Cubes

hahah awesome stuff Lithium.. Tighten up that actuator rod. 18pound dont be weak!!!

And not to forget we/some have better fuels available to them. VPower Racing 100ron.

Hey Buddy, The box is in; pick up the tailshaft on Wednesday/Tomorrow. My only problem at the moment is the mounting height of the rb25 gearbox. With the std crossmember bolted up the top shifter section of the gearbox fouls with the tunnel. What I really need is for some one with their rb20t gearbox to measure the height from the gearbox yoke dustshield to the floor pan so I can work out exactly what I need to space it down by. I've been told the shifter hole sits ~10mm below the floorpan which is ~35mm lower than what mine is currently sitting. Mine sits ~25mm above the floor pan. :S Another mate has told me his rb20t box shifter hole sits approx flush with the floor pan. Knowing that doesn't help me a great deal though as the thickness or shifter hole relative to the gearbox's mount maybe different to the rb20. I really need to know the measurement from the dustshield to floorpan to make my life easier. The gearbox mount isn't an issue as I'm going to use a little bit of plate to space the box down and provide the support for the standard xmember. Either way I can't see the box needing to be dropped 25-35mm so the shifter will feel a little taller; if it bothers me I'll throw a nismo short shifter in to it. Your rb20t box wouldn't still be in the car would it???? The speedo drive is super easy and cheap to sort; I've written a guide in the tutorial section.

My guess it has a lot to do with the clutch they run.

When I first had mine regassed it wasn't that cold... Checked out the aircon evaporator and it was covered in dusty junk that was impossible to remove. Replaced the evap core with a clean one and it was so so cold it would make your bones hurt in your hand when placing it in front of the vent. It would also make your cheeks very cold to the point where I used to manually turn down the a/c on fan speed 2. Putting the multimeters temp probe in front of the vet I was seeing 0-2degree's. Super Icy.

Regarding the splitfire dwell settings.. If its not broke don't fix it. If it is broke check your not getting a voltage drop; if so fix it if not then consider fiddling; but that is to be done by the tuner with the required tools to measure coil saturation etc.

Yes the input/main shaft bearing should have been changed. You will always get a 'slightly' noise when in neutral BUT not loud enough for you to hear it unless your in a shed and really listening for it with the door open and your head down near the ground. If you can hear it with your window open sitting in the car without walls around you then either something has gone wrong with setting clearances OR they didn't bother changing it. Was it a full complete rebuild or did he just replace what was thought to be worn? The price difference varies between the two.

Pushing my luck a little. If the cars on jack stands. Any chance you (or any one) can grab a measurement from the gearbox/tailshaft dust shield to the floor pan? The shield where the tail shaft yoke slides in to the gearbox. I'm unable to compare the difference between the two box's as I got rid of the 20t box.

Thanks. Much appreciated. I was hoping some one would have their car apart. Now to see how the tailshaft lines up with it dropped down 35mm..

Champ.. I'm after the rb20det box height as thats how I wish to setup the rb25 box. So you measured or was it a bit of a guesstimate? Either way I vaguely remember thats how my rb20t box was sitting also. Looks like I need a 35mm Spacer :S

O'Sullivans beach road Lonsdale I 'think' they are called Coolway air. I'll pop the bonnet tomorrow and have a look at the sticker. http://www.autosite.com.au/autosearch/auto...il.asp?id=19125

Big threads are bad for server performance.

Sorry bud; popping cherry's is more trouble than its worth; for one its messy and secondly they get all clingy and shit.

This thread is now CLOSED! The New wasteland is down here there... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t188416.html

SAU Goobers.. The new Wasteland thread is now here!!!!!!!! A place for dribbling.

The fords had quite a few problems for a while there. All of the ford bottom ends up to the EL had issues with early failure resulting in crank end float. The solution was to drop the EL crank in to the EA-EF's. The EF's still had problems of breaking headbolt/studs. So it really wasn't until the EL's they got it right so to speak.

Maybe the problem is with factory servicing. The grandparents fords were both serviced by ford as are the new ones. The VN was (until the motor let go) servced by holden. The parents 100series v8 landcruiser is serviced by Toyota and after 30,000km's has developed a lifter tick on cold morning starts. :S They claim they use really good oil; castrol magnatec. lol Castrol; some really good oil that stuff. :S Claim a grp 3 base stock is a 100% synthetic. top work castrol. Makes me wonder what their lesser non synethic/semi synthetic oils use; grp 2. :S Within the cab industry the VN/VP's were known as buckets of poo with gearbox's and motors letting go well before the fords.

