Cubes

Give us a little time. Have a few things to sort out/hear back on.

Cheers Dave. I am a doofus. The shifter does sit slightly higher but the problem is with the leather boots plastic top ring that slides over the shifter. My r32 one appears to be too long so it prevents the gearknob from screwing down. I can't compare it to my r32 rb20 shifter as the box is now gone but its almost as if the 25t shifter has its thread closer to the section that flares out so preventing the gear knob from screwing down. I may still get a nismo short shifter at a later date if the longer throw gets on my nerves. I'm starting to think maybe the rb20t box either has a shorter throw or the box I was using had a short shifter already on it. Has any one compared the length of the 20t and 25t shifters? I have lowered the motor slightly which may be causing the back of the box to sit up slightly; I've currently dropped it 8mm; there's no vibrations or funny things going on; I need to make up a better xmember bracket/plate so I'll grab some 6mm plate instead of the 8mm I'm currently using. Apart from that I picked up a bargain. This box with yoke, shifter and slave cyl cost me $950 but I had to remove it from a smashed R33 which was an huge hassle. The box is quiet and isn't notchy when cold. :D The Exedy GTR 4puk solid button clutch is interesting to drive lol. Almost stalled it once but its not too bad; a tad difficult to drive clean if there's a police officer sitting behind. I am very glad I decided not to cut down the tail shaft as the bare minimum was taken off so that the 25t yoke could be welded on. The gearbox and yokes dust shield only just lines up. Its pretty much perfect. If it were shortened any more it would have been too short.

That shim kit is identical to what mine uses. You need to goo. Use it. If your mechanic won't find another.

R12 can 'apparently' still be had BUT its recycled. Chances of finding it are slim to none. A little like R12a. Kiet.. Who said they still have R12?

Whats the details on the VY SS? Is it running one of Martins turbo kits or just the usual mafless tune maybe a mild cam? If its a turbo'd ls1 I'd be keen to check it out. Give us a brief run down.

My oil pressure has been all over the place since I bought the car 6years ago and ~180,000km's. I've learnt to ignore the gauge. I've tried a s/h oil pressure sender and that too displayed the same one day fine next day crap oil pressure. Have it checked on the dyno to be 100% sure. OR fit an aftermarket oil pressure guage.

lmfao.. thats extremely funny. I can relate to it.

Dave was yours a manual from factory or auto as they have slightly different mounting positions. How was the shifter position? Thats my biggest hassle. I don't like it looking like a 4wd + the leather boot doesn't fit.

HKS from nengun. All though its a wait from nengun its bolt on where as the Garrett requires a bit of messing around. Obviously becarefull until its retuned.

Providing mines on the road I'll be cruising at the back with pokie by the looks lol. I'm not really in for driving like a mad man through the hills; brisk cruise for me at the back.

Yeah mine came from japan with r12. If its released with R134a then u retain r134a; if not avoid it and go r12a. Thats if you don't want to be replacing aircon compressors and increasing your fuel bill.

Balance the crank all you want it won't help. The problem with the rb30 is it needs decent rods to rev. Much or anything over 7500rpm and they begin to have issues. Throwing lighter forged pistons on to the end of them does help but in the end.... Your going to need a set of forged rods if you want to rev it reliably. Just like the rb26 or the WA RB28 bloke; I'm sure that runs a set of forged rods.

Not sure.. I've just gone with what ever the a/c bloke put in mine.

lol the bbq gas statement was not to be taken seriously.. But as you can see (propane/butane) it is partially a bbq gas. The 'if claimed to be bbq gas/disgusted' statement; it doesn't sound like he knows what R12a is?? I spoke to the gas bloke who's a neighbour and deals with R12a before having mine gassed. He said its definitely not a time bomb in a cars a/c system like many say. The amount of gas within an a/c system he said its not dangerous and is no more dangerous than R134a. It requires a naked flame to ignite as does R134a. The large amounts used at a workshop yes it is. He said within the industry he has never heard of R12a causing an explosion within a vehicles a/c system. Also after a little googling it appears R134a is flammable at 720degree's and R12a at 890degree's. So a lot of people who don't really know make a lot of generalisations. I remember something being mentioned of why R134a has become the gas of new car a/c systems; something to do with the people who make it; politics and being in bed with car manufacturers. The bloke across the road said not to worry and go with it as its a good thing.

No probs Ash. Simon.. I used a dremel thin cutting disk to cut a small groove in to the end of the senders shaft, pressed the cog on and then fitted a circlip. All though without the circlip or method you have done I highly doubt the cog will work its way off the shaft as its a very tight fit. But you never know.

Here's a pic.. Basically the red dot on the dust shield depicts the highest point of the dust shield; measure from there to the floor pan directly above it. The yoke shown is the std rb20det yoke. You can see how the tail shaft is fairly spot on with its length. Pull 10mm off it (which is done when removing the old yoke anyway) and it lines up perfectly.

I want it running tomorrow night. I've had enough of waiting. But yeah if you could grab a measurement that would be great as I can always tidy it up later. Are you familiar with the measurement I need? I can take a couple of pics if you wish. I'll take some pics of what I do with the gearbox crossmember mount. Basically just go out and buy the required thickness plate, drill a couple of holes, grab another couple of bolts and bolt it all up. Then the tailshaft, no need to shorten as when they remove the old yoke they trim 1/2 an inch off anyway which is pretty much perfect from my measurements. To reweld the new yoke on to the existing tailshaft and then balance it costs $160 from adelaide tailshaft services. Get a couple done and were having the price nocked down to $140 which I'm happy with.

Fine. You'll be sure to hear about it if mine breaks. Over clutching a car is a bad thing when you are not making big power, especially with the 20t gearbox.

GTST turbine housing is good for 240-260rwkw ish. i.e GCG Beyond that just bolt on a GT30r or GT35r with garrets internal gate turbine housing, the M version runs the larger flapper so your able to run less than 1bar and is ~$100 more. If you wish to bolt a larger turbine housing on the standard RB turbo to gain a little more power it really is a BIG waste of money.

Yeah they are all the same. I'm running the ol' Rb20det flywheel on my rb30 with a gtr exedy 4puk clutch. Just grab an rb25 or rb20 turbo or n/a flywheel grab a clutch and bolt it up. There's no drama's.

Hey Tangles, Head down to bill at ATS and pick up a 14psi garrett actuator. Form memory they are around $120-150 ish The std actuator is only rated to 7-8psi or so. 1bar is a big ask especially as turbine pressure rises and attempts to push open the wastegate. How is the cat? Maybe thats not too healthy. The slight difference in power 'may' be simply a different day, different tie down. Or you could be right.. lol Either way if mid range is up then thats the affect the cam gears have made.

The r33 Rb25,rb20 and rb26 flywheels all bolt up fine; the clutches are interchangable. The only difference is generally the gtr clutch runs a heavier pressure plate. No idea on how the 4.5kg flywheel is; go too light and you may find the n/a doesn't quite have enough balls to get the awd to get off the line clean.

Any more power than standard and you really should look at a shift kit to prevent the slip between gears and an aftermarket trans cooler. The smooth slip between gears is what kills the box.

Look at a 5-5.5kg flywheel given you have AWD with the rb20.

The ceramic button clutch will break the 20t gearbox. Consider dropping an organic back in to it if you want the box to last.