Cubes

Full boost.. 5psi or 24psi? Depending what full boost is the 'full boost' RPM can vary by 500-1000rpm depending how its loaded up. Generally for 18-20psi, .6 earlier than 4k on an rb25.... Not unless you hold it on the brake for 10seconds or its an Auto.

They aren't that high; I feel they can be recouped via the first round of memberships fee's. BUT.. If a sponsor is willing to help get the club off the ground then by all means it is welcome.

100% stock I've seen 175rwkw out of a GTR. The 228rwkw one most likely had its boost restrictor thing majig removed so its running higher than std boost.

Car sold Dan?

CHAAAMP!!

Probably run slower times at Mallala due to the inability to get it hooked up.

Yeah realistically its not too bad. Its definitely not pretty and has some little bugs that I guess you get used to and work around. Can't wait to have a little fiddle with this carpc and this new little Toy.

lol at the sarcasm. Ermmm. That was sarcasm wasn't it?

A long time coming like the FC-Tune by Fasthatch. Looking forward to its completion; there was talk some time ago of Fasthatch including an autotune function. Would be good to have a fiddle with none the less. Would be interesting to rig up a nice little LCD dash, car pc setup.

I've just gave my desktop a huge clean up and changed the background. <looks at Boostd> Quite like this pic.

Sorry bud, I did get the email and then completely forgot about the offer due to other commitments at the time. Best bet is to drop Madaz a pm as he appears to be the man sorting all the sponsorships etc. I'll forward part of the pm on to him for you.

It does take a few $$ to get the club off the ground with cams affiliation, business registration etc so its going to be all reg'd up and running for the start of the new year. Motorsport events have/are coming to an end for the year so obtaining the cams affiliation now really isn't of much use. Make it nice and clean and have renewals etc for the start of every year. The Mallala day was a bit of a feeler which went very poorly; people not making mention they were not going to turn up etc etc but we will see how it goes. The plan is to begin accepting memberships on the Next SAU Dyno day - 19th of Jan.

lol. I'll have a little run about banga by this dyno day so I might run that up as well. Not sure what to buy. Thinking about an old 5speed CA20 Bluebird, reasonable sized, good on fuel and go fairly well for what they are. Not many around at the moment. Not sure what they go for either.

Your workshop has no idea then. The rb30's rev fine with a set of aftermarket rods. The std rods are what cause the rb30 not to rev safely. It may need slightly bigger than 260duration cams to make the most of it though. 265-272.

Hi ppls, I'm about to outlay a few $$ on gauges in an attempt to keep an eye on things out at Mallala. I'm looking at EGT, Oil Pressure and Oil Temp. The others boost, water temp etc etc I don't need as thats what the PFC and Boost Controller is for. The guage I'm looking at is a brand called Nordskog. They are a digital guage of which I like the idea of. Quick and easy to read; they also have a peak hold feature and able to display both F and C. Here -> <CLICK> <- is where I'll be purchasing them from. I've bought bits from them in the past; can't recommend them highly enough, a MASSIVE range of silicon, extremely fast delivery with a no fuss bend over backwards service. Has any one had experience with the Nordskog line of guages and the senders used for them?

550cc's... ~33% more fuel. Wait for the PFC unless you don't mind replacing your plugs. You don't need to start the car to bleed the cooling system. 2ltr coke bottle, chop its bottom off. Bit of suitably sized hose that slides in to the neck of the coke bottle; slightly trim down the hose so that it fits snug in to the neck of the radiator filler. Turn the ignition key to on; remove the bleed bolt on the plenum; start filling the car up until water is squirting out of the bleed hole; keep the water level in the coke bottle above the plenum. Replace the bleed bolt let it sit a little recrack the bleed again; repeat a few times and the 99% of the air will be removed from the system.

Its a real pitty we don't have any real method of comparing the turbo's transient response which is where the GT3071 'should' shine over the GT3076. Spool... I'm not surprised there's really no difference when on the dyno. If transient response is up you will notice the turbo makes boost easier with less throttle, low load gears feel as if the turbo spools once again easier/quicker.

When starting mine its always rev'd up to just under 2000rpm then dropped to 1500rpm where it hangs until warm, as it warms up rev's slowly drop. Thats how a clean correctly working coldstart IAC & AAC is supposed to work. If its not icy cold mine most often than not hangs around 1200-1300rpm.

The amount of bits. :S I'd definitely be looking at a new cooler as you can't be sure you've got everything out; something later may dislodge and stuff a valve/bore etc.

