Cubes

Bumpo!

1400r, Out of curiosity have you been running that united 10% ethanol fuel?

Interesting about no neons but its always been illegal to have any other colour apart from white emitting from the front of the vehicle, blinkers excepted. i.e blue parkers or those blue tinged headlights. As for the interior light.. what a load of crap lol

lol... I have no money as the car sucks it all up + the car breaks gearbox's so I can't drive it so stuck at home and do nothing. lol Hopefully getting a 25t box sorted Sunday so I can enjoy the car a little.

You worry too much. Its the cat overheat light by the sounds. If it comes on during hard acceleration its an indication you have a problem. During start up ignore it.

Bundy tube FTW! The stuff is easy as to bend and get it exactly where you want it. Its also cheap as chips.

Has a lot to do with the area also.

IGN:,NTR,ECC, and WRN are nothing. Check the Boost controller is disabled. From memory some default to enabled.

I don't believe o2 sensor triggers engine check light. R32/R33/GTR it doesn't. I don't have o2 feedback turned on within the pfc as I get better economy with it off. All in the tune.

If the engine light stays on there's an issue with a sensor. Head to ETC -> sensor check and look for any sensor values that have a dark blacked out background.

Have you incorporated an oil restrictor in to the braided line? If you take note of the std setup Nissan have used a restrictor at the block fitting and a restrictor at the turbo. The new garrett turbo's have the restrictor built in to the turbo however you are still required to fit another restrictor upstream. When I fitted my turbo I had pirtek use the existing banjo's that fit to the block and solder new bundy tube to it. And was cheap as chips. ~$45 per line so $135 for all 3 lines. Cheap as chips and factory like.

Setup a bait car. Have the window slightly down; would be too much to resist.

1. ~2 kg/cm3 at idle ~4 kg/cm3 at 3000rpm+ 2. Its been covered. From a technical point of view the ester based oils are superior. Then group IV based oils and then group III based oils. If you want to know what brands etc.. Then You can't go wrong with motul, redline, royal purple and Mobil as they market their products correctly. The others such as shell, castrol etc state their group iii oils are synthetic when they really are just ripping you off.

Im out.. Gearbox has decided its had enough already. Only lasted ~ 1 week.

Back in the day... Cordia's are quicker than them though Mates little cordia used to spank another blokes mx6 that had the same mods, intercooler, boost and exhaust. WTF am i using sad smileys for.. who cares if a mx6's got its arse whooooped.

The cams will help hold top end up for longer and improve spool slightly; as you have a short runner plenum this with the cams will allow power to peak a little later as result making a little more peak and possibly improving that TS down the 1/4. Go the springs and cams. The springs won't cause issues with the hyd. lifters. A set-up that has the potential to do very well. With your build up consider a series2 crank or a jun style crank collar so you don't go breaking oil pumps. Head oil restrictors - 1.5mm up front, blocked off rear as per sydneykids recommendation works VERY well. How hard do you currently rev it? Where does power peak?

Just a heads up... All of garretts internal gate housings are now available off the shelf from Garrett with a larger internal gate. The additional cost is ~$100 for the upgraded wastegate.

A bloke by the name of FOOLBOOST on sau sells vented coil pack cover on ebay and is in adelaide..

129.8mph.. I'd say the power is definitely up there. No doubts here. I also run a Gt3076 .8; looking at water meth in the near future. Top work.

hrmm yes and no. If its the .82 then I think it could be about right but on only 19psi?? Maybe 22psi You picked up around 30rwkw from water/meth. With the .8 rear and ~1.5bar on pump they make 320rwkw ish. So 320 +30 = 350.

When is yours booked in for jurule?

I have heard back from the mob in the US who offer the cheapest most compact solution. Who's wired up a tacho to the ecu's tach out pinout? Does it just work? select 6cyl and thats it? If so then its a piece of piss.

Thats some healthy power out of the GT3076r. I assume that's with the .82 rear?

4 x RB20/RB25 Knock sensors added. 2 were off a spare motor and the other 2 were off my own Rb20DET that were working fine when I had the RB20DET pfc on it. The RB26 pfc uses different knock sensors so these are no good to me as the calibration is out.

The $70 tool kit included something to lift the motor out with?? :S I've used a block and tackle in the past but prefer the hydraulic engine cranes as you can move them around.