Cubes

Yeah unsure what URAS means by calendar to map response. I shoved a cheap bleeder on mine and it brought up boost super quick nice and responsive. URAS you will find the so called response problems are related to the garrett 1bar cans that have the kink in the arm. Speak to any workshop turbo specialist who's worked with them and they will say the same. rbmans IW GT35 1.06 makes 1bar by 3900rpm behind a manual, std cams. No response issues there. dangermans gt35 + auto is an awesome combination. GT35 + auto FTW. Ext Gate FTL. FTW for those that have NFI.

Stevemeister, Julies coming and so will be the little man. All of us will be eating. Do you need a hand with anything?

kw not hp. The std rods hold 450-500rwkw providing you keep rev's safe. Not much more than 7k. You will be happy wth the gt30 then. HEAPS more mid range and top end and low end hardly differs. The only thing you do notice with the larger turbo is the slight drop in response due to the inertia of the larger wheels etc. But its really nothing.

Yeah mines the GT3076 .82 with internal gate. On mine I've had the rb20det turbo, vg30det turbo and now the GT30 .82. A few mates have had the GT35r .82 and 1.06. Driveability wise behind the manual the GT30 .8 cannot be beaten. Its extremely enjoyable to drive. Pulls strong to its 7k rev cut and spools off idle. 1100-1200rpm in a low gear its in positive pressure. Compared to the stock turbo its lost no drive ability; it still idles off the lights and makes a good 8psi just before 2.5k; goes instantly without it bogging down or waiting for the turbo to spool. Rolling on the throttle in any gear has the turbo instantly on boost and screaming down the road. In comparison to the GT35's behind a manual they do have that big turbo feel and tend to lack the instant response when rolling on the throttle. For a 5speed streeter GT30 FTW IMO. If your after a bolt on type setup where you don't want to play with aftermarket exh manifolds then the GT30 really is the way to go as it just happens to max out when the std exhaust manifold does, that being low 300's. The GT35r really is a waste unless you have intentions of a nice high mount OR its behind an auto. The auto's soak up the larger turbo's really really well. A couple of mates have had the GT35 on their rb30det's with stock exhaust manifolds they don't make any more power on the same boost level just simply lag more. So as I said it really is a waste if you wish to have a stockish looking setup. I've got a set of 265duration 8.9mm lift cams soon to go in; I'm hoping it picks up around 25-30rwkw on the same boost. A mate recently dropped in a set of 254's and picked up 26rwkw so I'll be stoked if mine does also.

Possibly a weakness with the hicas elec setup. Mines only recently started playing up but granted I have had the car for ~6years and travelled ~181,000km's (total odo 248,000) so she's done well. The cars still a million times better than the old VS 5ltr 5speed I bought that was near new back in 1999 with low km's. From day one the interior rattled, had alternator, inlet manifold leaks, gearbox, diff and rear IRS subframe problems. The little ol' R32 has zero rattles, still drives well, still on the same alt, power steer pump etc.

Thats cool.. That must make me Stoner then. Whoooopin all yo asses.

No. The gtr cams are reground to hydraulic specs (ramp rate) with a 265 duration and 8.9mm lift.

Trent, The GT30 .6 with a larger flapper is now an option directly from garrett. ~$100 more than the non M version. The .6 GT30 rears pretty much always creep boost slightly when you run a split style dump; the problem is when the flapper opens it partially blocks the pipes opening (usually ~2"). That combined with the flat area's around the edge cause turbulence and as a result back pressure so on to the world of boost creep we go. So either flare out the 2" pipe so that it meets the edge of the flange or run a bell open style dump. And no more boost creep. -------- With regards to spacers I went with a single 10mm spacer. Rotated the comp cover and slightly massaged the exhaust manifold heat shield. IC pipes line up perfectly and I've also chopped down the std turbo heat shield so that it fits up.

