Cubes

Regardless what you have done to the stock rods I still wouldn't push them much past 7000rpm. Forged pistons reduce weight hanging off the end of the road so a motor with forged pistons will be able to handle a few more rev's than one that runs the std cast. The rb30 with a full length crank collar, good balancer, forged rods and pistons take them to 8.5k.

Any one got RBT032?

Its showing 57degree's because its loaded. Disconnect the inlet air temp sensor from the current water temp sensor and your water temp sensor reading will return to normal.

Its known as a viscous clutch fan. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system9.htm

Maybe we should start hanging out at shopping centres and graff shit. Hell its even more difficult to own a boat these days.. They really pump rego up combined with fuel prices.. The only thing left to do soon enough will be brew your own beer and sit at home wearing the wifebasher. Not quite that bad but how does the government plan to keep its citizens happy... (thinks back to the old simcity days lol) Drift events and defects... Why setup defect stations... because it makes money.. Hell they would never think of policing the road to and from and catch people endangering the lives of others as the amount of people they catch and the amount of $$ they make would be minimal compared to a large defect blitz.

7years ago when I bought the R32 I definitely didn't buy it for the looks; I actually thought it looked kind of funny. Driving the car it felt awesome; it felt well balanced and I knew it had modding potential. The VS 5ltr 5speed in comparison regardless of its whiteline suspension and swaybars felt crap and understeery compared to the tight little R32. So for myself... Handling/Braking... general dynamics... modding potential. Looks.. doesn't bother me. Sound does. Could never really bring myself to owning and modding a 4banger. Turbo 6, V8 or good ol Rotor.

The board is an EP35-DS3 so DDR2. The ram is fine its DDR800 and not overclocked being at 800. The chip simply has hit its fsb wall at 400; it doesn't like 400mhz; 380fsb is fine. I haven't bothered to find where exactly the fsb wall is. In the past I've always gone corsair, OCZ etc.. Had a few bad DOA corsair sticks (back in the ddr2700 and 3200 days) touch wood no issues with OCZ. These days there's no need to go for the top line stuff unless your really after the last poofteenth; 1066 gear can be picked up cheap these days. Run 1:1 - thats a 533fsb of which will easily net 4ghz and beyond; providing your chip doesn't hit its fsb wall before prior. Intels are fairly forgiving to higher latency (unlike AMD) due to their mem controller design. Save a shit load and buy decent A-data or kingston; you really can't go wrong. Stress it with memtest looping test 5 and then 8; if its bad it will show so return it for another 2.

Well for what its worth my specs.. All using the latest drivers from the respective websites. Gigabyte EP35-DS3 Gigabyte 8600GT @ 1680x1050 All rock solid memtest (test 5 and 8 for 24hrs) and prime stable. Runs Grid fine no hang ups or stutters. I had a slight issue when I was running a 400fsb where it was rock solid in prime and memtest yet BF2 would still randomly drop to the desktop. Dropped it back to 333 with the same overclok and its now fine.

Don't count your chickens before they are hatched. It is a PFC issue. Before I pulled mine off the road for a little work mine hadn't done it for 2 weeks. Then just as I was driving up near home to park the car for a couple of months it gave me a little miss. lol. It comes and goes; you think its gone then its back again. I've ran an RB20det pfc prior and not a zip... Drop rb26 pfc in and experience the dreaded miss; rb20det pfc back in and nothing.. Its the 8.04a PFC and well known amongst tuners who have a lot to do with the pfc.

No issues with Vista here. Granted I did step up to Vista x64 and have to throw another 2gb of ram at it as it did feel slower than XP. Now stepping back to XP feels slow; the general responsiveness of the system is less; programs load slower etc etc. I don't have any issues with games; no drop to desktops and thats games ranging from the young lads old motoracer right up to BF2, BF2142, Crysis, COD4 good old UT etc.. I can't remember the last time the computer crashed.. It does appear MUCH more stable the old XP. I also use the comp for a bit of VMware; programming; web development; video editing etc.. Everything just fly's. Since I threw a total of 4gb at it. My BIGGEST gripe with vista is MS Stupidly making it difficult to change settings.. Give me back the good old control panel. Change of Look and feel FTL.

