Cubes

Mine does the same. Try double looping the wire through the timing lights pickup; does the trick for mine.

hahah.. Well well... Loser wears a dress and shouts beers for the night.

Genuine FTW.. My original shagged out around 160,000km's. But who knows how many 'real' kms it had on it.

haha.. no no my bad fork lift motor it is. I don't forget you lost 20-30rwkw's with the high stall. Its making some healthy power most definitely. Yeah buddy I will be down at BW on sat.

http://www.toyotacarclub.net/forum/YaBB.pl...=1186751226/0#0 If you state you let them know you are keen the cost is $35. I won't be able to run; clutch is buggered.

Thats correct. You should be able to push the slave rod back in to the slave; in other words no real pressure on the fork. I have no idea what the price of a genuine master is worth; slaves are around the $90 mark vs $40 for aftermarket. Aftermarket master set me back $75. My aftermarket was identical in every way to the genuine. everything was the exact same length.

There's no need to drop the int gate if your not having issues with boost creep. XR6T's are fine with their int gates and pushing 400+rwkw. Stick with the int gate, drop a larger flapper in it if you begin to experience creep if not leave it as is. You heading down for the Nissan vs Toyota Dyno day this weekend at Boostworx?

haha. How are you going to explain the requirement for WMI or a plenum to the missus? Wouldn't want to get your ass whooped by a tractor motor, and god forbid a manual. haha

As you have 340rwkw in mind I'm keen to know your path of mods. Plans for cams, exhaust manifold and plenum? Are you running the WMI? external gate? .82 housing? I wouldn't mind having a crack at 340rwkw with the std inlet manifold/plenum, std exh. manifold but with a set of mild cams. Water Meth Injection is the key I believe as the std exh. manifold caps power around 300rwkw; by improving the combustion effiency (Water Meth Injection) I will be able to pick up 30-40rwkw and keep it all stock looking and running in to the 10's with a set of slicks hopefully. Very keen to see if it pans out; if not I'll be forced to strap on an aftermarket exh manifold. ----- crusin33, Mine pretty much looks like a stock R32 engine bay, stock airbox included but with a 100mm cai in to the inner left bumper. Looks stock. The turbo is an internal gate .82 hanging off a 10mm spacer so its all hidden. I even have the std turbo heat shield. I've been meaning to grab some decent pics so will do soon.

GT30r is a great turbo. Im extremely happy with mine and has plenty more left in it. Up to ~340-350rwkw with water meth injection and ~310-320rwkw on pump with cams.

lol.. ahh well.. why not its on a toyota website. lol My whining like a big girl is probably a better read.

hrmm interesting enough a non-genuine master cyl too. I believe the brand was Protec. I go through ~ 1 per year. :S This current one has started leaking. This clutch has been through now 3 master cyls. Time to stop stuffing around and buy a genuine I think.

Peoples... Anyone that registers for entry before the event will get to dyno for $35. Follow the link --- http://www.toyotacarclub.net/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1186751226 Post that you will be attending and with what car (brand, make, model).

Interesting shaun said its picked up mid range over what it was running before as it was doing its R&R through the mid range on the dyno. Maybe the dyno was loading it up a little more of which you wouldn't see on the street in second gear. Quite possible. So down low you mean before 3000rpm?

You could always have the GT3076r fitted up to the .86 garrett IW and have the RB25det comp cover machined to suit. Be sure to grab the .6 comp cover and spend an extra $250-300 on machining the std comp cover. At a later date when you get hungry for more strap on the .6 comp cover. I'm almost certain the .6 comp cover would cost more than $250-300 so often when the turbo shop offers a 'deal' to machine your comp cover in return to keep the garrett comp cover its not really a deal that is good for yourself. That would look stock and push 450hp. Aim for 450-500hp; I find mines starting to feel a little slow. Which had me briefly thinking; I wonder if its lost power. lol I really do think the GT3076 .82 IW feels perfect for the street; instant off idle response in first gear; no lag just a strong off idle pull. The dyno sheet really doesn't do it justice how it drives in the lower gears at part throttle on the street.

R&D FTW!!!

Beer Baron... Rb25t gearbox I just bought = no $$ for the diff now. lol. Well not just yet.

~1-1.3k for journal bearing and 1.7-2.2k for roller bearing. Mate of mine had a MTQ Journal Bearing RB20 highflow and it punched out 228rwkw on 16psi; spools damn close to the stock turbo and considerably better than a std VG30DET turbo. Quite an amazing little turbo that thing.

The HPI ones look near identical to the cheapo -2 china ones. D-max look like the regular ebay china special with very poor pipe merge.

Yokes can be picked up for ~$110. -- Haven't sorted the tail shaft mod yet. Just sorted the speedo drive and will be dropping the diff ratio down again to help prevent wheel spin in the first 2 gears. Prior when I ran the 4.08 ratio second gear felt lazy as there wasn't quite enough balls; first felt great much more usable; now third has issues depending on road surface and how hard/quick I flatten it. So I think the 4.08 will be welcomed, if not more boost. I am running 225's though so thats to be expected; but the 225's do hook a little better than a mates set of 245/40/18 Nankang NS2's.

The VG30 turbo is nothing more than an rb20det turbo with a r33 compressor cover to suit; you use the r33 90degree elbow on the vg30det turbo's when putting them on the skylines. In short.. They are a crappy lazy feeling turbo. Go the Rb25DET turbo with the smaller .6 rear and larger compressor wheel. The .6 rear is fine for the power levels the compressor is able to provide air for.

Does it do it even if you don't give it a flogging? When my clutch (xtreme XHD 9puk) was new it engaged just off the floor; slowly its engagement point has moved up to just above half where it is now. When the clutch hasn't copped a flogging it engages just above half nicely with a hard grab. Give it a flogging and its grab point moves to just before the pedal is completely out, at that point it does start to slip on brisk changes. Sounds sort of similar BUT mines done a solid 70,000km's so its nackered. So try... 1. Next time it does it stick your arm up under the car and make sure the slave can easily push all the way in (i.e not holding the clutch in which would give the pedal feel of a higher engagement) 2. Have a feel for the free play of the fork and note any differences when its cold. 3. Ensure the master cyl's rod is adjusted with some free play when the pedal is all the way out; even if it means shifting the engagement just off the floor.

To bring back an old thread.... If you remove the roll pin so the shaft slides out of the assembly; are they interchangeable between the Navara and R33 assembly's? I assume some one would have had a look?!? :S Would definitely make life easy. If it were possible then using a GTR sender and shoving the r33 shaft in to it would work well as the locating lug is already positioned for the 20tooth 4.1 cog. Which is similar as to what 2630GTS has stated If not I will be doing as Simon has done; grind a half moon in to the shaft and then with a dremel fine cutting wheel, cut a slight groove in to the end so that I can use the circlip. And finally.. Cut a locating groove on the opposite side so that it locates the gear at the correct height so I don't get any gears wearing or cracking.

Depends on the highflow. Generally the core, the comp cover back plate.. depends on how it was highflowed what bearing type it uses etc.

No upgrade is legal. A highflow is not as obvious but one with a trained eye can still pick the difference.