Cubes

It helps.. .BUT its a waste of $$ as you can pick up a set of forged rods with ARP bolts for a similar price to shotpeened/resized etc rods + arp bolts.

Top work Trent. Greater choice for us lowly 32 and 33 GTST owners.

Never believe some one selling a car. Many will go to the extreme of stating a motor has been rebuilt when it hasn't. Thats a stock dump pipe unfortunately. You've also got a bit of a nasty oil leak down the back left rear of the block. Check out your cam cover gaskets and possibly tighten them up a tad if need be.

As for knock sensors. You will need RB26 knock sensors. I picked up two for $80 from the local wrecker. Nissan want $310 each when new :S RB26 knock sensors are 'special/rare'. The SR20/VG30 etc knock sensor looks the same is cheap as chips but its a different part number. Unsure if it would work. You will need two RB30E/RB26 Injector plugs for ~$8, a 4pin plug ~$5 from the local auto store and a 2 meters total of black/red wire wire ~$2. Use the original plug chop the existing loom just after the origional plug and fit your new plug so you can swap back to the rb20 knock sensors easily if need be. Make your loom attaching the injector plugs bolt the 26 knock sensors up next to where the rb20 knock sensors usually bolt up and Duncans your uncle. Should take a couple of hours to complete. The 26 knock sensors appear to be be a lot more active than the rb20 sensors (i've tried 2 sets when i had the ap pfc) max knock I'm seeing with the current tune is ~30-35.

When I first attempted this I looked and thought way too hard about it. K.I.S.S (Keep it simple stupid) Init the PFC 50% AFM correction. Apply the appropriate Injector trim for the injectors you are running based on the 444 GTR injectors. - The Datalogit allows you to enter a greater correction than the H/C does. Select the appropriate AFM from the list be it RB20/25 or VG30 - If you wish to utilize the Q45 you WILL have to tweak one of the airflow curves Select the appropriate O2 sensor type if you wish to use the O2. <-- Recommended to tune and leave the o2 sensor off If you don't wish to use the IAT. - Zero out the Air temp fuel and ignition correction - Use an appropriate resistor and wire it up to the IAT pin outs to trick the ecu in to thinking you have one OR bridge the IAT pinout to the water temp sensor of which will require a rework of your cold start enrichment table as it loads the temp sensor as a result the ecu see's a lower temp than it really is. If you do wish to use the IAT and its associated fuel and ignition correction grab a Coolant temp sensor from a VL/R31 or your RB20 and use that and wire it in accordingly. <-- Recommended Then simply tweak the map accordingly. Definitely not rocket science.

If you have the datalogit they have the sample maps already there. Transferring the details from the AP engineering map is a bad idea. Doesn't work. I sitll have clean AP engineering maps from from the datalogit when I had mine. Norwest... I wouldn't worry about starting off with a 'clean' map. Get the wideband on to it and it will be exactly how you want it anyway regardless how it started off. The RB26 pfc appears to run smoother than my old ap engineering pfc. + it has air inlet temp fuel/ignition correction. I wouldn't have it any other way. All though likely never experienced witht he rb20det when hitting load point 12 at 1600-2000rpm on the rb20 ap pfc the car would lean out and get stuck on that load point until it pushed past 2000rpm. Never could tune that issue out. I tried multiple AP engineering PFC's (3 in total). Dropped the rb26 pfc in and bam instant increase in low end torque as it wouldn't get stock on load point 10-12 at low rev's.

It definitely needs a datalogit to run correctly following a reset/init. There's other values such as air temp correction etc that play up a tad if they are not zero'd out via the datalogit.

For Rad33 with his new rb25det on the way.. Get an rb30 under it. RB25det vct head FTW for bottom end. AL's motor is running the same GT3076 .82 on an rb30det but with a nice exhaust and inlet manifold with slightly smaller cams. The VCT has picked up some nice low end power peak power appears to be made around 7000rpm. Now for mine.. 15.5psi that can be seen and the last tune at 19.5psi through the mid that tails off to 17psi causing top end to flatten out. The 2" fmic piping is causing issues up top as well as the wastegate flap being blown open. Mine makes its peak around 6000rpm. Will play with the adj. cam gears to shift that to approx 6500rpm.

Its all good... Try not to take a little ribbing from us Aussy's too hard. Its our strange nature. You can edit the comments section of your vid on you tube. I believe with it holding 20psi to peak power with std cams and manifolds some where around 280-300rwkw (400rwhp) So damn close to 500hp at the fly. I've got basically the same turbo GT3076r .82 IW (HKS3037ProS) on my rb30det but it has cams (265/265) and it made 302rwkw on 17psi. Prior to cams it did struggle to nudge past 280rwkw. To push 800hp on pump fuel you will most likely have to drop in a set of solid lifters, new valve springs, machine the buckets and run 10.50-11mm lift cams and not to forget a nice exhaust manifold.

Hrmm next to... Thats where the coolant hose brackets bolt up. Bugger it.. cable ties + a little extra rubber ftw. I'll be using those holes.

Read my post again 'carefully'. I've placed the area of concern in BOLD Quote from his VID LINK -> CHECK ME OUT IN MY SKYLINE DOING A BURNOUT!!! 20psi@ 600 BHP Posting a vid of doing a burnout on SAU in a public street and you wonder why people have game him shiet. Yes I was a 'little' bit of an arse but you get that when a burnout on a public street is posted on SAU.

