Cubes

How much is it out by? Have you considered cutting up some plate and spacing the chassis mounts down slightly?

Strangely enough SAU primarily comprises of those who either work in IT or the defense force.

I'm going to break this threads rules as you homo's are always breaking it and i'm always deleting posts...... Madaz, Very well 'designed' dump there. Definitely doesn't look shiet to me. No wonder it made respectable power on multiple dyno's.

Awesome work shane. Anything that increases block rigidity is a good thing.

Wing it.. If you haven't got half a brain to work out the problems as you come across then its best you don't do the conversion. Get the two motors in front of you and have a look. Its all quite simple.

Get it on the dyno; watch what the afr's, afm volts and possibly duty cycle does depending if it has been tuned the way it currently is.

Its not like the drifto rb25det's are rev'd harder than 7500rm all day every day anyway.

fit a 20/25/26 cam gear to the inlet cam; another thing to watch out for is if you have the s2 motor it may have the different crank angle sensor. Simply swap for the s1 crank sensor or mod the s2 and it will be all good. How to mod the s2 i have no idea; boostworx have done it without problems.

WHAT? I DIDN'T QUITE GET THAT? DID ANY OF YOU BLOKES HEAR THAT? Sorry bud.. All caps is crap.

If you have a cat or not also makes a difference and how often you give it a boot full.. When mine was inbetween cats if I were not to give it a boot full for some time when I would it would blow the carbon black dusty shiet out everywhere. Quizzed my tuner at the time and he said I must be driving it too soft. After the first full boot there would be no more black haze. I've also seen this on the dyno; I hadn't given the car a full boot for a good 300-400km's on the dyno it went and black crap on the first run. Mines running mid 11's through peak torque and then richens up slightly to near flat 11's by peak power and behind the car its clean no black fuel smoke or what not. At night i can see a bit of a haze if im on it a little but thats to be expected; you can't 'really' see it when outside or driving behind the car.

MissR34, I still don't believe doing the NOS thing is a smart mod as the outlay + bottle refills + the risk of fines + easily being defected + the lack of practicality at mallala (no AIR) simply is not worth the hassle to try something different. I genuinely do hope the overall look of your car doesn't attract the police enough for them to pop the hood and find that nos kit. With police who cruise these forums do be carefull posting pics of your car so it doesn't become known. If you do end up going ahead with it.. Don't be weak go with a 200hp dry kit; John loves his autronic ecu's which will handle it fine with a set of larger injectors. But as with anything if you want it to be reliable and make it worth the risk you will have to spend the $$. Once you get a little power under that foot you will want more. If you are starting to venture in to the power arena consider building the car with a little more power head room just incase; power is addictive and its fun. Most who go there almost always want more. You don't need to get narky with me as I'm only speaking the truth and definitely not digging at you but rather slightly concerned of the police attention that may very well have you throw up your arms and get out of the scene. Best of luck.

Don't take offense it was only my opinion which is based on practicality. Practicality is where I am coming from. NOS is really only practical at the drags. Track days you will use way too much of the stuff. On the street it attracts huge fines. Who really cares about the defects as they can be sorted, huge fines cannot. :S In my eyes there are the sheep that follow the wanting to be unique way and there sheep that follow the tried and proven way. Which one returns the most practical usable fun; often the tried and proven way. Much like those who stick with the rb20 for street use. Its good up to a point but really not much further. I guess you have to ask your self are you doing NOS to be a poser or doing NOS because you really do want more straight line performance. In saying that a nice little 200hp nos kit would be quite nice on an NA on the street; just don't get caught. Which is too easily done with modifications that can be seen easily. With regards to mysetup. I never had the I want to be unique thoughts as I've always viewed them as being slightly poser thoughts my thoughts were I want maximum all round performance. I want to a larger turbo to spool like a stock rb25det turbo and make a solid 100rwkw more. RB30det + gt30r was the answer so I winged it a little and its turned out impressive. At the time yes it was unique as there was only 1 other I knew of in SA. Now there's a growing population of r32's with rb30's lurking in them. If it gets defected.. in goes the rb20det; clear defect then umm it all gets tidied up again.

Better off turbo'ing it.. Voids the insurance exactly the same but at least you may get away with it as the cars are released with turbo if your ever pulled over. + then you can use it all the time. Even still a ~100hp nos is bugger all; you'll still have a stock rb25det with a pfc sit side by side if not whoop yo ass. 150hp you may pull away but very slowly. We don't have a track nos can be used at. One day AIR will reopen for drags.

I had cracks in my coils that could only be seen by a camera in macro mode. In otherwords you would have needed a magnifying glass to view the beginning of the crack. My coils were extremely bad popping and farting with anything over 10psi. I siliconed them up liberally and they have been good up to ~19psi but began experiencing the onset of missfire at the higher rpms. So still good for 1bar and 268rwkw but not much more.

Thermosyphoning. Unless the bubbling is coming from the overflow I wouldn't worry about it and put the noise down to thermosyphoning which is completely normal. Mine begins a slight bubble 30s-60ecs or so after shut down; its 100% bled correctly and has always done it. All though only a single turbo the principle is the same with twins.

Sounds like the TPS is set incorrectly; it should cut fuel on decel. With the rb26 base map in mine I would get popping and farting between gearchanges and slight throttle inputs. The rb26 ign map runs bugger all ignition in the first couple of load rows. Pushing those back up to the norm completely removed the back fires and gurgle/pop with slight throttle input on decel.

It is... There is a restrictor in the banjo and bolt. I did exactly that. Reused the banjo and the bolt and had pirtek solder a new piece of bundy tube to it then bent accordingly to the turbo. Lines up perfectly and is actually quite easy to fit/remove. Best of all the turbo oil feed in total only cost ~$40 for a durable solid metal feed. In total my motor has done a little over 70k but the turbo has only done around 12,000km's.

All though the thermostat is rated to 76.5degree's remember its in the lower rad hose and the engine temp sensor is in the top rad hose reading the spent water.

If its not tuned to suit then definitely. If you have said it has been then sorry I haven't really read the previous posts.

If your running a genuine Nissan thermostat then yes its too low. Regardless of the larger rad the thermostats job is to retain a minimum temp. In near freezing temps where I've had to scrape ice off the windows the car still runs at 80+degree's. I'd suggest your running either an aftermarket cheaper thermostat,a nismo thermostat or the original is shagged.

72degree's is too low. It should be up over 80degree's. If I start the car and instantly drive it; within 2-3minutes the engine temp is sitting on 80degree's.

I remember seeing specs a while back; it supposed to be around 10.5ltres per 100. My old rb20det used to get exactly that.

I really am sorry to do this to you people but it is simply out of our control. The 1st of March is no longer feasible as Sean will be attending a wedding. When the 1st of March was suggested Sean wasn't aware of the wedding. So really sorry people BUT... its going to have to be rescheduled until the 8th of March. Such unbelievable lack of luck in organizing this dyno day. Just goes to show organizing well in advance doesn't mean there won't be hiccups along the way. Once again; if people have had enough or the 8th of March doesn't suit them I'll happily send the deposited $30 back on over. I'm looking at pm'ing all the champs who deposited $30 within the next day. Sorry peeps. A good chance to get those Boostleaks fixed Dangerman4, boost controllers fitted for those others and newly imported cars to get on the road and a bleeder fitted.

March 1st it is then.

Hey ppls, I have family member who's quite sick at the moment so I would appreciate if you mob could suggest when you feel is a good time to hold the day. I will get back to you all during the middle of the up coming week.