Cubes

U-Steal it are open on Sunday.

Its no different to how it was when I was on my P's back in 95 and living down south. I had a little TE Cortina 4speed; exhaust, cam and holley and low. That thing was always picked on by the police due to its nice idle and ride height. Awesome little car that; burnout machine and had no issues whooping the back then quick VN 5ltrs.

Your fairly certain he's on sau or just taking a stab?

The VCT head has a total of 3 feeds. How you restrict it depends on the oil pump your going to run.

My thoughts are its most likely as you say cam specs but I can't see the ceramic going back in to the inlet UNTIL you jump off the throttle. Could also be something to do with the smaller turbo; turbo being closer to the ports with a direct path unlike the log manifolds.

They do For what ever reason the RB26's suck the ceramic back in to the motor where as the single turbo's never do. Most likely a little to do with manifold design and possibly cams. At 2k? Thats better than mine; got dyno sheet? Mine makes an 1psi off idle; by 2000rpm its around 4psi, 2500rpm 8psi and 3000rpm 19+psi.

SLED, Its only the 26's that have the issues with sucking ceramic back in to the motor. Providing EGT's are kept in check with a good tune and no track days 14psi is all good on the stocker rb20 turbo. --- There will be bugger all increase in peak power going from 12-14psi; its the mid range that will sit up and feel alive; transform the whole car in comparison.

Unfortunately not; the car is laid up in the drive way. Fitting a set of cams tomorrow; replacing the steering rack after work during the week; then in for a tune so I will miss the cruise. I had a larger turbo on the rb20det for a while; the following week I dropped the stocker back on and crammed 1bar back in to it as the larger turbo was gutless through first and was slower for general street duties than the highflow. Which is when I decided the rb20det was not for me.

Really do consider pushing in some cradle rake; when it wheel spins it noticeably still accelerates. Prior it felt like it sat on the spot and wheel spun. The Toyo Proxes 4 do have quite a soft side wall and the rubber is quite soft to touch. They have a 200 tread wear. I'll be grabbing a set of RA1's on a second set of rims. Still in the size of 225/50/16's; I'm 'fairly' confident they will hold 300rwkw given these cheapo Proxes 4 are doing extremely well with 268rwkw as it is but obviously its not coming on as strong as yours.

Looks good.. ~7 years ago mine made 164rwkw on 15psi with 12:1 afr's. Went damn well 0-100 in low 5secs and 0-180ish in high 13's to flat 14's.

CEF11E, What turbo your running? I quite like mine at the moment as it is fairly friendly when it comes to throttle control. The highflows are just nasty on the rb30's they punch way too hard through the mid range.

I'm really not worried about it. With the factory setup... Your in an accident and for what ever reason the factory relay fails the system will still run until you kill the ignition. If the factory relay were to take a hit and some how weld on chances are it would short the wires attached so its unlikely the fuel pump would run. If the relay were to weld on under normal conditions; you turn the car off WTF the fuel pump is still running. Some things not right with that I'd better fix it. I believe its unlikely to become a problem. Sure it doesn't meet ADR's but hell it doesn't anyway nor does that bigger turbo or rb30 sitting under the hood. :S

hahah either am I. But it did get a few bites.

Ahh Mr Lith but 2500rpm is far from measuring response. You don't combine the 2 turbo's mass in order to determine their over all acceleration. Sure there is slight loss due to additional friction (turbine housing etc) but the neg's do not out weigh the positives. Response is the time taken to spool once at an rpm that is able to provide full boost. Consider a GT35r at 4000rpm and a pair of twin gt2530's at 4000rpm on the same RB26 with very similar mods making similar power. Second gear. Mash the throttle; the twins will reach their peak boost quicker and get moving sooner than the gt35 with its higher inertia. No take the two cars to the track where your almost always at an rpm where you can bring the turbo to full song; the twins excel and offer improved acceleration that is more tractable out of corners. The big singles tend to lag then bang come on hard due to the whole inertia thing. Thats my understanding and experience with a few different settings anyway. It sucks that a RB26 with a pair of 2510's has the same 'response' as my gt30 .82 on my rb30. YET mine spools a hell of a lot earlier and has a shit load more under the curve; his doesn't really get moving until ~4k.

Of which comes down to the old... The greater the mass of the comp and turbine wheels the less responsive it is going to be when accelerating from x rpm to y rpm.

Don't compare where peak boost is made it really is misleading as to how the car drives on the street in lower loading gears or rolling in second gear out of a corner and then nailing the throttle. Twin 2530's > GT35 IMO. Better boost response.. e.g rolling in second gear at 60km/h. Pin the throttle and watch the twins sit up and disappear in to the distance where as the GT35 feels like boost is trying to catch the rev's. Nissan went with twins on their track warrior for a very good reason.

Im happy with my little cheap fun car. Owned it for 7years and still have no intention to sell up.

Next time you see him genuinely ask.. How is your son i hope he didn't get what I had...

Nice... 250rwkw odd is definitely a lot of fun. I'm in the process of dropping a set of cams 265/265 9mm in to mine at the moment then off to boostworx for another tune with a tad more boost. I'll keep cranking boost in to it until it stops making power. Fingers crossed I can crack 300rwkw on the std exhaust manifold. Last time I was on the dyno it made ~260-268rwkw on 1bar with std cams; hopefully I see 25-30rwkw increase with the cams on the same boost.

Jet lag... Its definitely not 7psi unless some one has swapped out his r32 actuator for an r33 item. OR his cat converter is clagged.

The IW is perfectly fine. XR6T's manage 400rwkw+ when swapping the comp wheel out for a T66 with the 1.06 IW so there's no reason why you should have issues. You may need to shove a larger flapper in there and run an actuator that closely matches the intended boost your going to run. Much like an external gate; a mate recently was trying to push more than 17psi out of a 45mm ext gate running a 8-9psi spring. Simply would not go more than 17psi.

Easy fixed... run another relay that is activated by the ignition switch. As per factory.

You don't have to ... You simply pay for a temp day license and off u go.

Sean/Boostworx runs in the improved production with a little 808 I believe it is. In his old rx7 I believe his best time around mallala was a low 1min 17?

I ran with a single 1.5mm up front and blocked rear as suggested in the thread. The setup seems ok and has travelled quite a few kms but from day one I was getting a little valve train noise for a fraction of a second following start up of which was not there prior. If I were to do it again I'd probably go with leaving the std RB30 1.8mm restrictor up front. All though I possibly believe the valve train noise was as a result of the head bloke not knowing what he was doing with the lifters as a result they trapped a little air inside. So as they so do it right do it yourself. I've pulled the lifters apart; meticulously cleaned, primed and reassembled.