Cubes

RB30 + twin cam head + screaming to 7k causes the hairs to stand up on my kneck. And to rub it in a little it makes 150rwkw at 3000rpm. :S In all seriousness; if you want it to be reasonably quick with your setup (diff ratio etc) your going to have to drop an rb30 back in it. Why not do the RB30 N/A turbo thing? They work well and if tuned make good solid reliable power. Then a decent cam, valve springs and a larger huffer and flick it to 7k with the sohc head.

It feels perfect and doesn't ease up until the 7000rpm rev cut. Its all in a shade over 3000rpm and making a good 7-8psi by ~2400rpm. Extremely responsive. Perfect roll-on acceleration turbo. I found the GT35 .82 to lack the roll on response in second gear; it felt as if you would always hang level then click third and hammer away; with the gt30 its instant go. The GT35 doesn't really make its peak boost much later in the rpm but the transient response in comparison is very very noticeable especially in the lower gears. To drive it feels less laggy and with more torque everywhere than an rb25det with its std turbo. And the interesting part is for under 300rwkw with the stock exhaust manifold they both make the same sort of power for the same boost. Which is why I don't recommend the GT35 unless your going a nice exhaust manifold and cams to really make use of the potential. You really need to drive the two setups both on std exhaust manifolds with std bits everywhere to see where I'm coming from.

A bit of bad news fella's. As I mentioned in a previous post hoons in the area have recently dropped burnouts and what not resulting in Boostworx being grilled by the police when clearly it has nothing to do with them. As a result there is currently a high police presence in the area monitoring. We have decided it will be a very wise move to postpone the dyno day until late Feb possibly the first week of March. Reason being is it really is best to let the recent activity settle so every one in the area is a happy chappy again. With the high police presence and current crack down all it takes is for some one to bring along a friend or even one of us to act a little silly and create undue noise and the police will be there. Possibly defecting. Its simply not worth the risk. So..... When you do you all feel is a better date to hold the dyno day. Sean has suggested the 23rd of Feb or 1st of March? With regards to all those that have paid; if you are unable to attend by all means drop me a PM with your bank details and I'll happily refund the $30. For others that are keen but were unable to attend on the 19th but can on the 23rd or 1st depending drop me a pm after we settle a date and I'll send my details over to you. Definitely a bit of a bugger; but It really is worth letting the dust settle and not worth the defects as there is always one silly bugger amongst the crowd. When I get time over the next day or two I'll send all those who deposited $$ a pm requesting if they require a refund or not.

The Int gate is fine providing you run the larger flapper. A GT35R with supporting mods (large cams, little port work, nice exh. manifold) will have you pushing close to 400rwkw. The problem past 450-500hp at the fly is the std exhaust manifold not the wastegate setup.

If your goal is 450flywheel hp stick with the GT30. If the goal is greater than 500hp then go with the GT35. If its 450rwhp then definitely the GT35. I am currently at ~450hp and don't run a bov. No bov really depends on your tuner; some say its fine some say oh no OMFG. I'm sticking with what my tuner suggests as they have never had a no bov related failure on their race car nor any customer cars over the years. Having been around VLT's in the past they don't run bov's never any issues with them.

Ahh good stuff. After the initial start up of the RB30DET I was a little horrified as to a few little bits that landed in the oil filter. I too cut it open. It sounds like you have done everything right; do update the thread as to how you went with garrett. There was a thread over on calaisturbo.com with a few complaining of failed GT35r's with no good reason.

GT30/GT35 same core different wheels. Both have built in restrictors. I run a GT3076 with a similar setup as Dangerman4. I used the factory restrictor from the banjo bolt; utilized the banjo and had new bundy tube soldered to it that then runs to the turbo and the required 7/16" inverted flare. I've had mine in for quite a few months, clocked up quite a few km's with no issues. Look at the condition of the bottom end or possibly any swarf left over in the oil feed line. If the bottom end is on its last legs but not yet knocking or tapping those hydraulic lifters the turbo may very well let go as the bottom end will be bleeding off quite a bit of oil as a result starving the turbo. Chances are there was a bit of crap floating around in the motor as it may have not been cleaned thoroughly. A little gunk dislodged and reduced flow to the turbo. Did you do the suggested oil drop and filter change after the initial start up and then another oil drop and filter change after 100km's?

Hey my better half thinks.. <said knowing that she will check the email while Im here at work>

Depends how many cars run up; generally until COB.

No problems with coming down for just a look. SLY-dn; you can definitely enter on the day; payment up front simply secures a spot and gives you priority of when you wish to run.

For those that haven't seen the update to the first post. DETAILS: BOOSTWORX - 57 Boothby Street, Panorama TIME: Saturday January 19th - 10:00am :- So get there 10mins early The cost of the dyno day is $30 for 2 dyno runs and a print out. A BBQ and refreshments will be provided charged very reasonably per snag and drink Please do note there has recently been a little hoon activity within the area (which is believed to be related to the TAFE); Boostworx has been targeted as the possible offender; so please no burnouts or hooning through the sidestreets.

26psi.. 500rwhp so around 373rwkw + given its a 4wd dyno so saps just a tinny little bit more power out of the final figure. Its close enough bah.. Only a dyno figure. I'm sure it feels fast and will break 3rd gear if your not carefull. lol What spec cams are you running?

