
Cubes
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Everything posted by Cubes
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It is the 1991 Winning GTR. I made one mistake... I couldn't handle it sitting in the box so I removed it and shoved it in a plastic box to look at every day lol.
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There's a model shop in Marion. I bought my Gibson special Bathurst winning R32 GTR there. Well the other half did.
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Awesome result from the 3ltr Guilt-Toy. And its still meeting emission requirements?? Won't be able to push much more than 500wrhp out of the GT35.... GT40 TIME!!!
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What sort of rev's are you talking about? The usual 7000rpm is fine for the rb30det. With regards to the rb30dett running twin rb20 turbo's.. You've missed my point. A 'single' rb20 or rb25 turbo on the rb30det's chokes them up reduces the available rev range. Causes detonation and has them living on the edge. You have to pull a heap of ignition timing out of it and even then it still pings so damn easily as soon as the weather warms up. Mine with its stock turbo made its peak power at 4400rpm and felt like you hit the brakes at 5500rpm. Definitely not fun nor did it accelerate quick. Possibly with a 3.45:1 diff ratio but with the 4.3:1 diff ratio the lack of rev's absolutely killed its acceleration. The power band was compressed not widened. No point having 110rwkw at 2000rpm unless your towing or pulling stumps.
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Mobil 5w50 without sludge or consumption. Castrol 10w60 without sludge or consumption Castrol 5w30 many years ago unsure if there was sludge but it did have a fair bit of a consumption.
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As Tilbrooks have. This thread is now.............
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Just checked.. r32 rb25 vs rb20 its ~5mm either side. and approx 2.5mm top and bottom.
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1 - The motor was built 90,000km's ago using motul and having the head off at around 70,000km's and then cams out just recently both times the head is a superclean shiny alloy look. No discolouration/browning anywhere. The Shell stuff also made the lifters tick as it approached 5000km's mainly when warm. Dropped the Motul in and it never ticks. 2 - The same type of oil filter - K&N 3 - Definitely.. The shell used around 300-400mls over 5000km's where as the Motul doesn't use a drop well not noticeably anyway.
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I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much. Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing. The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition. As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's. Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.
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When I first bought the R32 going on 8years ago the coolant temp sensor was dicky.. First summer engine temp went from 1/4 to half. I was wondering why the car would get really sluggy and on occasions stall and then not start until it would cool. Water would constantly blow out of the overflow. Summer past; replaced the coolant temp sensor to realise it was constantly driving around on H. Maxed out the gauge. :S It went on to clock another 100,000km's.
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Clutch Slips Brand New Clutch
Cubes replied to iwantagtr's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
When you say slip... Slip under full power 170rwkw? 250rwkw 300rwkw? or driving off boost? Did you tighten up the pressure plate? Sounds silly but I have forgot to do it once as it was being a bastard to align up. -
Standard R32 RB25DE springs + high oil pressure = onset of float. They are 'ok' with the low pressure rb20det pump.
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1.22's are damn respectable.. Would be very interested to see how the r888's improve the times.
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What times are you pulling now compared to last?
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http://www.tighecams.com.au/ A good year ago.. $220 for a set of regrinds. These days. Supply and demand. $380. But still $380 for R&D.
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Mine has lasted 90,000km's so far. Expecting something to go bang.. I hope it hangs out until the 3.4ltr stroker kits from spoolup + gt40 Its ran on a diet of Motul 8100. The head is super clean as it has been off a few times troubleshooting valve spring issues and oiling issues. The rb25det gearbox is not an issue in the R32. I used 6mm plate redrilled a couple of holes and its bolted up with the std x-member. The rb30 making 270rwkw went through third gear a hell of a lot quicker than the rb30det with 200rwkw.
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With good fuel the gt3076's have cracked 340rwkw. The Gt3040 with good fuel has cracked 360rwkw but bugger all more. The gt3040 vs gt3076 on pump fuel the gt3076 wins as its more responsive, linear and is slightly less laggy. With E85 around the corner the gt3040 may be a better option. I just don't like the way the gt3040's come on boost compared to the gt3076 and gt3540's. But thats just me... GT40 +E85 +rb30det ftw.
