Cubes

You'd be looking at the purchase of the PFC + wiring/tuning. PFC is around $780 ish from japan + what shaun charges for the wiring/tuning. Your best bet is to contact Shaun/Troy directly as I believe they know you. A rough price I could give you is most likely way off.

And R32 RB25DE.

The GT3071 IW (IW saves on ext gate costs and manifold costs) depending on where you get it can be had from 1800-2200. Give ATS a buzz and see what he can do the GT3071r (60mm turbine wheel) and the .6 rear with the larger IW flap. Dont let bill talk you in to using one of those ford 5bolt type IW housings as they are not that crash hot. Be sure to ask for the 60mm turbine wheel version and also the larger IW flap that has an additional M on the end of the turbine housings part number. With the .6 rear I really wouldn't bother running any bigger than the 76mm comp wheel because if the air can't get out it most definitely can't get in. So you trade the turbo's transient response (due to increased inertia contained within larger heavier wheels) and a little bit of a spool for .... nothing. There's 2 versions of the GT3076r floating around. The old crappy .7 comp cover 7blade comp wheel and the newer HKS3037S type .6 port shroud comp cover and 6 blade comp wheel. The new GT3076 is good for low 300's with a pair of cams or mid 300's at the wheels with race fuel or WMI. The GT3040 has nothing over the new GT3076 apart from a little more lag and decreased transient response UNLESS you run the .8 rear and race fuel or WMI where it does make more power, mid to high 300rwkw's. Obviously that is running with a set of cams, exhaust manifold good exhaust etc etc. So if you plan on running pump or the .6 rear its really not worth going the gt3040. It used to be once upon a time when the hks3037s core was not available through garrett but now it is........... Sorry Dan, its only my opinion though. lol

You have a 33 so they won't bolt on. GTR injectors generally go from $200-$400.

Only the R32's. The rest are not suitable.

Hey ppls, This is still on the go so if you want a pfc in your r33 or r32 you know who to call.

Its possible but requires you to destroke the crank slightly, use the std rods and then grab a set of custom pistons to sort out the very much reduced pin height. For any sort of increased power I would be looking at a set of forged rods as the the rod side loading will be increased due to the long stroke short rod setup. So not all that crash hot for bore wear in theory BUT it does seem to work ok. So not really a cheap exercise but it has been done in a 26 block by Willall Racing here in SA.

Awesome.. A nice little GT3071r .6 IW-M, spend ~$150 on water and oil lines, $30 on a 10mm spacer plate, $150-$180 on an inlet pipe, $30 on the outlet 90degree elbow and $30 IC pipe extension. $200 for a new bell mouth dump. The -M depicts the larger flapper that is now available from garrett; it costs $100 more over the std small 1" wastegate. Bill at ATS can do reasonable prices on these turbo's, better than what GCG do from what I've experienced. Might also be worth quizzing CRD as they can do some decent prices on turbo's all though they do tend to be on the slow side getting back to you. So don't get too worried if you don't hear from them in a hurry. An easy 250rwkw with a little more to go should you wish to lean on it a little harder at a later date. The GCG highflow will get to 250rwkw but it can be a stretch; with cams you can push 260rwkw but only just. However it is cheaper. ------- I've got a few little things I'd like to do to mine before I take mine out. The usual oil cooler, oil temp, oil pressure and egt guage. BUT I CANT WAIT!!!!!

Thants what I think. Probably just something on the road, tyres may be a little low and out it goes.

I've got plenty of linux distro's I can share.. lol

I reused my cometic. Unsure if its the best way but it appears to have worked well. Cleaned the gasket with gasket stripper and scrubbed with some green scourer thing that I forget the name off (too late). Some of the vitron? coating came off. I Let it dry and realised bits of gunk had got in between the layers so I removed the 2 rivets holding the gasket together and carefully cleaned each layer. Each layer then copped a light coat of Hylomar I put it together carefully, Then gave the 2 faces a coat of Hylomar. All up using 1 full large can of Hylomar. Its been fine since. Unless your on a super tight budget I'd simply grab another headgasket. They can be sourced for $300 ish if your prepared to wait a little. Or there's the Cometic/ACL you can use. 'Some' have issues with them leaking; how I have no idea; I'm assuming the block and head finish wasn't finished to the specs required by cometic.

