Cubes

I've recently modified a Navara speedo sender for use in the R33 RB25DET gearbox. Thanks to the rb25 gearbox in to a Ceffy rb25det g/box thread for the part numbers and description on what has to be done. Unfortunately you are stuck with a speedo that reads slightly incorrect due to the different R32 and R33 diff ratio's. Nissan no longer produce a known suitable 21 tooth speedo cog. If you know of one let us all know! Also note the R33 Series 1 and Series 2 gearbox's both use the Push Style clutch. You will need Adobe PDF Reader to view the tutorial - it can be obtained here --> http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html The guide contains pictures so that you know what to expect when you get stuck in to it. Modifying_the_Navara_Speedo_Sender_for_the_R33_Gearbox.pdf

Had any experience with Castrol Syntrans? I believe its a 75w85. Im heading down to the castrol distro to pick up one of either depending whats better.

As Ash said... Its an excellent option for a street car. It cold starts, warm starts, idle's, cruises and operates the a/c like a factory ecu. I wouldn't consider it 'outdated' as it still offers features that only the top end ecu's worth more than 2x its price do. 6x injector drivers (Sequential Injection!), 6 x coil drivers, overrun fuel cut, closed loop o2 control just to name a few. Most importantly it just works. Which results in cheaper tuning costs that tuners 'should' be passing on to their customers.

I'll drop u a pm with a blokes number who is wrecking a clean s2 r33 (but with accident damage) in adelaide.

What would you recommend? Synthetic Castrol?

If you do be sure to keep them in the low 250 duration. A little more lift. Don't go overboard as low mid range will suffer greatly. Troy went backwards when he fitted 260duration cams to his 260rwwk rb20. made less power everywhere; stock cams and cam gears ftw.

EDIT: hrmm better delete that.. probably not appropriate.

Sorry fella's im homophobic.. No hugs for me.

I'm with Paul. I really didn't think much of the EVO lancers until I met Jack monkhouse out cruising around one night. He has a new blue evo that sounds absolutely tough as; it has HEAPS of low mid range and not the typical fart 4 banger note; the note was very pleasant to hear. It was apparently making around 200awkw. Hearing that thing cruise around with how much low/mid range it had impressed the hell out of me. A very flexible package.

I really do dislike the factory oil pressure gauge.. Creates more worry than its worth.

Looks good Russ. Assume thats with the front clsd?

I've attached the ecu pinout.

GT3071/GT3076 will keep you happy for some time. 450rwkw straight line monster with rwd? Maybe at the drags with slicks and a big rpm launch. It would be useless on the street; not because of the power but because it will lag like buggery and offer bugger all acceleration in the first 2 gears when rolling on the throttle.

I replaced every single little hose on mine when I swapped in the rb30. It cost me quite a few hundred just in hoses. And then......... 2 god damn leaked!!! 2 hose clamps; still seeped out when the motor cooled over night. The ones that leaked where around the back of the head and the little one that runs from the plenum to the thermostat housing. Old man mentioned something about the buses/trucks having a similar issue due to the rubber type used; the fix was to dab a little silicon around the lip of the hose and slide it on. Since done that and all perfect. I used genuine nissan hoses for all the little ones so they should have been good quality rubber. I have since found hose clamps that have some sort of spring preload on them to prevent cold leaks. Apparently quite a common thing.

lol.. No fuel pump buzz, no pfc h/c display, car cranks for eternity; sounds very familiar. Don't ask how I know this but take it to an elec. shop with the ecu pinout and they will fix it. Should cost around $100 to fix. From memory the resistor on the main line is the one that dies. Also check the main 75amp fuse within the engine bay relay box; that 'should' also be blown. The 75amp fuse isn't cheap either.

RadR33 had an RB26 pfc fitted to his R32 GTST today. No drama's getting it sorted. In total thats 3 RB26 pfc's that have been fitted to GTST's.

Get it booked in for a leak down test. Will reveal all. :S The white tip is not a good indication.. What does the ceramic look like?

If you don't want it making any more power your best bet is to throw some adjustable cam gears on it and dial the cams in for a little more mid range.

There's 3 types of nismo mechanicals.. It doesn't really matter. They are all decent.

Depends on the setup. The adj fpr is VERY usefull if you have an SAFC and wish to squeeze a little more out of the stock ecu. I run a nismo fpr as I suspected the std one was playing up + come dyno time if I require a little more out of the injectors its easy enough to do. Interesting enough the very occasional random lean/surge I was getting has completely disappeared since I fitted the nismo fpr and had it tuned up again.

The std gtr diff is just a std nissan mechanical diff. Very similiar as to what was in the old turbo 300zx's and r31's coupes. The nismo's are an aftermarket item. Unsure but the N1's etc 'may' have been released with the uprated nismo diff centre. A gtr diff won't bolt up due to its different half shaft bolt up; 6 vs the gtst's 5. To get it to fit you need bolt up the gtr hubs and purchase the axles etc. So not a cheap exercise BUT you will be provided with a near bullet proof rear end should you decide to run some decent slicks with big rpm launches at the drags. Cheapest way out.. Grab a 1k kaaz unit from one of the sponsors and have it fitted in to your diff. The clutch/mechanical diff's are much better than the vlsd's.

Andrew, Are you sure you haven't busted an engine mount? When I dropped the RB30DET in I replaced mine with new ones from Nissan. 50,000km's later I busted the passenger side engine mount. I believe it was most likely related to axle tramp. Subframe bushes sorted that. No doubt with the GTS4 + Rb30 and near 400rwkw you will need something better. I guess you could try nismo failing that I don't know. See if its possible to have some urethane's made up if not umm solids :S

Dohmar, Swap out that water temp guage for a oil temp guage, fit an oil cooler and overfill the sump to I believe the wobble in the dip stick on the GTR's which will stop surge. Search for T04gtr's post or a few of the vic gtr's running with a std sump. Fit some decent brake pads, change oil/filter and take it out on a practice day. You can go as hard or as soft as you like you don't have to trash it. Shift up at 7000rpm max and learn to drive the car, pick braking points and cornering lines. What kills the rb26's is oil surge and over-reving; overfill the sump, don't over rev it and it will be fine. BUT don't attend a day such as this without any experience; your asking for disaster especially if you get a little carried away brake a little late and smack up the arse of the car infront. :S Salad, what fuel did you say you went through in 30mins with 180rwkw? 2/3's of a tank of juice? So 2hrs for a full tank is wish full thinking.

At the moment its all good.. The cams info provided earlier was awesome; saved me hunting it down. Waiting to hear back from Troy when he's got a little spare time. So until then we will just hang off a little.

Price drop $400. Need it gone peoples I need the $$ to put towards a new clutch!!!