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Drift... As much lift as possible. 10-11mm lift and 265-272duration depending. 380-390rwkw without too much trouble with the .82. Lift is the key. Duration simply drops the peak power roughly where you want it. Expect it to cam over and sound extremely nice with 272's.
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The R32 RB25DE VRS kit is worth around $280 from Nissan. Comes with all gaskets. Or reuse the old with a spray of Hylomar if need be. The plenum to inlet manifold gaskets are around $11; exhaust manifold gaskets are $90 odd but there are some floating around aftermarket that appear 'ok' for cheap. The R32 Rb25de inlet ports from memory are 5mm larger each side (10mm in total) compared to the rb20det inlet ports. From memory that is its been a while.
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Got a pic of it? Throw the camera in macro and grab some hirez pics of its construction.
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Ignore the other boost gauge hook it up to the dyno. A lot of the jap rb25 cams run with a 115 inlet and 115 exhaust when using vct. Vct then drops the inlet to 111 over 5000rpm which reduces overlap and increases top end. Without VCT then tend to start off with 110/115. The exhaust is fairly good around the 115-118 mark depending on setup.
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bah its load of crap. Ethanol actually cleans. Not quite as good as water injection but damn close. Unless you leave it in your tank for 1+month only then does it begin to absorb water. Unless you have an aluminium fuel tank you don't have to worry. Bosch fuel pumps are designed with ethanol in mind. The 'only' issue E85 has is with 'old' fuel line. I've replaced my fuel hose from the tank to front with suitable hose from pirtek cost me a total of $40. These cars are 10+ years old now its worth while replacing fuel hose regardless of fuel especially when base fuel pressure (36-40psi) + boost (20psi) = up to 60psi of pressure running through 10+year old often surface cracked fuel hose = disaster waiting to happen.
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Its definitely not 'just' a percentage. Its a fixed value + a very small percentage. Friction 'slightly' increases over the base friction as load increases. A general rule is the RWD is ~70-75rwkw with the rb25det gearbox. The rb20det gearbox is a tad less. As for the 4wd setup who knows.. Some one needs to get the motor on an engine dyno and then rolling road. As for rwd vs awd.. there's bugger all difference. ~5rwkw.
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Tighe cams appear to do decent ones. rbman went with the 708c 254 8.5mm lift (214 @ 0.050") cams and picked up 26rwkw on the 1psi less. simonr32 went the same as myself and with the std lca's on the rb25det picked up a little over 30rwkw on the same boost. then pushed in some overlap picked up 20rwkw through the mid range and dropped ~10rwkw up top. His jumped from 260rwkw to 290 something rwkw on the same boost with the gt3071 .7 IW a/r.
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Check the boost its running. A mate with a 1bar actuator went from ~1bar down to 12psi when cams were fitted. He made basically the same power but at a lower boost. Whats the stock gauge saying? Over +7 and its running more than 1bar. I've just dropped in a set of 265 9mm lift cams and boost does not crack 15psi (going by the stock gauge it appears to be around 13psi) I have yet to check what boost it is running as its in for a tune next week but z32 afm volts are up from 4.78v to 4.93v and it definitely clears its throat at 5k where I jump off it in fear of det and lean afr's. Simon I presume?? what are the cam centerlines. Mine are fairly sedate so it idles without a lope (110lca inlet 115lca exhaust 112.5lsa) Push in 5degree's advance and it lopes sounds awesome but is an instant defect, picks up mid range, drops top end 'slightly' and kills economy. I've found at the std LCA's its returning the same economy as it did with the std cams. Throw a dyno graph up. Would like to see the curve as another I know of on the same dyno with 282duration cams gt45 etc is doing the a similar thing looks like its making good power then just falls over and goes flat up top.