Providing tuning is good.. More than your 3037s can push. On the 25's the 3037's with cams typically max out around 320rwkw on 20-22psi. I haven't known one to push 300rwkw with std cams on PULP. No doubt there are some out there. You mention its making 600hp in the vid you posted. Not a chance with that turbo and especially with it bolted on to the std exhaust manifold. What afm volts are you seeing and at what rpm? What duty cycle are you seeing with your injectors and what afr's are you running? You've been stirred because you posted a burnout video and then claimed it makes huge horsepower. Up and rolling vids of the speedo are a much better indicator.

The placard I bought from nissan had all japwriting on it. Only legible information was the tyre size.

I know the area you are talking about but my holes are what looks like filled in with some sort of epoxy or hard crap. You can just see where the paint is slightly smooth/shiny looking in the centre of the top lugs.

slow reply but none the less. The option is in the newer PFC's. From memory its in the Function select area. Where you turn on/off the option to use o2 feedback, boost controller etc. It was a bit of a bugger. I paid $190 for a new o2 sensor only to have the tuner turn it off and leave it off. Economy is great regardless so I careless.

If some one else wants to take on the responsibility of cruises etc under the title of a club by all means. There's a lot of liability associated. As I've stated before I'm not interested in organising a 'street' club. Only a motorsport club. If you want a 'street' club your better off with the way it is now.

Bugger.. I have seen a few sets go for 60-100. I picked mine up for 60. Ebay is another place to look. Tighe haven't updated their website for a bit by the looks so chances are it won't be there. Not sure exactly what the problem is.. FMIC is first so I'll know soon enough If not done right building up the cam can be dodgy. Not sure.. If you can't grab a reasonably priced set of gtr cams then by all means grab a set of cams from nengun. $300 for a pair of stock cams is dreaming. What are they useful for lol.

Probably a good call. Piss the rb26 off and drop an rb30 under there. No issues with the std water oil cooler then as the rb30's have the relief inside the block.

Shouldn't that be part of a normal rebuild? I had the bottom end caps slightly machined flat then machined to obtain perfect clearances.

<scratches head> What do you mean washer + bolt?

I went a set of Tein HR's. Sure not the best but they looked bran spanking new and were well priced. Put them in; they don't bounce around and soak up the bumps nicely. You can feel the small bumps but the big ones it soaks up well. Much better than my old stuffed suspension. Best of all the car no longer nose dives when under hard brakes and when on full throttle on a slight bend it no longer unsettles and makes the car feel like its torque steering when coming off the throttle. I run 12mm of cradle rake so the arse end still sits down. With the new shocks the arse end is considerably less oversteery and gets the power down 10 fold better than the old stock soft suspension. I wouldn't be buying old s/h jap shocks but my tein hr's which looked like they had never been used are quite reasonable. They are smoother and don't jar my back over bumps like my old VL commodore did with shocks and king hd lowered springs.

I have a set of Tein HR's on mine. Set @ 360mm all round. Compared to the std shocks: - The suspension feels more neutral with a slight oversteer; prior it was very oversteery. - WOT 300rwkw through the rears in third now holds on perfectly through corners; prior it would snake around. - Coming off the throttle while on power and cornering the car is now super stable it doesn't budge; prior it felt like it steered the car when jumping off the throttle. :S The shocks are firm but not too bad. If you have owned a VL commodore with lowered heavy duty king springs and HD shocks in the past the teins are a softer ride and don't jar your back as much. They tend to soak the bumps up nice when hitting them. Overall a huge improvement over standard suspension. The power gets to the ground better. Most likely because my old std shocks were stuffed and I am now running 12mm of cradle rake so the arse end does squat and force weight over the rears.

I'll be grabbing a couple R1R's to throw on the back after the final tune. $230 a pop for 225/50 16's. Apparently damn close to the RA1's in straight line grip but slightly softer sidewalls.

R32/33/34 GTR run a 4.11. R32 GTS4 run a 4.375:1 R32 GTST run a 4.363:1 So a slight difference between the 32 GTS4 and 32 GTST

yeah they turned out good. We haven't played with the cam gears as it wasn't able to hold more than 17psi up top. The same thing occurred before the cams so I'm putting it down to either the FMIC with its 2" piping and or a weak actuator that is quite lazy. Most likely the later. Mine haven't been built up as they were GTR sticks. The Rb25 sticks apparently do have to be built up. It went on to make. 3k - forget? 3.5k - 200rwkw 4k - 256rwkw 5k - 288rwkw 6k - 302rwkw 7k - 290rwkw Its awesome to drive. Third gear at 60km/h slightly flick the brake and its up making 19psi and then storms off quite a strange feeling with the motor not reving but your being sunk in to the seat hard. I was a little off with my overlap calcs. Its actually running around 39degree's overlap so not all that good for top end 'apparently'. I'll get it on the dyno once I fit an 18psi actuator and new fmic with 2.5" piping and play with the cam gears to shift peak power ~500rpm higher and then stretch its legs slightly to ~7300rpm. Fuel economy has slightly improved; we spent a little more time on the accelerator injection time and tweaked the afr's.