Cubes

I'm unaware of the recent developments as I've just got back from interstate. Regardless... This thread is here to stay providing Red keeps it clean and there's no arguments. Knowing Red that's pretty much impossible. He always tends to arc people up some way or another. Red can post his 'original' library book scanned images. If your not keen on this thread unsubscribe. If he doesn't have an audience well the thread will die.

Last time I angered Red he threatened to steal my car. lol I'll leave this thread for Red to do what ever he wishes. If he's a good boy i'll leave it. See how we go.

I would reply with 'no probs small knob' but I won't.

Red have you cruised down the local library to post on SAU? http://www.libraries.sa.gov.au/public/cont...ary.asp?xlid=63

No.

Just got back from a 5 day trip to Melbourne. Hired a VE SV6 Commodore with 23k on the clock. At first I began thinking about 6ltr + turbo + 275 sticky tyres and its traction control working nicely. THEN.......... Soon discovered it already has a whoopwhoop wheel bearing thats on its way. A nasty arsed harmonic that occurs on some road surfaces that drives you absolutely insane at ~110km/h. The centre dash grill looking thing is already peeling up. A rattle in the drivers door A rattle in the dash over reasonable bumps Doors close like and thud like a cheaply made Korean car. Feels as if the spring rate needs to be a tad tighter for the weight of the car and rebound tightened up as it has way too much body roll and seems to launch in to the air over wavey dips in the road at high speed. Definitely not 'sports' suspension like the older VS/VT's had. Brakes feel soft and not confidence inspiring through the hills. Its fairly sluggy overtaking from 90-100km/h and really hits a brick wall at 140-150km/h. Feels like it really starts to push the wind. Fuel economy on the open road is 8.5L/100km's. City is around 12.5l/100km's driving it really soft. Looks as if build quality has not improved since my last Commodore (VS 5ltr 5speed) that I bought with low km's when it was only just 2years old. Definitely wouldn't sink 40k in to one which is what the SV6 is worth. Quite disappointed as I really began to think about a nice big cubed v8 with a turbo hanging off it.

Mine see's only 'just' under the 8 on the stock guage when driving and approx 7.5 on cold idle. Once warm ~6-6.5 max. Always has for 90,000km's so far. :S

Say whaaaaat?

Strange you max'd it out at 255rwkw. Mines pushing ~5volts at 302rwkw. Boost leak?

Why? :S

.63 = ~370rwhp not much more on pump If you insist on the .63 run with the GT3071r.

If your still running the stock manifold there is absolutely ZERO to gain by going the GT3540. On the same dyno my own car and a mates basically identical apart from one having the gt35 the other the gt30. Both made near identical power on the same boost. I've since dropped cams in which has pushed power up to 302rwkw on 17psi with the GT3076r .82 IW. The .63 I doubt on 98ron pump fuel will push 400rwhp 'easily'. You really need the .82. regardless it will still be a lot more responsive than the gt35 .82. Especially in the lower gears and corner exit etc.

Next to no difference between rwkw and awkw with the gtr/gts4's.

Definitely good value. Consider there's no need to purchase that Z32 afm for $300.

Mine was maxed a little over 180rwkw as well as another mates. Perfectly normal. You can tune them up to around 220rwkw odd but its a fairly rough tune. Essentially when the afm max's out you push in enough fuel at that load point to handle the boost being run. So what occurs is say its tuned for 15psi but the afm max's out at 12psi when it hits 12psi it runs the ignition timing and enough fuel for 15psi so not optimal. But really you never try (thats if you were good enough to be able to do it) to hold 12psi at part throttle with the afm only just maxing out so usually it goes unnoticed. The Z32 allows for a fair bit more scope. Mine went from maxing the std afm out to ~4.2-4.3v on the Z32. Then ~268rwkw was ~4.7volts and now 302rwkw is high 4.9volts on occasions flat 5volts on those cold nights. So nearing its limits again. :S

Unsure exactly what you mean by extra wire. The SR20 uses 2 wires just like the rb26 does. They sensors look identical apart from their part number. Most likely just slightly different tuning of the knock sensor? Its quite possible the sr20 might work. Possibly the 26 knock sensors are just a little more sensitive?? unsure

The maps are basically a direct copy HOWEVER the load points used for a given airflow value is slightly off as the PFC runs a 20x20 vs the std ecu's 16x16 load map. As a result the pfc usually ends up running a tad more ignition at wot which usually causes the car to det. In my experience anyway. Depends on the level of tune/mods/boost. Would likely be fine for a car running std boost.

Pretty much answers it just there. They are up under the inlet manifold.

I'm in + the better half. Foooookin sik/hectic what ever it is they have VOUCHERS on their website. BUT WTFBBQ they have no chicken parmi.

If its idling high check for a loose hose clamp or vac leaks. Might be worth grabbing a can of start ya bastard and spraying it around the fmic and all joins to see if there is a vac leak. A fmic will soften the power delivery. I also was a tad dissapointed when I first went an fmic. BUT what it does allow you to do is run a little more boost and make more consistent power after you give it a hiding. Prior to the fmic mine felt quite crappy in third gear after I had given it a few full throttle runs.

I can vouch for Sullivan_a's clutches and speedy honest service. I run one of his Exedy GTR Sports ceramic 4puks. probably a little overkill for what your looking at. Not a hint of slip at 300rwkw. But what is important is the motor is making a heap of torque (200rwkw at 3500rpm and 256rwkw at 4000rpm) without any sign of the clutch slipping.

lmao awesome catch.

So who uses VoIP? I've been with MyNetFone for quite some time now and really can't fault their service. Signed up via the MyNetFone whingepool/whirlpool offer. $4.95 per month for 60 free national calls untimed then 10c untimed national and 15c per minute per second billing. We don't use the phone a great deal but still manage to save a good $80 per month as we often make national and mobile calls. I'm on the Home Line Budget $19.95 Helstra plan with ADSL2+ from Internode. For those that are shopping ensure you run a quick traceroute to the sip server you are looking at to ensure the routing isn't stupid from where you are located. MyNetFone from Internode in Adelaide is ~40ms away with a traceroute you couldn't improve. Don't buy an ATA device that plugs in to your modem as a lot of modems suffer what is known as a NAT bug; splash out another $40 or so and buy an All in one modem/router/wireless/voip box. Preferably a billion 740x as they work well and are easy to configure.

RB20 det sensors are different. So they simply do not work. Its not necessary to change the sensors providing the tune is good you don't have to worry. I didn't change det sensors for quite some time. Just keep an eye out for a pair of 26 sensors when they pop up grab.

Standard exhaust manifold red hot? I would be concerned.