Cubes

I'm currently at 268rwkw on 15psi with my stock airbox and umm still running with a stock paper filter. (but with a 100mm cai in to its base). Next time I'm on the dyno and pushing 300rwkw+ I'll lift the lid off and see if there's any difference. I doubt it personally primarily due to the 100mm cai i have carved in to the bottom of the box.

URAS, What is actually weaker about them? Do they run a smaller spline or is the fault with the flange?

Standard cams.. 18-20psi; the exhaust manifold may help make the 300rwkw on 18psi or so. Not sure to be honest. A mate with a GT35r .8, std cams, std exhaust manifold, plenum and 17psi made 270rwkw yet mine on the same dyno roughly same amb conditions made 270rwkw on ~1bar with all stock bits and with a smaller turbo so its really difficult to tell as not all motors are equal. Another GT35r, std plenum, std exhaust manifold and 260degree cams 18-19psi 300-312rwkw. Up around 300rwkw the limit is the std exhaust manifold. It will be good to see what yours pulls with a nice exhaust manifold on it with the rest of the bits being standard.

Yeah the half shafts are a straight swap. The real thickness difference is down at the spline on both the half shaft and axle. Generally if the 5bolt axles break they break on the axles spline where it enters the hub. What manifold are you using? With the std manifold they can be low mounted and fit fine as well as with custom low mount tubular manifolds. Plenum, nice exhaust manifold, now just some reground cams (if your running the r32 rb25de) and you'll definitely be looking at close to 400rwkw.

I had this PFC in my car recently. Works perfectly, all functions working I can guarantee it works 100%. I can also vouch for Bl4ck32, there's no need to worry about handing $$ over to him.

How did they pick aftermarket turbo's? GTR, everythings tight and difficult to see; or didn't you have a set of bolt on garret /hks turbo's?

I can vouch for the Exedy clutches. I run with a GTR 4puk solid from Kudos and its unbelievably drivable. Its nicer than my old 9puk Xtreme clutch. A mate has the GTST 3puk Exedy and that too feels awesome as mine does; apart from my heavier pedal they both have a smooth take up and can be driven normally extremely easy. Almost too easy as its definitely not a wise idea slipping ceramic clutch as they wear at an exponential rate. Drive them correctly and u get good life. I got 70,000km's out of my old 9puk behind the rb30 and 100,000km's out of my original HD organic behind the rb20. The std nissan clutch shagged its self at 70,000km's. Basically its a must to give a little distance and then lunge the car; try not to ride the clutch and once u get the hang of it driving a normal car and riding the clutch feels horrible. Exedy GTR 4puk or the GTST 3puk FTW in my opinion. As I said, more drivable than my old 9puk Xtreme XHD. It feels much like a mates OS Giken twinplate. Nice smooth quick take up. The old 9puk used to shudder a little especially when reversing. Honestly I was a little worried about the 4 and 3 puk within the exedy range but I really wouldn't be.

Depends on what 6bolt you are talking about. If its the Silvia 2x3 6bolt (3 groups of 2 bolts totalling 6) then its no difference to the GTST's, stick with the 5bolts so you don't have to frig around swapping axles etc If its the GTR 1x6 6bolt (similiar look to the 5bolt but 6bolts, so all spread evenly) then its a definite upgrade as the axles are physically bigger. The 3.9:1 should be quite nice with it making some decent power.

God damn.. I've only just turned 28. Its all over for me. And Habby B'day Dan. All the best for the upcoming year. May the Evo not disappoint.

Yeah I did see that. BUT.. That thread has also been cleaned up with references to the bloke who sold the flywheel/clutch combination. Apparently it was a manufactures fault with the flywheel. I'll try to dig up some info to be 100% sure. But from memory it wasn't a standard flywheel.

Would be good to know what a few other people in the field think on the RB flywheels. The above as I said is the opinion of all clutch brake.

Its only what I've been told by all clutch brake. In saying that my flywheel has been machined 3 times now and is very close to the bolts so I'm looking at a flywheel with near factory weight. The 3ltr doesn't really need a lighter flywheel; I'd prefer to keep a bit of weight on the end of the crank.

All clutch and brake. $50. As above; it really depends what your doing with the car. I've always had mine machined and never any problems. The RB flywheels are fairly foolproof; if the flywheel has been machined near dangerously thin the clutch plate will knock the flywheel bolts so you can't use it anyway. The bloke down at all clutch brake said the metal used in the RB flywheels is quite good and doesn't suffer the problems of exploding flywheels like other manufactures do when machined.

I just did a quick google and couldn't find it; as for SAU's search function. Goodluck, it can be quite difficult to find what u want.

In the eyes of the law Yes. Anything faster than 'normal' is considered hooning regardless of body roll. Accelerating off at the lights at anything faster than 'normal' because the 3ltr has plenty of low down torque and no lag is unnecessary acceleration and considered hooning. Have a look at the hoon guidelines that were posted up here on sau a while back and you will see exactly what I mean.

I've been pulled over once since purchase late 2001. Tint on the front windows was the only complaint so off it came.

The R32's.. Mine sits at 365mm front and around 370mm rear. The legal lowered limit is no lower than 360mm. So if I were to lower mine even slightly its defectable. Cops know this, so they see a lowered car and its instantly defectable. Lowering a car makes it handle better?? You shouldn't be pushing the car any where near the limits of the stock suspension otherwise your hooning. 100km/h with stock suspension I had no issues swerving to miss an animal on the road, car held solid and composed, realistically what more do you need. The above is in the view of their eyes. Realistically I do prefer a 'better' more solid feeling car for brisk hills driving, but thats hooning.

Depends where you live, how low your car is, how loud the exhaust is and if they spot you doing something a little silly or not.

Sounds like you've done well then, not just the usual slap bang split effort. DYNO SHEET OR BAN!!!

And the HKS dump. Thanks to the bloke here on SAU that shared these pics with us.

Simon. Awesome result!!!! My guess is the split dump setup isn't helping boost creep. The flap opens and partially blocks the usual 2" pipe. The only way to get around it is to either run a bell mouth OR design the split dump as HKS do and match the waste pipe inlet to the flange. When I get home I'll post a pic of a HKS split dump and you'll see the difference in design. With my GT3076r (gt3037) I was warned by Sean (boostworx) to run with a bell mouth otherwise I would most definitely run in to boost creep issues using the usual 2" wastegate pipe without massaging it out to the flange which is almost impossible with the xr6t rear flange. I went with his suggestion and its all good. No creep.

Yeah if need be I can swing by and drop the h/c off to Shaun as I live only a few mins away. Let me know either way.

No probs. I'll pull you off the list. Would be good to see what a stock AE86 on the rollers though.

No problems Yohan, Drop me a pm and I'll send the details on over to you.

Unfortunately not. As Dale has said its the OP6 housing which has an a/r of 7. according to Bill down at ATS anyway. I've attached a couple pics of the outlet of a GT3037ProS and a GT2835ProS.