500-600hp on the std bottom end is a walk in the park for the RB30. Good tune and rev limit of 7000rpm and they are fine. If you want more rev's then you grab the spool rods and CP pistons combo for 2k and your set. Machine it up, balance, king bearings a few bottom end tweaks and your looking at around 3k. So 5k for the bottom end is all you realistically need. The head could no doubt do with a valve grind and new valve stem seals. That's not overly expensive. If you are really serious have the buckets machined to allow for greater than 9mm lift cams and drop a set of suitable valve springs in to it. By the time you have some one remove/install, build the bottom end, sort the head, put it all back together, good clutch and tune you will be looking at 10k easily. Then consider a decent diff, 1.3k installed + turbo 1.8k + other required turbo bits $600 + injectors $800 + fuel pump $300 + exhaust manifold if you want over ~490hp at the fly - $1000, Thats up to another $5800. Then you loose your license.

Yes It will be at Boostworx again. Boostworx have the best price for a dyno day. Myself I'm not too keen on spending $50 for a power run that some of the other dyno operators are charging when all you receive is a laminated dyno sheet with possibly a picture. GW does both 2wd and 4wd $40 and $50 respectively but $10 is $10. I feel $30 is quite reasonable. A BBQ and Cold drinks will be available; Boostworx also has evap aircon so there will be plenty of air movement. If the weather is possibly hot/warm it could be a really good time to hold a dyno day depending on how you look at it. Its always good to have the car on the dyno during hot weather as you are able to find out how it runs in such conditions. Is it pinging. Is it safe to give it a bit of a boot during hot weather? So for those of you that don't have the car run up both in cold and hot weather it will be a good chance to see if the car is running well. However... If the majority would like the day to be held a little later by all means it can be done. I personally don't mind the idea of a warm dyno day as its a good check up.

Sorry Bud. I can't remember who you were; it wasn't intentional just every one was wrapped up in their own little drama of getting the BBQ sorted. I thought we were going to be having sauce on bread for a little while there.

Hey ppls, Due to other dyno days being held around the same time SA/SAU usual holds their the Annual SA/SAU Dyno day hasn't been held. Its great for a checkup of how the cars running and mix it up with a few other SAUer's. DETAILS: BOOSTWORX - 57 Boothby Street, Panorama TIME: Saturday 8th of March - 10:00am :- So get there 10mins early POSTPONED The cost of the dyno day is $30 for 2 dyno runs and a print out. A BBQ and refreshments will be provided charged very reasonably per snag and drink Please do note there has recently been a little hoon activity within the area (which is believed to be related to the TAFE); Boostworx has been targeted as the possible offender; so please no burnouts or hooning through the sidestreets. The plan is it will also be the first day of accepting SA/SAU club memberships which will be cams affiliated. No prizes etc as the dyno runs are provided at cost - Makes it fair for the near stockers. There's no limits on what cars can be run on the dyno; bring your old banga for a laugh if you wish. As long as your an SAU thats all that matters. So.... Who wishes have a run on the rollers on the day and possibly buying a snag or two? 01. Darkhorse - PAID 02. Vietorious - PAID 03. Salad - PAID 04. RB_Man - PAID 05. matty_31 - PAID 06. Nightcrawler - PAID 07. Dangerman4 - PAID 08. rd-runr - PAID 09. sambo33 - PAID 10. RB25DETS2 - PAID 11. 93R33 - PAID 12. wegs - PAID 13. J_Red33 - PAID 14. 180or200- PAID 15. Hotwire 16. Deluxe 17. AfterGlo 18 32_4whore 19. Heslo 20. Advent34 21. bezender 22. rad510 23. writeoff 24. dnbutts 25. AFTDRK 26. ryanrb25 27. gzilla 28. barricade 29. gtrkiet 30. natoe aka slw 031 - PENDING 31. SICKR33GTS-T- PENDING 32. Cubes - PAID Now accepting payment to secure your place and choice of when you wish to run. Remember its cooler in the morning. We have the minimum 10 upfront payments to go ahead; if you wish to secure your spot and have a choice in when you wish to run get your payment in. PM me for bank deposit TIME: 8th of March 2008 - 10:00am so get there 10mins early. AND FOR THE RESULTS...

Mod the RB25 until it blows up. Then look at the options again. 1. Yes 2. Lowered. have a look at the engine mounts and u will see. 3. No 4. Yes 5. I run a GTR exedy 4puk. is holding nicely.

I'd leave the door open to make just that little bit more power. Having had ~268rwkw for a little while now I can't wait to get it up around 300. It doesn't feel slow but you do think.. oh what if..