Cubes

Torque FTW!!!! Sounds awesome as it grabs that next gear sits up and powers off.

If all issues are sorted just bang the guts out until you have the $$ to grab another cat. all though not really recommended legally.

hrmmm I have a lot going on in the month prior (going away for a holiday); when is payment required and what is the deposit? Hopefully a nice bonus comes my way this year or I'll be out there with less than good brakes. :S

How old is the CAT? They typically should last a reasonable time. My last was a touch under 150,000km's before it began to break up. IF its blowing out quickly consider having the tune checked; of which may also be related to your recent spark plug tip melting experience. :S If something is off dropping another cat on to it is a waste of money as it will just break again.

When the rb30 thread was first born not a great deal was known so no doubt there will be a fair bit of incorrect or lack of knowledge. I will have to get off my arse one day and update the rb30det guide with details on vct and 4wd. one day.

I haven't heard of people having issues with the R33 NA springs but when it comes to the R32 Rb25De there's definitely issues. The R32 Rb25DE's run the same springs as the rb20det. The spring in the rb20det controls a lighter smaller spring. Another issue I believe causes problems with the R32 Rb25de's is the lifter design. The r32 rb25de lifter has holes to allow oil to enter where as the rb20det lifters are quite restrictive in allowing oil in to the lifter. Holes = increased pressure trying to pump the lifter up. All though not 100% im fairly certian this is the case. The rb20det lifter runs the same as in the vg30det. I would like to see the lifters in an r33 rb25det and rb25de. They are easy to pull apart clean and inspect.

I don't have one but you may be able to track something down through motor traders. I spliced my z32 afm plug in when to the loom; might be worth doing the same with the stock afm plug when you grab one.

With fuel. Depending on dyno I guess but I haven't known any one to crack 350rwkw with std cams in pump.

I used the stock nissan banjo but didn't have the tools required to measure it. It looked 1mm or so? If you still have yours measure the sucker. Also... GCG when they sell you a new BB GT turbo recommend using a 0.9-1mm restrictor. Dangerman4 is another who has used a restrictor supplied by GCG with his GT35r .82. He's had his setup for longer than mine and no doubt done more kms as its his missus I mean his car.

D_Stirls, Nice find.. When I removed my bushes I did the same except used a drill bit popped the middle then used a hack saw to cut the outer shell. Once the shell was cut it popped out without drama. I then used a piece of exhaust pipe and smacked the new Noltec bush in.

No.. Typically you can run up to 260duration 9mm lift cams before you have to ditch the VCT.

R33 RB25DE's definitely do. VCT is good for mid 300rwkw at the wheels. Much more and you really need larger cams with big lift of which renders the VCT useless.

With coppers. Best/cheapest place to grab them is Motor Traders at around $2.85 per plug. Else where pay the usual $4.40 per plug. Which really isn't that much anyway. RB20/25/26 BCPR6E for stock power to around 250-300rwkw. 0.8mm pregapped. BKR7E-11 for powers 250rwkw+. 1.1mm pregapped need to gap down to 0.6-0.8mm depending on boost. The two above plugs are the v-groove type. I find they last a good 20,000km's. By 30,000km's they are beginning to look quite rounded. I run the BKR7E's have absolutely no issues with fouling. At 268rwkw the BCPR6E's were coming out a looking a little hot, the BKR7E's heat range is spot on and look nicely tanned. If you have issues with fouling the car is running way too rich and really should be sorted.

I shoved a hair dryer on the end and heated the sucker up.

Yeah just give it a good wash with water afterwards.

Be very careful with degreaser and aluminium as it has a tendency to react and damage the aluminium.

Be carefull when swishing the fuel around in the cooler.. First time I did it I sprayed myself as when you swish it evaporates and creates pressure then sprays out from your hands holding the ends. :S

Don't touch high density ram its shiet... huge incompatibility issues. :S Its cheap for a reason.

The blocks are different due to the R33's VCT. Providing you use the RB25 from the R33 and not the RB25 from the R32. The R32 RB25DE does not have VCT. Unsure if there's any differences with regards to piston oil squirters or crank/rod design.

How long has the clutch been in? They are all very very very grabby initially and then they smooth out so to speak.

Idle better? Do you mean engine quieter? I've tried so many damn oils over the years and honestly.. never noticed any difference apart from a really really slight difference in valve train noise. When it comes to performance etc its all the same.

All though unlikely throw a timing light on it when you've got some decent rev's and boost on board and see what the crank marks are doing. A mates rb had an issue where it was fine at lowish rpm; once in the higher rpm's the cas timing went to shiet. Cas looked fine; replaced it and power jumped 50rwkw.

I have pulled a set of lifters from an R32 RB25DE and R32 RB20DET motor. Both lifters are differently designed. The R32 RB25DE is prone to valve float and pump up as soon as it gets a little boost in to it (assumed due to the same valve spring controlling a larger heavier valve + boost holding the valves open) 2 out of 24 in the R32 RB25DE head have movement and causing a little valve train noise so I'm pulling them apart and cleaning them out. I'm considering the rb20det lifters as the design seems to look a little better. Not sure why though lol For those who are engineering minded which do you believe is the better designed? They are both interchangeable as they measure up the same. Pics attached.

R33 RB25DE head is a NO. R32 RB25DE head is a YES. The R32 rb25de head is very similar to the rb20det head but I have discovered another difference. The Lifters. I'm about to make a post in the FI section. The GT35 and GT30 cores are the same. I run a restrictor upstream of the core. Do note Nissan from factory run 2 restrictors; one at the block and one at the turbo. I simply followed suit as do GCG. No issues and I've covered around 10,000-15,000km's with the new turbo. I used the standard nissan banjo that bolts to the block; had the bundy tune sweated off new bundy tube soldered; and then an appropriate 7/16 inverted flare fitting at the end that bolts to the turbo. Cost $38

Increase track and introduce some decent camber. Not really usefull for the street.