Do find out what was apparently wrong with the King bearings as they are used by many others with awesome results. My guess still comes down to how it was setup/assembled. Proengines... Have you heard of any issues with the king bearings? I'd assume you would have caught wind if there was.

or... Will regency notice its not a std turbo. The answer is if it has braided lines etc.. Chances are YES they will notice it! Since you almost always fail on the first inspection I'd almost be inclined to leave it on and see if they do notice it. If not bonus; if so well no doubt they have picked other problems with the car (bushes, leaks etc) that need to be sorted before the next much cheaper inspection.

The bbq was behind the black and silver skyline parked. Out of the wind was the idea.

If he has now had issues with 2 different brands of bearings I'd suggest the problem lies with himself. :S I've ran kingbrearings in my own car and a mates; both are still running 3 years later. I've clocked 70,000km's. R33_racer also runs them and being a race car no doubt see's a LOT more stress; if he uses them and a lot of the VL boys use them then its good enough for myself. The bloke who built my motor had recently finished a 700hp RB30ET of which also used king bearings and was starting the build up of a 500awkw RB26. I was recommended to spend that little bit more on them as they are an excellent bearing. They haven't let me down yet. But regardless; almost all the good named bearings are decent. Most often than not the problem boils down to the person doing the work.

Ben!!! Its been a very long time coming. What are the specs on the setup again? Its been so long I've forget.

I was told by the bloke who built the engine to make sure I get genuine nissan valve stem seals, which was based on experience with the VLT heads. :S How do the ACL's hold up? I've managed 70,000km's and the genuine are still going strong.

Angle the front of the cradle down to promote squat weight transfer. i.e pineapples.

lol yeah. and how damn depressing is it looking at when the mortgage will be paid off. :S

I believe its the lift that is the problem + apparently more than 260degree and VCT is not a happy camper. If your not at the flow limit of the turbo be it exhaust or inlet then cams do make more power. Especially as this thread is 300rwkw; push 300rwkw with std cams requires more boost than if you were to run a set of little 256's.

We used weed killer to draw a massive 800m Satan sign on the oval. It turned out much better than we expected; looked perfect from the top story. We thought it was a bit of a laugh being it was a religious school. They were extremely extremely pissed, which scared us in to not telling anyone else about it. lol

The pedal is lighter than my old xtreme XHD but its still heavy. Dropping it in first, second or third it grabs hard. In traffic I do have to allow a little room before taking off as it does take up quite quick. BUT if you are super super carefull you can ride it. The instructions say to run the clutch in; I took it easy for the first 1000km's; its feel changed noticably. It was an absolute pig to drive the first 400km's or so then it smoothed up and is now really nice. Feels identical to a mates OS Giken Twin.

I believe GCG recommend running a restrictor upstream. Dangerman4 runs a restrictor upsteam as supplied by GCG I do know that. I have basically the same setup but I used bundy tube silver soldered on to the factory block banjo that then runs to the turbo's inlet with an inverted flare 7/16" fitting. I haven't had any issues and had the car on the road for some time; clock up around 500-700km's per week. The only thing I do make sure is I use synthetic 5w40 oil and NEVER EVER give it any stick until oil pressure/temp is 100% operating temp. I don't run a turbo timer but do make sure I drive the car easy prior to shut down. Giving it stick prior to the oil being at operating temp is asking for trouble. I've found it generally takes a good 7-10mins to get oil temp up and pressure normal after the water temp guage reads its operating temp. So usually a good 15mins after I start driving the car. Is it possible you had a bit of crap in the block etc that broke loose and blocked something as a result starving the turbo slightly? Quiz GCG yourself what they think about running a restrictor upstream and let us know what they say. But yeah.. mines been fine touch wood. probably just a bit of crap floating around caused the problem? I have heard of that occuring with bran new motors due to poor cleaning. :S

Cheers. Static comp is up near 9:1; currently running 1bar and making 268rwkw. As I said above its had a little head work so compared to others on the same dyno with the same/similiar turbo it seems to be making 10-20rwkw more. Possibly the slightly higher comp is the helper. Hrmm so 256/264. Might definitely have to consider that as the rb25 heads to tend to suffer a little on the exhaust side of things.

There's workshops within 5-10mins of each other everywhere here in Adelaide. $400 is 4hrs on a dyno; plenty of time for a fine tune especially when most tuners run a datalogit have maps already suitable and then simply touch up.