Cubes

~15rwkw bigger.

Where does it make 10psi? Compared to the stock rb20 turbo the rb25 turbo I guess does feel like it struggles to get there. I.e lags more.

I've had a stock r32 rb20det ecu with no issue, ap engineering rb20det pfc with no issue, plugged the 4.08a gtr pfc in and the jerk occurs; plug the ap pfc back in and nothing Its the 4.08a gtr pfc bug.

I used to overfill slightly and dump the whole 5ltrs in to mine. But yes.. Around 4.3-4.5ltrs with filter change is pretty spot on. Overfilling slightly doesn't hurt it and is good for it if your at extended high rpm and corner hard.

Doesn't look good.

I think it will look quite interesting in the flesh. A good thing. Very much looking forward to another muscle car being released from Japan.

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans. The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's. The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

The RB30 I bought had the auto spiggot as did a mates. For both I used the grease method; I use a socket with a couple of small extension bars out of one of those $5 small socket sets from supercrap auto's. From memory the auto spiggot wasn't a perfect fit to the socket and a little grease did push out around it; but keep on hammering and it will come out. I use a small short handle sledge hammer. The auto was definitely harder than the manual but keep at it and put some force in to it.

You should see the gauge drop to around 2 on idle, around 4 once over 3000rpm ish. Excessive out of the norm high or low oil pressure can indicate bottom end problems. Most noticeable on idle. Dr Drift would have possibly had a quick glance to ensure oil pressure is still good once the turbo let go. He may be able to shed a little light. Either way; get another turbo on it and make sure oil pressure is good.

Probably just one of those things. But out of curiosity... Hows the motors oil pressure? Have you had it checked since? Not bleeding off on idle? :S If you have the turbo overhauled its considerably cheaper than purchasing a complete new turbo. But do make sure the motors still in good nick and low oil pressure wasn't the cause of the turbo's failure. The 3540 is ONLY worth while if you bolt on an aftermarket exhaust manifold. The std exh. manifold max's out pretty much as the GT30 does. If you don't intend of running an aftermarket exh manifold the 3540 isn't worth the additional lag or lag of response in the lower gears due to the bigger wheels containing more inertia. I've driven a gt35 .82 rb30det and compared to the gt30 .82 rb30 the response difference is like night and day; what I did find interesting is the gt35 isn't all that much more laggier than the gt30 but as I said.. the lack of response kills its 'fun' in the lower gears. Its still fun by all means but doesn't have that factory turbo part throttle bulk torque off idle feel in first and second. If you do plan to push 350rwkw then you'll be looking at a set of cams, exhaust manifold, new dump and a GT35r. In saying that at a later date I will most likely look at the GT35r and squeeze it as close to 400rwkw as I can. Depends how this motor hangs in; may end up playing with a VG30DET in the little 32. lol sacrilege. lol

lmao that is rather funny.. Maybe they were going to molest the sticker and shove it on their VN dungadoor. I drive a VN dunga door quite often and its a horrible experience; oh the sweet note of the screaming but going no where buick v6. Then there's the rattles, squeeks. :S

Longest lasting tyres... The no longer Simex. They used to be fairly grippy when new but quickly went slippery. I've had sava's; they chew out really quick and don't offer the same levels of grip in dry and wet that the cheapo federal 535's do. I don't believe you can get the 535's in the 17's so you may be stuck with 595's which by all means are an awesome tyre but no doubt cost a little more. As I said.. I was unbelievably disappointed with the NS2 245's; I couldn't believe a cheap 225 would hook up better than Nankangs flagship tyre. :S

Found out why you don't need to bother about shortening the tail shaft. Speaking to Adelaide Tailshaft they said when you remove the old yoke and weld on the new you loose ~10mm off the length of the shaft anyway which is perfect as I measured mine had to be shortened 10mm. I was told to measure from the rear gearbox seal to the centre bearing. Also... He said they can replace the centre bearings for around $90 as they know of a suitable aftermarket item. Another interesting bit of information. If doing lots of burnouts with sticky tyres i.e at the drags the std tail shaft spins due to the diff end being rubber mounted. The best option is to go a single piece of which uses solid BA universal joints; he strongly recommended against replacing the std universals with aftermarkets as the only ones that fit have grease nipples so they are not solid items. Which reduces strength. If a drag strip here in SA ever opens up I'll have a nice single piece made up; he said they don't have any issues with balancing etc. There IS another mob here in SA that has huge issues trying to get single piece tailshafts 'right'. This wasn't mentioned by adelaide tailshaft services but other people + a couple of work shops. So in Adelaide; Adelaide tailshaft services are the only mob to go to; as recommended by a few workshops that are in the know.

