Cubes

Dale, I believe before the high stall Dangerman4 made up around 317rwkw with a little less boost and on std cams? The high stall sucked a bit of the power 'reading' out of it. ------- bhappy, As you may know boost is a restriction to airflow. I'm guessing you have had some serious top end work and the larger .8 turbine housing to make those numbers on such a boost level. Just because its making 280rwkw on 15.5psi it doesn't mean that there's anything left in it. Boost is a restriction to airflow. 'Generally' speaking a bolt on type setup (std motor) the figures I have quoted are pretty spot on. Going by the dyno I run on. I'd be curious to check out the dyno sheet.. Assuming it was done in shoot out mode? Do consider different shoot out modes read slightly different power levels. Throw a car on in shoot6 and get x reading; change the shootout to shoot8f and watch it pick up 20-30rwkw. Then there's how hard the car is strapped down and another variable which is easily fiddled with the placement of the IAT sensor. Hang the IAT sensor on the wall; its the only way for a 'genuine' reading. Why inflate a reading due to a poor inlet setup when with the bonnet shut and on the road its going to be sucking hot air and not able to 'magically' make more power because of it.

Go to supercheap and match up a pair. I replaced rear and will replace front; they do have the fronts for mine. Don't get silicon blades they suck; good old rubber works well and doesn't squeak.

It would be good if they do pick up the pieces BUT they may just not bother investing the $$ in to it as the cars are old getting written off etc etc.

Disco; In mafia's case I believe the problem is with boost creep; unable to keep a cap on boost as rev's increase. The HKS turbine housings are quite the opposite; they run a considerably larger flap/hole than the garrett's and as a result tend to boost drop as turbine pressure forces the wastegate open. Grepin battled with this issue on his HKSGT2835ProS .82 IW for years, at one point breaking the actuators arm its self. So its definitely a fine balancing act between going too big and leaving it too small. Have you had a play with Engine Analyzer Pro? It has the option to play with twin scroll turbines etc and there is a definitely increase in mid range spool BUT from 'memory' top end didn't change. 500hp is around 300rwkw; I've never seen a GT3071r push 300rwkw on pump; they always seem to top out a little over mid 200's. Gt3076's push 300-320rwkw but they do it with lots of boost (22-24psi). There's ~5lbs worth of air difference between the 76 and 71mm compressors; but not only the 5lbs difference but how quickly the 71 comp wheel drops its efficiency off at the higher boost levels on its choke line of which will definitely come in to play when pushing up around 300rwkw where high exh. manifold pressures exist. Regardless I still believe the 71mm comp wheel is only good for a little over 250rwkw (depending on the dyno) 76mm good for a little over 300rwkw and the 82mm (60mm turbine) good for the same as the 76 on pump but good for a little over mid 300's on good fuel. GT35r good for 400rwkw.

Just took mine for a quick spin. Definitely no more wheel spin when rolling on the throttle in third at 80-100km/h; clutch slips really bad. I was hoping the 9puk would hold out for the tune. Looks like it won't be getting a full power run/tune. What did yours set you back just for the clutch? Xtreme clutch or??

Appeared to be hooking up ok in third? Mine is a pain in the arse; not sure if its the clutch or something to do with the mastercyl. Its take up point is a tad highish compared to when it was new. BUT it doesn't slip once in the gear. Only slips if I change gears quick; almost as if the clutch is slow to dis-engage.

MTQ = the biggest turbo mob in AUS. http://www.mtqes.com.au/locations.php Most of the turbo workshops source their turbo's and parts from MTQ. ATS etc.. Unsure if GCG do. My dealings with them have been great; they threw in gaskets and charged me considerably less when the time came to pay for bits on multiple occasions.

You mean you finally got the pump from nengun? wow, that was damn quick. --- Chants... <MOOOOORE BOOST MOOOORE BOOST> With regards to boost creep. You need to loosen the actuator right off so that there's .5-1mm max preload. For every mm increase in preload you place on the wastegate you decrease its ability to open as far; which will definitely result in boost creep. Without a boost controller on my actuator it ramps up quite smoothly; ~12psi by 3000rpmish then by 4000rpm its holding 14psi. With a cheapo ball/spring boost controller only just nipped up it shifts 14psi peak boost down to a shade under 3000rpm. I think its just the nature of the garrett actuators to ramp up slowly; I've seen another do it but with a Gt35r. Nice rounded boost knee on the dyno sheet; with the ebc turned on it its a nice sharp knee. I'm quite surprised yours is only creeping to 18psi in the higher rev's being a .6 and all. Push 18+ pounds in to it from the word go and you won't notice it creeping. MTQ (who are all over AUS) enlarge the wastegate for around $250 which isn't too bad. Mine 'appears' to be ok at the moment but time will tell once its tuned.

They run fine without it and return decent fuel economy providing its been tuned well. e The o2 sensors often get disconnected because they are shagged and when shagged cause driveability problems.