Thats correct. The rods hold an almost infinite amount of power. The issue is by the time you spend $$ on prepping and resizing the rods + a set of good rod bolts you are damn close to the $$ figure of a set of forged rods that come with ARP bolts. So why would one bother with the stock items especially in an N/A application. N/A will NEED the higher rev's if you want to make decent numbers so it will make use of a set of forged rods more so than the a turbo motor. Unless the turbo's pushing HUGE 500rwkw+ numbers. Stock rods HATE rev's. Darrens 471rwkw std rb30et @ Boostworx was rev limited to 7000rpm. Push the motor much past 7000rpm and you will run in to problems if you don't run with forged rods. Don't look at it from a power perspective.. Look at it from a rev's perspective.

I don't believe he would have been able to defect the car as I had the same issue when I first bought my R32 gtst. The problem is your apparently not allowed to drive with the fog lights on at the same time you have the head lights or some crap. Almost copped a fine. In a crude analogy its much like having 300kw+ yet if you use it your hooning.

Leave the rods stock. If your going to spend any more on them its a waste of $$ as by the time you prep them, resize them and buy decent bolts you may as well have bought a set of spoolimport rods for $750 that come with ARP rod bolts. Even considering the price of $750 by the time you buy decent rod bolts and resize the std rods your not all that far away from $750. http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp As for adj cam gears. Spoolimports you really can't go wrong.

Why no threadlocker? Doing mine up to basically as tight as I can. 200nm or so with thread locker its fairly easy to remove with a normal breaker bar. Onyl reason I've used threadlocker is every crank bolt I've pulled has had some on it. Be it from factory I'm unsure; Multiple RB30e, 2 x rb20det's. Given the age I'd say they have all been apart prior.

Permanent Threadlocker + big breaker bar and hang off it is how I've always done it. I drop mine in fourth gear with the hand brake on; never had issues with it moving. I've always figured 4th would be the strongest gear 1:1; Don't like the idea of forcing 5th even though I'm probably only able to get 200-250nm in to it and no doubt the motor makes more at peak torque.

Depending on cost you may wish to look at replacing the viscous hub. They are available from the local auto store. From memory its the VL Turbo or R31 hub you want. Not the VL N/A as the fan is slightly smaller. Also.. A VL N/A or VLT clutch fan fits fine. The VL N/A is just slightly smaller with less blades and is noisier.

Of which raises the question.... Are the VH/VG IAT's quicker acting or are they the same slow arsed rb26 ones?

Yours has a reading because your using an RB26 PFC and have had the wires linked so you don't have the nasty check engine light showing constantly.

Nah its not variable.. Its the same as the r33 but 'apparently' smoother in its transition; of which comes down to the solenoid mechanism its self. You can use a simple $34 window rpm switch imported from the US from a mob that I know of. Its basically a NOS switch; switch on at x rpm then switch off at y rpm.

But it is officer.

Can't mod the rb26 pfc to suit the Neo as they are a different plug. Could possibly do it I suppose if you grab a 25 or 26 plug and then painstakingly swap each individual pin.

R32 RB30DET - R32 RB25DE Head light port/polish valve deshroud GT3076r .82 IW - 268rwkw @ 1bar and 285rwkw on 17psi with the standard cams (240 7.8mm inlet 232 7.3mm exhaust) 2 catch cans either side of the motor; the PCV is blocked. Pipe connected for looks with a T piece that runs under the manifold where the catch can resides. 4" Turbo to AFM pipe. Bov is blocked off. 100mm CAI in to the bottom of the airbox.

Pulling the springs out of these is quite easy. 1 lower bolt 2 top nuts; remove coil over. Attach spring compressor. Remove the top shock nut and slide the spring out. Then do the reverse to install.

Grab a set of cheap spring compressors and give it a crack yourself. Then put the 2-3hundred you save towards some other go fast bits.

Thats plain and simple f*cked. Not something you need to be worrying about when you hit the sack at night.