Cubes

What ever it is... 1-2weeks later it won't be enough and you'll want more.

Funky, I'm running the GTR Exedy 3puk button NSK-7121SC. Required do you think? My last xtreme 9puk XHD I noticed the slave cylinders pin had been crushed back and had a slight wobble in it; possibly why I had slight issues with disengagement. The 9puk was heavier on the pedal than a mates OS Giken twinplate that he has in his GTST.

Get a timing light on it and crank her over. Will soon tell you if you have a signal from the ignitor.

lmao awesome work. Another cost addition to the 25t box fit.

Thats the way.. Aim for a power that you are certain it will get and then you will be happy as a pig in *** when it makes more.

248rwkw

Yep the sad sad truth.. However, silicon has definitely bought myself and others a little time. The silicon trick is most likely fine for the stock turbo setup but with any more boost than 1bar I'm having issues with weak spark. Initially its noticeable as you can see unburnt fuel hosing out of the exhaust on the dyno; keep pushing boost in it gets worse and power goes to shit/spikey/lumpy. JJR coils; I need to see some solid proof they are good for high combustion pressures. If I go and push in 1.5-1.6bar and it starts breaking down even with a small plug gap I'd be depressed I had just wasted $400 in coils when I could have spent another $100 and bought the proven splitfires. So JJR sponsor me. hahaha

Its an R32 chassis.. Setup by the operator is what the problem is. Mine making its peak power at 6k with basically the same turbo is starting to make me think getting a little head work and port matching done is most definitely worth its while. Can't wait to get the lumpy 805c grinds in to it.

If they pull that sort of crap grab their details and make an official complaint. Its simply not on that a car can be defected for an imaginary modification as to clear a defect these days is a $200 inspection down at regency. Elliot, what area/road were you defected on?

I picked up some Motul Motylgear semi-synthetic 75w90 for $12 per litre. See how it goes and change it every 10-15 thousand. http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/gear_box/gear04.html On the label it says its an extremepressure semi-synthetic oil that is designed to reduce gearbox's that are difficult to shift or are notchy. Mind you even the Gear300 says the same thing.

Sky30's 320,000+ km RB30 held 380rwkw and prior to that 312rwkw without problems for quite some time. Providing you don't rev it past 7k on its stock rods, motor is in good nick and tuned well it will be fine. Rbman's currently has his stock rb30 bottom end reving to 7.3k as its holding power well to that rpm; doesn't appear to be having issues. I have my limiter at 7k; still haven't quite got the hang of keeping it off the limiter in first and second. I recently gave the subframe 12mm rake which has improved weight transfer 2x; I can now feel the arse end slightly sitting down instead of what felt like lifting up and spinning with very little forward movement. Go 18-20 pounds; you do have lower than 8:1 static comp so it will be fine on pulp.

Grab some silicon and cover the base of the coil pack while trying to push some in between the bracket and the coil pack its self. I found the best way to find which coil was arcing out was to remove the centre coil cover wait for night; take the car for a drive get it warm, park, leave the car running and then watch the lightening show. If you can't see anything give it quick blips of the throttle and watch down the sides of the coils. All 6 of mine were arcing out.

They have to pay for the new underpass some how.

Sly33, Yeah that would be the thread.. I also remember the China highmount manifold apparently flowed worse than the std manifold. :S

Will be interesting to see if the rb30 fits under the R34 bonnet.

JustJap have a coil pack replacement thats $399 vs the $500 odd for splitfires. They 'look' like a set of coils I've seen that had F.E.T branding. Might be worth a look. Have you tried siliconing up your coils? Worked for me. Mine were popping at std boost with std turbo; siliconed them up and now I'm at 15psi and making 268rwkw without a hint of missfire. I suspect when I ramp the boost up they are starting to cause a few problems so I'm stil up for a set of coils. Not sure if I should try the JJR coils... I keep thinking to myself poor/tight man pays twice which is very much true when it comes to modifying cars.

PFC works fine for my hybrid setup.

Didn't crack by doing it the slackers way and not removing the cross over pipe instead using a swivel?

Boostworx.

Mafia, Here's a friends old mainline dyno sheet. The car was running an XR6T turbo 1.06 rear, rb30det. Inlet/exhaust manifolds all standard. I believe rev cut was at 7000rpm. Dyno roadsped appears different so no doubt a torque comparison is out of wack. Why don't dyno operators just leave it as a set value so we can all compare easily. ---- Where does it make its 13psi? ~3k?

Clutch is from Kudos Motorsport (did an awesome price on an exedy gtr 3puk ceramic) I doubt it will get here by the weekend but fingers are crossed. Putting the box in isn't a hassle, 2-3hrs max; getting it out of that pranged rb25 was a massive hassle due to that slightly compressed tunnel.

Looks great.. And on a mainline dyno which here typically reads ~10-15rwkw lower than a DD Dyno. The n/a pistons with a 1.6mm headgasket will drop the static comp to a little under 8:1. So it should make some reasonable power on pump fuel when you start pushing the boost in to it. Get those baby cams out of it. (240dur inlet, 232dur exhaust) and you'll pick up a good 25-30rwkw on the same boost once you start pushing over 250rwkwish. It appears to be nosing over a tad quickly.. Is that rpm scale correct? Double checked cam timing as it can be a bit of a pain in the arse to get right due to it being a 'custom' setup.

Looks like its going to be quite a turnout. Fingers crossed I get the new clutch in time.

$600 is just too much. If only they cut the price in half; had a greater turn over they would no doubt be ahead in the long run. Does $600 include the port matching both sides? Mine is already port matched so I may give the bloke a ring in a few days and see what he can work out.

lol you found some old Y's.. NGK dropped the Y from the BCPR6E range a good 4-5years ago. The BCPR6E and BCPR6EY are the exact same plug. V groove and all. Motortraders do BCPR6E spark plugs for around $2.85 each. Which is a bargain.