I tend to dissagree. The ol RB30 is a jap motor and no different to the rb26, 25 or 20. They push well over 300,000km's without issues providing they are maintained and not stupidly fiddled with which results in broken ring lands. The thing is who keeps their jap car long enough to push over 300,000km's; or if they do own their car for such a time leaves their jap car standard; its usually pushing more 2x the power and driven hard. Unlike the family commodore or ford. I wouldn't exactly say fords and holdens are reliable to well over 300k; The inlaws VN commodore bought from new required a rebuild a little over 200,000km's; graaandpa and nanna's EA ford required a rebuild close to 300k and went through 2 gearbox's each before they hit 400k; they had an EA ford each and live out in the country so lots of open road driving. They now have an AU and AU II both of which are starting to have trans problems a little over 200,000km's. Then there's a mate of mine which bought an EB ford; crank end float required a rebuild before 100k; my old man bought an EA Fairmont back when they were new; same thing crank endfloat before 100k and also required a rebuild. I owned a VL years back; had 80k on the clock basically new. When I sold it I had done 320,000km's in it still the std motor perfect compression; the auto trans had only just been ripped out of it for a manual but was still working fine. I was lucky not to crack a head especially as I thrashed the absolute crap out of it, as you tend to do when your young. I then bought a VS 5ltr 5speed commodore; did the usual cam, ecu and exhaust made just under 2x the power at the wheels than it did from factory. Within a few weeks it smashed a gearbox; then smashed a diff then broke the rear subframe which caused the rear to sit on the ground with 45degree neg camber. Give these new fords/holdens a little time and lets see how they hold up. The new ford/holden motors are nothing like the solid old 202's or 250 ford motors back in the day.

Hey ppls, I've recently dropped the rb20det gearbox out of my factory manual R32 and fitted up an Rb25DET gearbox. One measurement I assumed would be ok was the height/position for the rear of the box. With the r32's std gearbox cross member bolted up the rear of the rb25det gearbox fouls with the floor pan as the 25t box has a slightly different' mounting height. If any one has their shifter boot off and fiddling around could you please take a measurement of how the very top of the shifter housing (as marked in the attached pic) is positioned relative to the floor pan. With it all bolted up mine sits 25mm above the floor pan; I can only just get the shifter boot over the shifter but can't shift gears as its too tight. Any held would be greatly appreciated.

Wouldn't put that in the gearbox. Use what is recommended for the box; if its driven hard Redline MTL90 or Motul Gear 300. For the diff I've only used Syntrax. Appears to be perfectly fine.

R12A is a tad more expensive even though its basically BBQ gas. Mine cost $138 for a vac and refill with dye. From quotes I received around 120-140 was the going price. I was told to avoid the R134a with the R32/R33's air con compressor as its not designed and doesn't cope well with the high head pressure of the R134A gas. I remember when I had R134a in mine; it noticeably sapped power and made the aircon compressor audible inside the car. The R134a is apparently 20% less efficient so it places a greater head demand on the condenser which in turn pushes hotter air through to your radiator and places a greater parasitic load on the motor via the compressor. Only 'some' places deal with R12A is because in large quantities its highly flammable and apparently requires a license to work/purchase it.

No strange sucking noises apart from the usual idle sssshhh noise I think mine was only leaking on boost as it didn't cause any strange idle issues or afm readings.

If its factory R12 have it refilled with R12A as its more efficient, easier on your a/c pump, hoses etc and environ friendly to the atmo than R134A. Don't confuse R12A with R12. Its also a LOT cooler and you don't feel the power sap when you turn the a/c on UNLIKE R134A. You'll need to find some one licensed to deal with it; a lot of the people are not so if they try to bag it in order to sell you crappy R134A then go somewhere else. The bloke I use is on O'Sullivans beach road Lonsdale. Forget the name of the place; he's on the northern side of the road around half way down.

When I removed my plenum to inlet manifold gasket I noticed it had been leaking. When refitting inlet manifold/plenum/throttle body gaskets I gave them a spray with Hylomar just incase. Using Hylomar also helps should you have to pull it apart again; it prevents gaskets ripping etc so you can save a few $$ and reuse.

Providing you get the 90degree elbow with it yes it does just bolt in. BUT to make the most of it you need an ecu tune.