Cubes

Some of the fairly modified rb30et's that rev to 8-8.5k I know of have run with the Ross without issues. Others have also run with the ati and again without issues.

As mines done 90,000km's I did the cam belt; replaced it with the dayco for a whopping $34. I considered the gates but was unable to track one down. Would have been nice to compare the two.

Don't tune for it just yet.. But at least you know you will have the head room in the injectors when your ready to. A set of sard twin spray 800cc's pull up fine and return stock economy. Don't buy single squirter's they are crap under 2k. You need around 35% more injector with E85. So for ~300rwkw you will need ~700cc injectors with E85. Depends on the dyno but 550's generally hit 80% at around 300-310rwkw. + the E85 as you can crank some timing in to it and it just won't ping will make another 30rwkw odd. Just sucks 34 injectors are so expensive in that size.

I went with some cheapo 265/263 9mm lift regrinds (221degree @ 0.050"). I've only taken it to 5k but on the same boost I'm now seeing 4.93volts from the z32 vs 4.78volts previously. Hasn't lost anything down low only feels smoother a few hundred rpm off idle which makes it easier to drive around car parks as the throttle isn't as touchy/lungy in first. Tune is next week Some sleepless nights ahead.

Don't be WEAK!!!! Go for a set of 800's so you can tune it for E85 as its now available in SA and soon to be rolled out everywhere.

The rb25/26/20 cams are interchangeable if you don't mind ditching the VCT and throwing an adj. cam gear on there instead. What exactly do you mean by bare? No valves etc? or just no manifolds? Drop Salad a pm see if he is interested as he recently munched his due to lack of oil in the top end as the bottom end let go. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m21548.html

Cams have been in for over a week. Just limping it around now making sure I didn't stuff anything putting them back in haha. Good thing is fuel economy appears the same and low end torque loss is not noticeable which is awesome considering they are 265/263 9mm lift. Tune is next week.

Working...

I changed oil at 5000km's. The Motul was used in exactly the same style and km's of driving. At first I didn't believe it so I repeated the test with the shell and again sludge in the oil filter. Not all that happy to be honest as I would have liked to run the shell as its a fair whack cheaper @~$45. I've ran motul for a few oil changes since so I may try for a third time with the shell just to be sure.

Get a larger turbo on the rb30 and they rev like buggery. Mine went from peak power at 4400rpm and shifting up at 5-5.5k with the stock turbo and a vg30det turbo to making its peak power at 6000rpm and shifting up at around 7000rpm with the GT30 .82. I definitely would not recommend a smaller turbo than the gt30 .82 on the rb30's. Hey... My stock 200,000+km old stock suspension held 268rwkw fine. Was just a bit unnerving when coming off the throttle in third gear thats all. The biggest problem I had was the subframe moving around and rear hicas tierods that were shagged.

Mine was super quite for the first ~300-500km's or so. I then noticed ever so slight slap on starts first thing in the morning. Its stayed exactly the same for 90,000km's following.

I 'almost' have but maybe that's because of the linear easy to drive power delivery of the rb30 and a medium sized gt30 turbo.

Its a waste.. You will then have to worry about throwing too much oil in to the head and how to get it back again. The N1 pumps are difficult enough to control and require restricting of the oil that flows to the head. Stick with the RB25/GTR std pump or if you must go for the N1. RB25det and GTR pumps are the same.

Hylomar? I use that gear on all gaskets.. mainly plenum, inlet etc. Even used it on problem IC hoses that blow off. But nothing wrong with silicon for the water pump gasket/thermostat housing. They are just a bastard to get off next time you go to service it.

I've driven with and without and didn't like the short shifter. Unsure if it was the box but I found I crunched slightly on hard shifts. I then grabbed a nismo gearknob with the std rb20 shifter/box. The height of the shifter was just nice. Then in went the rb25det gearbox which resulted in a taller shifter. Miss my rb20det gearbox; the rb20det gearbox's feel a hell of a lot nicer to shift for some reason. Every 25t box I've felt in comparison feels big and clunky.

The RB20's are great motors just not crash hot for the street. Place them on the track with a decent turbo and they are in there element.

I've ran bendix ultimates. They were damn good street pads dusty as all buggery slightly hard when cold but not really noticeable. I was luckly they only squeeled only 'just' before coming to a stop. A mate at work tracks his Pug 205. He has moved from the green stuff to the red stuff. He was saying the green's are crap at the track on the heavier skylines but damn good on the street but expensive for a street pad. Red's feel like your pressing on a brake pedal with no booster until they warm up but on the track he said they are unbelievable. Another to consider is the Lucas TRW pads. $50-$70 a pair. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=295992 They will be my next pads.

Thats the prices I was quoted for the stock ecu remap. For the PFC is generally a much nicer hourly charge...

It will be fine if you limp it; run it near empty then push a tank of 98 in to it. Don't even think about giving it a little hit. Once tuned mine would ping its arse with 1/4 throttle bringing it up on boost in an attempt to slow overtake.. Be carefull of those ring lands.

Is he remapping the ECU or just giving you a power run and general inspection/ecu reset/afm clean?

Definitely gutsy.. Would be really good to see the same driver in both cars as it looked like the vette was pushed just so much harder but maybe its just the combination of rwd + more power.

I am not a fan of the 3040 on the twin cam heads they are a bastardised turbo. As you say boost hits hard that = lag. I'd prefer a much more linear turbo that comes on earlier so it doesn't feel like it hits so hard due to lag.

s/h = second hand. chopped springs would be unlike to cause damage. Hitting gutters ripple strips etc would. I picked up a complete rack from Wally at Zimports for bugger all can't remember the price but it was under $100. I recently bought a new steer rack with rod ends as the front left did the same; that cost me $100 for the complete rack and tie rods.

I was able to wiggle my wheels from side to side.. The hicas tie rod ball joints where shagged. Replaced them with s/h items and they are now as good as new. They began to shag out as the car hit 250,000km's.

The GT35 really is not a good street turbo on the rb25. First gear sucks second gear sucks and your left playing catch up. I've been for a little drive with a gt35 rb25det and it appeared slower through first and second than a rb25det making 200rwkw with its stock turbo. It just didn't really get up and go until 3rd+ gear. :S