Cubes

Disco.. The biggest problem I found is with the core's oil feed/return positioned directly up and down the turbine housing bolt is smack next to the oil inlet. So You try to get a spanner on it but the sides of the spanner foul the bolt. Only way is to grind the side of a ring spanner down to next to nothing. It has to be a ring spanner with fine teeth as an open ended doesn't allow fine enough grabs. Damn Garrett and their small width GT Cores. Its not that hard once you get a tool made up. I'll grab some pics of my doobylacker ring spanner. later.. I had a quick look I can't find it

Its all good; fingers crossed its something easy/silly.

ok as you didn't fit the splitfires your self I'm assuming your guessing that the coil packs have died. In other words you haven't pulled the coil packs out yourself, inspected them did the usual trouble shooting one does before they come to the conclusion that something has died. What brought you to that conclusion? If its started popping it can be maaaaaaaaaany things. The AFR's are too rich. Plugs need regapping. Plugs need replacing. Ignition has crapped its self (if its a s1). So fingers crossed its something silly.

Standard ECU or aftermarket?

I bought a short ring spanner from supercheap; chopped it down a little, cut a slot in to the end so I could get past the bundy tube and then ground down the sides of the spanner so it fit in to the position. Cost me $1.

It would be interesting to know if it were a batch or if slide had some one else do the machine work/balance etc at some point? R33God, you said the motor had a tapy sound or something.. what's oil pressure like? Drop your oil and look for metallic in it. If there's a tap/knock coming from the motor it is possible for the motor to drop oil pressure and as a result starve the journal bearing turbo as they require considerably more oil than the BB cores.

Turbine housing - The HKS is a better design, bigger flap smoother gas exit. Comp cover - The HKS is better designed due to the comp cover insert which apparently reduces inlet turbulence. The comp cover looks essentially identical apart from the slight difference in casting which depicts its a HKS turbo. It would be interesting to see the casting finish both inside the comp cover and turbine housing.

Ahh but you see the cooling system does not become inactive.. It begins a process called thermosyphoning, coolant still circulates removing heat from the turbo's core.

Very nice pictures. The comp covers Insert.. Are you able to take a few more pictures of it or even possibly remove it via the grub screws on the side of the comp cover snout and then take some pics of the inlet??? Awesome pics. Take note how HKS design their dump pipe you split dump pipe users. For those using the Garrett IW housing note why HKS utilize the complete area instead of being a slack arse and simply dropping a 2" pipe in there that partially blocks when the flap opens which results in boost creep on the Garrett IW turbo's.

Do they bolt in? Are they the same size etc? Thats most likely to be the biggest problem.

We rocked up. Put petrol in then got stuck in KFC for 10mins and heard every one drive off 9:30 on the dot. So we ate KFC and came home lol.

In the past I've had Mildren Race Engineering do cleaning/flow testing. Top work; never any problems. The R34 GTR injectors I have did 480cc at 40psi. They charge $20-$25 per injector.

Drop me a pm for the location/meet point.

Axles, Halfshafts, diff centre in to your GTST centre as the housings are different and hubs. All adds up and can be quite expensive if you get taken for a ride by a wrecker but the rear end will be fairly bullet proof. Unless your snapping axles its MUCH cheaper to simply grab a new CLSD diff centre and drop it in to your current setup. For one the diff centre will be new and tight; grab an old GTR CLSD and it may most likely be loose which requires more money spent on it to bring it up to spec.

That power doesn't really fall inline with the 'real' GT3071r. My bets are they supplied the cropped version. OR.. Your dyno is simply very very conservative. Sorry Disco to spam your thread but just to make it clear those figures the above has seen is not the norm from the real gt3071r.

Turk, Most likely a dump pipe design issue.

ahh bugger.. pull the rubber boot off and have a look if the pivot ball is still in one piece. Its probably broke.

Mine broke the spot welds and began ripping the metal so before it popped completely I had it welded up. Cost me ~$30; I can't weld for shiet. There's no need to reinforce it as such just have it welded up and it will be all good.

In the workshop sticky there's All clutch and brake at St Mary's. He has the slaves for around $38 ish. Ring around a few auto stores as they may know what fits or even have a listing now. I remember reading on ct.com VL n/a slave cylinder is the same??? Unsure you'd have to check that one.

Speak to 6boost/Kyle. I'm sure he could organise something.

Just a little down on power. Jokes Dan. I'm sure it won't stay like that for too long. The blokes in the US achieve some pretty impressive results with the GT3071/76's on the Lancers, oh I mean Evo. heheh

Ahh ok so fairly modified then. I thought something was up as the SR's do tend to struggle without cams. Dans running no cams I assumed the SR would also. Those trust turbo's are a damn good thing.

haha yeah.. it was definitely 400KW6T or F6T or something long those lines. All good fun.

First would be to check the slave/master cyl is in fine; if air gets in to the system it will do the same as you have described. Clutch plates can weld to the flywheel (doubt this is possible with a twin/tripple plate) Check there's no air in the system.

Skylinecouple; I wouldn't be concerned if power comes on too hard; a little time spent on the dyno and its easy as pie to tune it to transition softer. All though that spoils have the fun with improving your throttle control skills. The 3ltr with the GT30 has some pretty mean mid range power; after a few tweaks am now finally able to get all of second gears power down. I still find it difficult to get off the line clean in first, usually short shift in to second and let the early boost build soak it up. The 12mm subframe rake has made a massive improvement to traction; even when it is spinning the arse sits down and accelerates the car fairly quick. Prior to the rake it felt as if the wheels where just dangling in the air wheel spinning and road speed was hardly increasing.