Cubes

If we hold out on buying fuel today we will buy 2x tomorrow. Unless you sacrifice the heater in the morning and catch the bus.

If your going with a remap don't run the rx7 injectors. The GTR's are a good choice providing you have some nouce to wire in the resistor pack your self and pick the injectors up for 200-300 max. + Cleaning for $100 that leaves you with a set of injectors that can push near 300rwkw for bugger all. The resistor packs can be picked up for 5-10 bucks from the local wrecker (Out of the R30 Skyline or 280zx).

Mate run sard twin sprays from nengun that had no issues in his rb20 rail/inlet manifold.

The R32 head is fine for 300rwkw. R33 if your going to push 400rwkw. The GT3076 .8 rear .6 port shroud comp can be squeezed to 320rwkw with pair of cams. Mine has made 268rwkw on 15psi and 285rwkw on 17psi. Didn't appear to make a great deal after that as we suspect one of the following resulting in a tooth up/down see saw top end: * The 232 duration exhaust cam was causing a little problem letting the exh gas out * Some funky ignition break down began setting in (as there was a fair bit of unburnt fuel around when there shouldn't have been) * Onset of valve float Waiting for a set of 264 advertised 221degree @ 0.050" 9mm lift cams should be here in a week or so. Interestingly the exact same thing occurred in a mates rb30det but using the GT35r .82; on the same dyno his made 270rwkw at 17psi much more and it began see sawing. Only real difference between the motors is mine runs a slightly higher comp and my head has had a bit of work (port polish valve deshroud). The R33 head has slightly larger inlet ports and are more square open looking compared to the R32's twin round tube looking ports. Exhaust the same, valve size the same.

:S Crank end float checked?

Hey buddy, Unfortunately no.. I've done a fair bit of webdesign through out uni but not willing to invest the time as its not my thing; I really do not like it when its not perfect; which results myself spending way to much time on it which is not good. Idiosyncrasies FTL. lol --- Stevemeister, Aristo's are great for a cruise but slow arsed performance due to their weight gearing etc regardless of the mightly 2jz. 250rwkw 2j Aristo's get whooped by 180-190rwkw r32's without issues lol.

Welcome... Mine is off the road at the moment so I was unable to attend the cruise.. I have a little R32 that I've owned since late 2001 with an rb30det dropped in it. With regards to the website.. looks fine but definitely needs some work as my first impression was 'designed in MS Word' and needs a little attention with regards to professionalism.. hence the 'how turbo works on a car' section. Do remember if your going to push your business on sau you will have to become a trader. Good ol' constructive criticism. Please do not take offense.

I guess this could be classified as a FAIL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR4jXQ1PDjA...feature=related Idiot.............

Just lazy.

lol I haven't bought fuel for 5 days BUS FTW

Name and shame these other wreckers that are stating wally has 'gone broke for good' Whats wally's new address/contact details I'll place him back on the list.

I haven't driven mine for 2 months.. Laid up in the drive with with bits off waiting for some other bigger lumpier bits. n/a sucks I really miss the mid and top end rush. You know its been too long when a VN commodore and Mazda 3 starts to feel like its got some punch.

wow 2 years.. time flys past way too quick.

9.5's on the rear will be out of track. You'll have to shove a set of stockies back on it.

18's will be fine on the R34 providing they are within track.

Nasty as.. Mine wasn't that bad but much more and I would have had to replace it. The plastic was browning and dropping in area's; some of the connectors were slightly black. I've got mine off the road doing a few bits at the moment. The battery is out and the loom wide open. Its a silly setup. L & R headlights (high and low) run off 1 15amp fuse each; the wires run from the fuse to the switch then from the switch all the way back to the head lights. So for me its.. Snip the wires that return from the switch use that to trigger a relay and then from relay join back in to the std loom that runs to the headlights. I've got a pair of relays with fuses incorporated so no need for additional wiring etc. + They fit in the 2 empty spots within the fuse box

That definitely sucks.. 24hrs and its stolen. Its always a thought that the place of purchase (car yard) stole the car following what has occurred in the past.

Its a very real possibility.

Interesting.. The bikes aren't all that much quicker than the a mildly tuned skyline with decent tyres.

r33chris. I see your after a new turbo as yours is whining. Bugger.. If possible stretch to a highflow or a GT BB core so you can run some decent boost and not worry about it failing.

ok ppls.. please keep the links clean. No pron etc.

Hungry Vista. Idling. ~1.08gb With BF2 running MP Small Map Wake ~1.6gb and WinXP Pro under Vmware; all though it doesn't have the usual Bitdefender, daemon tools and msn running of which soaks up maybe 100mb. XP uses bugger all. ~300mb.

The RB20 uses a fair whack less air than the rb25. As a result the shaft speed/backpressure/power/airflow etc is all less for the same given boost pressure. 14psi is fine with the rb25 turbo on the rb20. The rb20det turbo on both the rb20 and rb30 (with 25 head) made ever so slightly more power with the 25 head but with ~4-5psi less boost. The bottom end makes no difference to peak power as that is governed by the head. An RB20DET with 14psi should be making similiar power as to an RB25det with ~10psi according to what I've seen with mine.

I went with the OEM approach. Bundy tube. Works out around $40 per line so x3 $120 for oil and both water lines.