 450/480ps 52/56 Trims respectively. The 4" inlet apparently helps in the order of 10ps.

Forged here.. Mine slaps on cold start slightly... No increase in knock. Nothing to do with the wastegate... Its knocking as its detonating. Its knocking when you launch it hard because you are loading it greater than the dyno is able to do so. As a result it knocks. The tune is not conservative enough for road conditions.

If anything a cropped turbine will place a greater requirement on the wastegate. As with the XR6T turbo's.. When they slap a larger flapper in there they have to go a tougher actuator and even still its a fine balance between going to big resulting in blowing the flapper open and creep. You also went with a good bell mount dump didn't you? In your case I would simply shove an 18psi actuator on it and be done with it. It will spool well and hold 18psi up top.

Wasn't me.... Mine struggles to get sideways as my right foot doesn't allow it to get that out of hand.

Simonr32 went the .7 cast rb housing; dropped a larger flapper in it that pretty much resolved issues. Give me some boost creep mine tails off to 17psi.

The H/C does store the peak value which is very important.. If it reads high its detonating. 'Noise' just doesn't happen out of the blue. Problem cars always read high; some read high ONLY on start up and then fine there after. I always completely ignore the datalogit's knock values as it always damn misses knock that the h/c pics up and well before I can hear it. Always use knock cans and the h/c datalogit is great but do ignore its knock readings. Never really had any issues up top with knock when coming off a dyno its ALWAYS at the lower rev's lugging it up a hill and coming on to boost. Or grabbing third at 60km/h and lugging it away. Easy fix. Grab fifth on the dyno and pull it through its mid range.

Yeah its not that big a deal still way way quicker than using the hand controller but realistically some one who's worked with powerfc's for years can get them tuned quickly via the hand controller. There's no reason why you can get full wot and part throttle tuning done within 1-2hrs providing you don't run in to any issues. My guess is the tuner has been spoilt and used to tuning with ONLY the datalogit. Its funny as my tuner is quicker with the hand controller and prefers the hand controller for tuning. Obviously he still breaks out the datalogit to make adjustments that are not available via the h/c.

He will if he is going to hit the track.

hahah Awesome Darren. I would...

Well that sucks... When I was sorting out mine I was told otherwise. $380 for regrinds for either rb25 or rb26 cams to build up and then grind. I picked up a set of rb26 cams for $60 and had them done.

So your not running an oil cooler? If you car is running hot its not suitable for track work until you sort its issues.

Tighe cams in QLD.

Well guys it looks like were putting off that SAU cruise/bruise past the dads place then.

I haven't actually played with the cam gears yet.. Left them as is as there's still a bit of work to be done with the 2" fmic piping etc. Im still getting my head around cam specs etc.. My understanding is there's: ~39degree's overlap seat to seat and -4degree's overlap at 0.050" R32 RB25DE cams: ~8degree's overlap seat to seat. No idea at 0.050". All though I believe 0.050" overlap you ignore? R32 RB20DET cams: ~5degree's overlap seat to seat. R33 RB26: ~7degree's overlap seat to seat So it is running a fair whack of overlap. I was pretty way off. Cranking pressure now sits at 155psi vs 158psi with the std cams. But whats wierd is this engine analyzer pro is stating there's 28degree's of overlap?! :S The cams are unfortunately as big as you can go without seriously looking at valve springs, solid lifters and machining the buckets. The 26 head is a much better starting point for 350rwkw+. What I have unexpectedly experienced is a very noticable improvement in economy. We didn't play with the ignition map its the std rb26 one. The afr's were set back to 15:1 and that was it. Driving the car to work the last week and quite a bit of driving on the weekend its consistently floating between 10.5-11L/100km's. The last tank pulled 480km's out of 52litres. You may be able to help me get my head around the following. Retarding (or is it advancing?) the inlet cam does that numerically increase the Inlet LCA which widens the LSA and as a result decreases overlap. And the exhaust.. retarding or advancing does that increase the LCA or decrease numerically? :S Inlet LCA of 115, Exhaust LCA of 118 gives an LSA of 116.5 and 31degree's of overlap. Reduced overlap might help that restrictive gt30 .82 rear end up top.

lol a little like myself... I picked up free old mazda 626.. started to sit and draw thinking about how to strap a turbo on to it. Now have a VN dunnydoor.. doing the same thing lol VN's a really are buckets. Good thing it has been passed down.

hehe.. depends on what falcon.. the older ones are plagued with crank end float issues and head stud problems. Falcons definitely a better pick than the commodores especially for towing. See if you can pick up an old EF/EL 4ltr 5speed then umm strap a turbo on to it. 1550kg kerb weight vs the BA's 1700-1800kg. = power to weight FTW I used one of those cheap $5 1/4" drive ratchet kits from supercheap that come with philips head bits. You can get heaps of weight on to it + leverage so they crack easily.