The length really isn't all that critical. Make it about 7-8mm or something. Width is ~6mm. I picked up a length of 6mm black rod for the total cost of $2. I wouldn't bother with doing it on a lathe. 6mm black rod, chop, clamp and drill in a drill press then taper one end and use a pin punch to tap it in.

Some sort of catoon character? He-Man... maybe She-ra? She-ra would be a bit of a laugh. Smurf?

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain. Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked. Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

I've planted a shiet load of water melon seeds. 3months time I'll have so many water melons I won't know what to do with them. Fingers crossed anyway. First time at myself being a green thumb. Might try growing some square water melons too.

How much are the shotpeened rods and ARP rod bolts costing? Should have spent a few $$ more (if anything by the time you finish with them) and got a set of spool forged rods that come with rod bolts for $890 and then comfortable you can flick it to 8k with a set of good cams. Shotpeened rods you still can't rev to 8k safely. You really should have listened to those who have been around the VL's etc for a long time. Shotpeened rods is a waste of time in the RB30's. As spoolup says himself.. http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp

Thats excellent.. I too was told petrol emissions testing is currently in the air as a test standard hasn't been decided upon yet and this was a good 2years ago. I find it very poor that they haven't decided upon such a simple emissions test cycle. I believe they must have something sorted as a few have stated on other forums they have had emissions testing done and its been all good. 'Apparently' Who really knows. ---------- Dan, Congrates buddy. All the best in your future fast endeavours. Never know; u might get bored of the EVO in a couple of years to come and find your way back in to a GTR making some real power. None of this sub 300rwkw crap.

Bump

I have no idea. Best do a search.

In my opinion TWINS FTW!! Over a big single they offer better response. They do cost a tad more but factor in a new exh manifold, inlet modifications etc and there goes that saving from a big single. Stick with twins; better response on that rolling acceleration out of a corner etc. 2 x GT2530's, dumps, cams, cam gears (spool), injectors, pfc, nice exhaust and you really can't go wrong. If your handy with a spanner pull the head off while its apart and drop a 1.5mm restrictor up front and replace the std h/g with a MLS type trust etc. The restrictor prevents too much oil floating in the head during extended high rpm's (i.e mallala). If its apart you may as well; its not all that much more work to remove the cam belt a few head bolts and pull the head off. If not just ensure you keep the sump overfilled.

Boostd's back in town. Its been some time.

heheheh All in good jest as they say. Race__24.. Thats one fandangled looking lock bar/beam. Looks the part.

Well there u go.. Didn't realise the whales had elec rear steer.

The hicas is fairly invisible at low speeds i.e 80km/h. I've found it to be a little worrying at higher speeds but its more so like riding a horse; just go with it and its fine. It shouldn't cause you to hit a gutter etc. If it does I suspect something is up with the hicas. Mine recently has started moving around a little and is a result of a stuffed hicas rack. Jack the car up and you may find the wheels can be wobbled from side to side excessively. Mine mostly plays up on acceleration as it tramlines from the rear essentially steering from the rear; makes for very nervous hard throttle lane changes. Has the subframe/hicas been removed at some point? Maybe there's an airlock in there?

wasteland buddy wasteland.

Talking about french fries.. This kid will regret requesting those supersized big mac meals. My twisted humour had to laughed at this youtube vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDvcXmYQtTM Mostly at the mum/sister or what ever she is pissing her self laughing at the poor kid.

lol yeah 225's are pizza cutters but they do hook up much better than cheap wide tyres. Not just wide but good rubber is a must. Steer well clear of cheap wide rubber its nasty. It still manages to sprint to 100km/h in ~4.8secs but with quite a huge struggle for traction until a little over 100km/h. First is useless I short shift, grab second then its part throttle wheelspin through second trying to get it to hook up a little, grab third then it starts to squirm a little pull off the throttle a little then back on it and its all good. From 60km/h the car is quicker in third than it is in second. I edited the last post because I am a sensible person. But yeah street tyres with the rb25t box is not a problem.

Give Shaun/Troy a buzz and have a quick chat.