Steve, Nankang NS2's simply... suck. I had a mates 245/40/18 nankangs on my R32; straight line grip was worse than my el cheapo 225/50/16's and cornering was very understeery. They were basically new tyres. OH and they were super slippery in the wet both straight line and cornering. That is compared to my 225/50/16 Federal 535's which are cheap tyres in their own right. Purely for their poor wet weather performance I wouldn't touch them. BUT a set of new Nankangs will still grip better than a stuffed set of better tyres so either way they will feel better than what tyres your running now. I'd look at something else.

Are you saying he should look in to treating the stock rods? Speak to multiple engine builders and you will soon see its a big waste of $$. Forged rods are the only way to go if you want to rev the thing. Especially when they are so cheap these days. Price up shotpeening and cryotreating and you will definitely be looking at those forged items.

The stock rods are good for 400-500rwkw providing you keep a cap on the rev limit. Treating the stock rods really is a BIG waste of $$. Size the injectors and fuel pump 'just' incase you want to strap a turbo on to the side of that highcomp RB30DET when you discover it still gets beaten on the roll from a stock turbo'd mild r33 rb25det's/20det's. I'd imagine the high comp rb30det would work quite nice with a gt30 1.06 or gt35 1.06; pick up a cheap 1k xr6t turbo, bolt it on to a std manifold, little bit of ic piping and a dump pipe and your up just under 300rwkw with a high comp fuel efficient responsive rb30det

Measured mine up today as the box is in, tail shaft is off to be cut rewelded and balanced. The difference appears to be only 10mm. 1400r, hows the yoke sit inside the gearbox? Does the dust shield section just after the yoke line up with the gearbox's dust shield or does it sit in about 10mm? The gearbox mount is a pain in the arse. With it bolted up I can only get one bolt either side in. I'm going to drill a new hole in the gearbox so the rubber mount bolts up slightly closer to the middle of the box. Doing this has the centre hole in the cross member line up perfectly with the rear nut hole on the floor pan. I've got another gearbox xmember so I'm considering the cop of that and weld on to the end of my existing cross member so that I can get the 2 front bolts in. OR as the crossmember has to be spaced down a little I will grab a piece of of plate thats of the correct thickness drill 3 holes in to it and simply bolt the crossmember to that and the body. If that makes sense. What have you others done with its height? How much higher is it really? I didn't take the height measurement before I took the 20t box out :S

Found some pics of mine when I did it all the way back on the 4th April 2004. pics being attached now.

I've came across a few different sized case fan screws. These are the type I used - http://www.pccasegear.com/category83_1.htm Unsure if they are identical to the ones I have but thats what they look like. They were very difficult to screw in as it was very tight they were also super tight when screwing in to a computer case fan.

Use a computer fan case screw; fits perfectly. The case/fan screws with a coarse thread.

Sounding more and more like a CAS problem. But you've swapped that yes?

hahahah... Sorted those 'boost leaks' yet Darren?

If your making the same power on a rolling road dyno as that of a hub dyno then the rolling road dyno is most definitely reading high. Its well known hub dyno's read higher than the usual rolling road dyno; if its not then somethings up with that rolling road dyno. The local hub dyno here has said 30-40rwkw higher from a hub dyno is the norm. I'll soon to be running up on it so I can crack that 300rwkw lmao.

Keep on crankin'. It took mine quite a while; give it shots of 20secs or so then give the starter a rest for 20 or so then do it again. Not sure if the starter cool down is required or not; I didn't like the idea of hammering the starter too much.

With regards to the diff.. the Kazz is a tougher unit than the std gtr diff. But if you are talking about the axles/hubs then no; the gtr has the larger dia. axles. The diff is the diff the axles are the axles. Ultimately the GTR axles/hubs + the uprated nismo centre and its as tough as it can possibly get. From my understanding.