Den001, The Rb30's require a larger turbo to obtain the lag and then hard ramp on to boost you are referring too. That same turbo on the rb25 or 26.. lag lag lag bang kick in the arse. Its the nature of increased displacement. Boost is developed over a wider rpm range. To clarify.. is that 652rwhp or fly hp?

My RB30DET is making a shade under 270rwkw and still gets 450km's to a tank (50L) with the odd squirt; no free way driving; all local 60-80km/h shortish (30km one way max) drives. Every time I accelerate off at the lights I'm always ahead of the traffic but not pushing it; only just slightly on to boost with light throttle and changing up at around 2500-3000rpm. I had mine tuned for the o2 sensor on and now with it disabled; absolutely no difference to economy. Maybe its the R33's VCT thing as R33's tend to suffer from bad fuel economy a hell of a lot. Must suck to own an R33/RB25DET. Sorry gotta rub it in.

I agree; some have taken the comments too far. Thread closed and cleaned up for future viewers.

Get a cat or two is the only humane option I've found. We had 2 that used to gang up on other cats; one was taken out by a snake; prior to that we also had 2 where both were taken out by snakes. Not a good area for snakes. :S We have a big arsed black cat that kicks arse. Our US bred Rottweiler (70cm to his back) is often seen running from the cat. Quite interesting how well they get along both chasing birds and what not out of the back yard. Its a bit like a school fight when your watching him kick the arse of next door neighbors cat who dared venture in to our property.

The problem with organics is they don't hold reasonable power all that well with hard launches. Say 220rwkw+ That has been my experience has been If you do give them a hard clean launch that requires a little slip not to instantly fry the tyres; the clutch heats up and upon grabbing second gear it will slip. What ceramic clutch did you use MBS206? I've personally found the Exedy 4puk to be more friendly than the Xtreme 9puk which by all rights 'should' be more friendly.

As I said above.. If you want it to last more than a years worth of driving ~25,000km's get used to not riding it on take off. A nice sharp little pop.

Between the solid button and cushioned I've noticed next to no difference. I origionally had the Xtreme 9puk cushioned ceramic which was grabby; compared to the Exedy 4puk GTR solid ceramic I'm not running I find the Exedy clutch is more progressive and smoother but grabs a hell of a lot harder when you want it too. Personally I prefer the Exedy Solid. Much nicer feeling clutch. In short the clutch can be ridden very easily BUT riding a ceramic clutch will kill it VERY quickly so don't ride them; slight rev increase then simply pop it out which often than not causes a slight chirp of the tyres. Driving the 9puk as above I managed 70,000km's out of it where as I've known some who only get 20-40,000km's driving the clutch as you would an organic. I've had organics last 100,000km's.

Its very much a gamble. I've found the coil casing begins to form cracks; All of mine had cracks but only 3 could be seen by eye; the other 3 had cracks starting which could only be seen when taking a picture of them with the camera in macro mode. Personally I wouldn't bother with the price of JJR coils. There's an old saying that has bit me in the arse many times. 'Poor man pays twice'. Do it once do it right then you never have to worry about it again.

Its still going ahead for the 19th.

Your a fairly new member to SAU so your not aware of what has occurred in the past. In short there was a big thread; I hit up the Admins for a For Sale sub section as WA had their own. I was told NO it isn't going to happen so the only answer was to create a forsale thread. FYI the forsale thread works extremely well; all those that are subscribed to it (which is many more than you realise) receive a notification that a new post has been made. This can be clearly seen when some one makes a new post, your receive an instant notification, click the link and you can see multiple people viewing the thread in a matter of minutes from the time the post was created. That can't be said for a for sale section UNLESS the individual has manually subscribed to the section to receive email notifications.

lol you feel like pulling in second place?

I stated splitfires or OEM. You stated the above; Hence the magical statement. Compare Apples with apples, go with OEM if possible slagging of another brand exists. How long have the supersparks been available for? ~Oct 07 the trademark was reg'd; June ~07 it was filled. Splitfires have been down around $500 well before then. At least a good 1.5years from what I remember; prior to that they were available online from nengun and the likes for in the 500's. FYI; I believe the first aftermarket coil (apart from split fires) were the F.E.T coils. They too were an identical red colour but have been floating around in small numbers for a good few years that I am aware of. Lets keep this thread on topic and the bullsh*t out of it. This thread is about JJR coils not Superspark.

From memory the r32 pulls ~55km/h out of first at 7k; 100km/h out of second and 145km/h out of third. Standard R32 gtst's run around 14.6-14.9 with 110-120rwkw. There was one bloke who some how managed to crack a 14.2 years ago with a 100% stocker and good tyres. Probably cheating some how. With ecu, exhaust and around 160-170rwkw they do high 13's to flat/low 14's depending on driver and suspension setup. The VL exec weighs the same as the R32 GTST so I don't see why it wouldn't pull the same sort of numbers. Try to skip the rb25 turbo and run some sort of highflow that you can push a solid 18pound in to it through the mid range. This pulls up the mid range and gets the car moving quickly which will most definitely help with the tall gearing. The rb25det rb20's I've been in all tend to lack a real meaty solid punching mid range; they wind out and have nice top end though.