Cubes

Depends on the power they are making at 22lb/s and on what motor. More than likely related to the IW setup in your case. Get a stiff actuator on it or a split dump so boost creeps

I do have the cam sheet. All though your requirements will differ as you are blessed with solid followers. Tighe did reduce the base circle some what however it doesn't appear to have created any problems. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=173055 Unsure if a hammering can cause it to dislodge.. Possibly. Grab a can of start ya bastard and check for vac leaks bfore you go to the trouble of pulling everything off. If the spring flicks off you can hook it back on and secure it a little better. The std gasket will most likely break so grab some ACL gasket paper (the hard yellow paper) as its the correct thickness. If you have used a 280zx/R30 style resistor pack its as simple as heading down to the local auto store picking up a Navara 8pin? from memory plug and connecting each pin to each other (bridge) via wires. Then remove the resistor pack and plug in the bridged plug.

AAC usually results in idle hunt/stall. IAC is always too high.

Grab some carby clean. They almost always gum up and cause idling issues. If its idling too high there's another valve that may be the cause. IAC valve. The spring can dislodge and cause a constant 1000-1500rpm high idle.

Its definitely not that bad. Sure cars get stolen. I've owned mine for close to 8years. Never touch wood has an attempted been made to break in to it. The only harassment you may get with the Suby is some young 'bogan' yelling out to you PSSSHHHTTT as you drive past. I must admit turbo's are much more accepted these days compared to 7years ago though. When I first bought mine I would receive nothing but PSSHHHTT remarks from late teens early 20 yo kids. Now its more of a point look oh its a skyline fully sik do a burnout.. lol

It did jack me off a tad especially as my previous car was a 2yr old VS 5ltr 5speed commodore that after a few mods simply fell apart. Diff broke, gearbox broke and rear irs subframe broke. So got rid of it and went jap. Haven't looked back.

You were not around back in the early 90's Bathurst? Nissan came out on top and every one was booing them on the podium. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_ATwXUtxPA Its a redneck attitude.. Aussy V8 is best. Jap = cheap crap. Nothing hard to understand about it.. Its the same in the US. You can run in to road rage in any make car however own a Jap performance car and road rage may be increased due to the bogan red neck attitude. A majority of the time if I have some one pull up hard behind me at the lights i look back and its a bogan in an old Holden. Either that or a young lady with P plates. When building up my rb30det some years ago. I called around quite a few workshops some completely turned me away stating jap crap should not be rebuilt and placed in a wrecking yard. I was quite amazed at the attitude of some workshops.

Copper Silicon FTW.

Its more than likely due to bogans not exactly liking 'jap crap'. They see a young lad in the car size them up and they think they will have a little fun. Thats all there is to it so most likely why there is a high prelevance of the 'bogan' road rager amongst the import community. I've only ever been road raged twice both when I was younger. Both were what I would consider bogans.

I believe permacool offer an inline thermostat. Might be worth looking in to.

Post pics.

That would depend how convincing you are when you state the tyre iron slipped off as you were pushing it and hit the other bloke in the head bounced off the ground then hit him again. lol

Interesting.. Mine was straight off the actuator with no EBC or bleeder. With the bleeder it wouldn't hold boost.

R32 disk brakes Explode?? LMAO. The R32 Turbo is very N/A like. A little bit of boost/exhaust and fmic they are quite hairy and can quite easily run a flat 14sec 1/4.

It was lightly tidied up.. Rebuilt + port polish and valve deshroud set me back 1k. Standard valves. Feeling the port inside especially the exhaust side was quite noticeable around the bowl area. It was what they considered a stage 2. They said the next step you spend more $$ for little gains. Seems to have worked well as its always made decent power vs boost on the same dyno compared to other rb25det's and rb30det's. Economy has improved clocked up a heap of km's on the weekend and pulled 480km's out of 52litres.

Bugger.. Mine holds steady boost until I try and push more than 17psi I also have a 4" cai in to the bottom of the airbox but thinking maybe the paper filter is causing issues combined with the 2" fmic piping etc.. First up it will be run with just the fmic done then if there's still issues I'll lift the lid on the airbox if no joy then on goes the actuator which will be going on regardless as I don't really want to run any less than 18psi.

My core isn't actually too bad. 450x300x90 I've been told to stick with it (its an old spearco bar/plate core) and simply weld 2.5" outlets on to it. But it is a tad short.... Piping I'll have custom stuff done to retain that std factory look. I really think the taper is most influenced by the 1bar actuator as I experienced the same thing when making less power on the std cams. No doubt the cooler piping and std airbox/filter is hurting it a tad. The offer is much appreciated but its all sorted.

4wd yeah its a pain in the arse as there is the plenum issue if you run an rb25det. Typically for a 4wd you can budget an additional 1k over a std rb26dett rebuild. If its the rb25det then you need low mount plenum. RWD - the additional cost is very minimal and well worth the huge amount of mid range compared to the 25. No reason it should cost more than an additional 300-400 max. Back when I did mine it worked out cheaper to do a std rb30 freshen up with an rb25 head than it was to grab a rb25det and drop that in.

You can run with the two lower tensioner locations. Just means a different cam belt. Block off the oil galley for the vct in the rb25 head (not the block) and then drill/tap a feed for the vct or if you are running larger cams and don't wish to utilise the vct you drill the head to provide oil to the front cam bearing. Unsure exactly stockymcstock with his twincharged gt4088r rb30det worked out how to do it. If you run with the r32 rb25 head then its just bolts on and off you go. Its easy to lower the engine mounts ~13mm and should cost under $100. Boostworxs know what has to be done in this instance. Once you go the 30 there's no going back.

Increased lift allows more power to be made at a given rev range. Duration moves peak power higher up the rev range. Really depends how hard you want to rev the 30. SK's recommendations are on the money. I went for a 265 duration as Boostworx has had good results with them on the 30's with stock manifolds previously. If you are running a nice inlet and exhaust smaller 256-260 cams will get you to 7.5-8k easily. Then tweak the inlet lca to move peak power around to where you want it.

I believe there is an 806C grind. Not sure on its specifics but thats where it ends. More than a 265 duration and 9mm lift and you need valve springs, you'll need to machine the buckets. Rip the head off spend $300 on a set of valve springs, machine the buckets and drop in a set of 10.5mm lift cams. ---- I probably wouldn't bother regrinding a set of pon cams as you can still fetch good $$ for them s/h and then put a few hundred towards a new set imported from nengun or the likes. A set of cams from Nengun are worth 800 odd delivered depending on brand.

Almost worth ramming the idiot and making a job of it as your up for an excess anyway.

The r33 rb25det lca's are different due to vct.

Definitely don't go with the .6 on the rb30. I personally wouldn't go any smaller than the GT3076 .82 on the rb30det which is what I went. Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up. I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256. It has heaps of mid range a perfect street setup. I can click third gear from 60km/h and torque away from rb25 and 26's making similar power that are sitting in second from 60km/h's without any problems. And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down. The GT3582r with a .6 rear will push 340-350rwkw spool slightly later than the GT3076r .82 and have slightly decreased throttle response. Which is most noticeable in the lower loading quicker reving gears. Up from there is the Gt3582r .82 for another 40-50rwkw cams then GT4088r etc etc IMO

The 33's are damn close to the price of a 32 these days.. 33ftw.. better motor better gearbox to start off with. Much better modding platform that won't hurt your wallet as much.