Cubes

I have been through a couple of aftermarket clutch masters and 1 slave cyls. $75 for the master and $38 for the slave. The aftermarket master behind a 1+tonne clutch doesn't last too long I average ~40,000km's before they begin to leak. :S All clutch brake Edwardstown. I'll go a genuine master and nismo slave (reduced pedal effort) next time roud as I'm sick of removing and installing.

Interesting to note Disco. The hole wasn't central on the flange either. Thats what led me to believe something was a little fishy. :S Another thing thats interesting is the T3 inlet of the std turbo was the same size as genuine and aftermarket gaskets.

I've never seen or heard of a DOHC head thats cracked. Headgasket yes.... But even then its rare unless its been detonating really bad which also smashes ring lands. Be sure he doesn't take u for a ride and fork out for a complete cylinder head when its a $80 headgasket. What I'm saying is its extremely super duper rare for a DOHC head to crack; for the mechanic to pull the spark plug and suggest a cracked head straight up sounds strange if he knew these motors. Take it for a second opinion.

Makes sense to me. I'll be buying XFX then when it plays up trade in for a newy free of charge.

Michael, What did he have power ported? Turbine and or Compressor covers? I'd expect the HKS turbine inlets to be port matched to T3 standard specs from factory. Throw a gasket up against it and let us know how they fare.

wtf thats crazy.. lol 320mb version?

There HAS to be gains port matching that horrid T3 turbo flange that garrett supply. Why they would not stick to standard flange sizes beats me. :S

I recently port matched my Gt30 .82 IW. Origionally it was absolutely shocking. ~5mm overhang each side of the flange. I would hate to imagine what that would do to the exhaust gas flowing out of the exh. manifold and smack in to it. While I was there it took 5mins to port match the exhaust manifold; the turbine housing took a good few hours to get it all good. I have a carbide bur and found it easier to port match with a few packs of supercrap grinding stones on the end of a drill.. The exh manifold and turbine housing are both quite soft metal and comes off smoothly without much effort when using the grinding stones. The carbide bur results in a messy 'looking' port; I found it difficult not to have a wavey affect using the carbide bur as it takes off so much metal too easily. The head to exh. manifold port match was terrible; the t3 outlet on the exh manifold was pretty close to spot on. I wasn't able to get in and smooth out the flow to the wastegate but it did feel fairly smooth. The leading edge could have definitely had a bit of meat taken out to aid flow in to the wastegate. Here's the pic. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=107723 As for powerporting the blokes over on calaisturbo.com have been doing this with great results. I'll consider it at a later date to chase up to another 30-40hp. Running super rich with conservative ignition I've seen 6000rpm in third with no knock and boost held nicely on 14pounds. So the std flap appears to be holding boost quite well.

The air regulator has nothing to do with the fuel pump control. Ignore the big arsed diagram as it can be misleading.

Not really sure; from what I can see its pretty straight forward whats going on. When the FPCM receives the signal from the ECU the the voltage earths directly. When the FPCM doesn't receive the signal from the ecu the earth passes through the dropping resistor. The GTR is essentially identical apart from the FPCM containing the dropping resistor and receiving 2 signals from the ecu to determine if the fuel pump is high or low.

Apart from the usual sponge and spray over at car lovers/BP no. It looks clean as I just put it back together; I had the head off to be sorted as well as head oil restrictors and new turbo bolted on. Give it a month and it will look normal again.

VHT Universal Aluminium that looks near identical to the paint nissan use on the plenum etc.

Kind of off topic but while on the topic of catch cans. I'm running twin catch cans temporarily to see how much it breathes. If its all good I'll be plumbing it back in. lol Reason for twin catch cans is its not as obvious. So far its all super clean; not a single drop or smear of oil in the can or in the pipe its self. The single 1.5mm restrictor is definitely working well. Pics... Drivers side u can see how I've T'd in to the cam cover to PCV valve. Its just for looks; the PCV is blocked off. Passenger side u can only just see the coke bottle with the hose going in to it. Both coke bottles have a modified top so they can breathe and filled with s/steel scourer. Hopefully I can't plumb it all back up as I really don't like catch cans due to being a big hit on the defect list. --- If your O2 sensor is reading lean constantly unplug it. Its telling the ecu the mixture is lean so the ecu dumps in more fuel. Your better off with it disconnected. From memory with it disconnected cruise afr's are around the 13:1 mark which isn't so bad.

Hey Ash, Once all tuned up does yours fart and carry on with the bov blocked off? At the moment untuned mine randomly when coming off the throttle to change gears pops and farts; drivability is fine; very little afm reversion and no stalls. I'm thinking off hooking mine up just to get rid of the popping and farting incase a mr police man is sitting behind at the time. :S

If your able to make it your self it will cost 1/4 of that cost. ~$40-50 for welding the 2 bungs in for the bov and breather then a little for the pipe (~$20) + 2 bits of silicon. If the pipe is in 4" stainless then for a 90degree bend its around $40.

From memory its listed in the group buy section. Also.. In his sig.

Why not get the silicon jobbie BassJunky is selling?

As I've said. R32's are fine. Mines all up and running and booked in ~1week.

Thanks buddy. Interesting.. I wonder whats up with the different voltage reading between the rb25/26 and the rb20 knock tests in the engine manual. The RB20 states with the ignition on voltage should be ~4v. The rb25/26 states it should be 0.3-0.4v.

Hey Ppls, Browsing through the engine manuals I've noticed the R32 RB20 knock sensors have a different volt spec when testing compared to the R33 RB25 and R32/R33 Rb26DETT. So if you have any laying around whats your part number and whats it from? I have the part number off my old Rb20DET knock sensors. Both have the same part number Japan-A53-000-013-2319 Mafia gave me a part number that is 99% an RB25DET knock sensor. Japan-A53-000-015-6116

There's another jun copy thats a larger version. I've seen the larger rb20det jun copy plenum. Its quality was actually pretty damn good. Velocity stacks inside, welding was clean; no noticable seat of the pants loss of down low but a hell of a lot more up top. It wasn't a 'bolt on' and required a few mods to get it all working. Also.. $700 is a bit rich. They can be had for $400ish.

Keep an eye on ebay. They float around for $60-$100 max.

Bugger.. Definitely a big worry that mine one day is written off by some stupid. I guess if I don't attend those CSA cruises I'll be fine. Nothing worse than hearing some idiot locking it up behind you. :S

Yours doesn't count as you have an additional feed via the VCT to the head. My problem was I didn't know of any one with an Rb20DET or R32 Rb25DE non vct head that had run with 1 restrictor blocked and a 1.5mm up front. The R32 Rb25DE and Rb20 heads are near identical apart from slightly larger ports and the larger combustion chamber/valves etc. So I wasn't completely comfortable using the R33+ Rb25 VCT head as a comparison that it really did work without problems. But yes.. Still more than enough oil floating around; I've noticed I can now see the top of the bucket where as prior oil was constantly filled 1/4 up the base of the cam so impossible to see the top of the bucket.

I think an Apology is in order for Gary (Sydneykid). I doubted his suggestion that a 1.5mm restrictor up front and rear blocked off was perfecty fine for the R32 RB25DE head with no VCT. So I went and did it anyway and it is 100% percent fine. Plenty of oil up top; top ends nice and quiet; no tapping when it comes off a rev; its all good. So my apologies Buddy! ----- I've checked catch cans and there's absolutely no blowby; completely dry.