24 x Hydraulic Lifters to suit RB20/25/VG30 - $90 Delivered <------ Make an offer They have been bled and inspected by a workshop; in good nick.

Check the plug again and make sure the bolt bottoms out. All bets are on the plug not being 100% true and in as with some cars the bolt can be very stiff to do up making you think its done all the way up but its not. Tripple check.

It appears the origional tensioners on the rb30 from factory ran the good wider bearings; the ones you buy now from holden use the narrow bearing within the tensioner which is the same as what was on the rb20 I have sitting in the shed. So at one point some one shoved a cheap holden tensioner on it. So I'd say the tensioners to get are the genuine origional VL ones that are servicable. or just buy from Nissan for a couple hundred lol. I think I remember the idler from nissan was up over $200!! and the tensioner slightly under. Its been some time but they were damn expensive. I run the 2 x origional RB30 factory tensioners with the bigger bearings. The 2 I sold recently were also the bigger bearing type.

Even though mines 100% stock looking from the outside I always find police slowing, jumping behind, doing the usual rego check then then zipping off again. I guess with the amount of cars stolen its a must they do it.

The Z32 still has a fair amount of resolution left in it from 4.7 to 5.1v so it should max out a touch over 300rwkw. Even if it does max out a tad early it won't matter much as you are still able to tune it well; just means if it max's out at ~17pounds and your running 19pounds that when it is running 17pounds it will be a tad rich as the fuel/ign will be setup for 19. As long as you don't try and push it too far its fine. But realistically Its pretty difficult to hold it on 17pounds if you were making 19-20pounds; boost would flick straight past the slight rich point. The turbo's a little GT3076r .82 (same wheel and comp cover spec as the HKS3037S). I've seen a few of those push a bee's dick over 300rwkw with baby cams so fingers crossed mine does also; when I get cams lol. Its all in by 3000rpm (exactly where i wanted it) and in the higher gears it seems 14pounds around 2700-2800rpm. Bit of a guessing game with what it will make; never really know. I'd guess 14-15pounds 250rwkw; 17-18pounds 270, 22-24, 310ish. Then its time for some water/meth injection to pick up another 30-40rwkw.

Not sure exactly. I'll probably push boost up until it cracks 260-270rwkw; 14pounds should get around 250rwkw providing all is good with it; not exactly sure. Z32 is hitting 4.73v on 14pounds. Up around 4500rpm it has problems hooking up in third if i go wot. Trying to keep off it until its tuned; fuel is mega rich injectors hitting 100% duty and ignition is a fairly safe 15degree's. No knock at the moment.

Im in two minds if I should go all out when it gets tuned next week or leave it at 14pounds to help save this gearbox so it hangs in there for the dynoday. :S I've joined up with toyotaclub so thats my $10 off the dyno run price. lol

I have since noticed the VL tensioner runs a wider and larger dia. bearing than the RB20 tensioner. They were both NTK bearings; the RB20 had a smaller dia bearing compared to the VL tensioner; inside the VL bearing had 2 rows of ball bearings. I have seen 2 types of rb20 tensioners; one isn't servicable and runs a narrower and smaller dia bearing the other is servicable and runs the same VL dia but a narrower bearing. The Rb20 idlers run a smaller dia bearing but run 2 bearings side by side which in width is greater than that of the single vl tensioner bearing; but only just. No idea on the part numbers nothing is stamped on them apart from the NTK bearing number. I'll see if I can get some pics.

The only problem I can see with using brackets is if you have an accident and its discovered you could be in BIG trouble. Insurance etc doesn't look kindly to illegal backyard style brake mods. Madaz, unless your running wide super sticky tyres there's no need for 300mm+ big brakes. A decent set of slotted rotors and a good track suitable pad is perfectly fine with the std r33 gtst callipers.

Bugger website isn't up yet. Is it suitable out of the box for the r32's 4.363:1 ratio?

What NIB says. have a read of Roy's guide on how to wire in the resistors. Up near the ignitor the 12v feed splits from a single in to 6. Shove the resistors there. Or grab an R30 skyline or 280zx resistor pack and wire it up that way. Easier cleaner and can be reverted back with a simple plug to run high imp injectors again.

Hrmm I'd think 10psi is a tad too high. Mine with the 3ltr only managed 6psi; when the rb20 was in it it made almost nothing. BUT that was running a bell mouth dump. So you run a split dump with screamer. Screamer being not plumbed back in to the dump pipe but to atmosphere?

When you said pipe I thought you meant the boost source rubber hose thing. No need to do that as its only more things to put back that may be forgotten.

No need to disconnect the actuators boost source. Just disconnect the actuators arm from the wastegate; then wire the wastegate completely open. THEN.. you should see next to no boost. On mine I saw 5-6 pounds.

Madaz, The reason I turned a blind eye is because there's plenty of others around with both text and image combined that exceeds 200px.

Nope. The R32 Rb25DE ports are the same design/shape as the rb20det ports but larger. The rb25de ports look more like 2 cylinders side by side where as the r33 rb25 ports are more squareish.