Cubes

Link works but only shows search results. lol Either way its there 3-4 from the top.

For those wanting a Rb25 PFC. http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dl...&category0= No bids as of yet just over 1day left and its at $1200.

5k for the bottom end also? Won't get you much at all. Especially if your paying some one labour to remove/install. 5k for the head reco and cleanup will get you quite a bit. -- Depending on goals; I would have the head tidied up and reco'd (~1-1.5k); while your there throw a set of heavier springs at it (~$300) and block off the front oil restrictor while installing a 1.5mm in the rear (as per SK's recommendation). Cams can come later if you don't have the $$ as they are an easy job to install. Then its pretty well set for 20+ psi; all thats needed is a decent bottom end to hold the power.

All though most likely do check the clutch master cyl and slave cyl before having the box overhauled.

or big balls due to lack of sex.

The high idle will mask the idle pop. -- When you ramping the boost up?

What rpm does it idle at? I have mine idling at the usual 650rpm. So absolutely not 1 single little almost not noticable pop on idle?

Kissin, Same dyno, same customer, same shootout mode, very similiar amb and it temps. Only variable (that i'm aware of); different strapper downerer and 24rwkw As you can see; only good for a tuning tool; dyno days are a fairly good indicator as they have a common variable; same day, same operator and strapper etc.. I'm not a believer of placing the IT temp sensor on the pod or airbox as it doesn't reflect 'real world' performance. On the road; the car with the pod sucking that hot air doesn't have its power magically increased because its sucking hot air; power will be down. So what I'm getting at is two cars side by side same gear same speed; one with a sealed airbox and cai; another with a POD. On the dyno they make identical power. Who's going to out accelerate who? My bets are on the car with the sealed airbox even though it made the same power as the car with the pod due to the dyno's power correction based on IT temps. Hope that makes sense.

What dyno Kisin? Graham Wests dyno reads 'slightly' lower than Shauns and thats a mainline which is known for reading lower than DD Dyno's. So I'd say the dyno thats reading 20rwkw less which is a hell of a lot has something funky going on with inlet air temp sensor placement, shoot out mode or lack there of or strapping it down too hard. Strapping it down TOO hard WILL definitely give a lower reading. 20-30rwkw is not uncommon. Maybe the person strapping the car down hasn't got all that much experience with the dyno? Which is why Dyno's are only good as a tuning tool; too many variables. With regards to shootout modes. 'Generally' the lower the shootout mode the lower the same car will read; shoot 6 vs shoot 8 for example. Shoot8 will read slightly higher. This was shown at a boostworx dyno day when Chop's LS1 was run up in Shoot6 mode and made 20-30rwkw less than in shoot8F. For what ever reason I've noticed Shaun usually runs in Shoot6 mode (should be shoot6f). Possibly more so for tuning reasons as the higher the shoot the less aggressive the ramp. Thats the way I understand it anyway.

There's a LOT of variables. Placement of inlet air temp sensor, how the car is strapped down, tyre pressure, shootout mode run etc etc. Its fairly easy to see a variance of 5 even 10rwkw depending on the above. I believe it actually reads pretty much spot on if not a touch low. R33's with PowerFC's generally see 190-200rwkw; with cam gears or a 13+psi 210rwkw is achievable. Mine was maxing out the afm and injectors at around 180rwkw; another mates also max'd his out at the same power. BUT just because the afm is max'd out it doesn't mean you can't go on to make 220rwkw with the stock afm. Its just that the tune is a tad crude but it works.

Howdy ho Disco. Ahh shiet.. Sorry my bad; not sure why I was referring to it as a GT2835 when I really should have been quoting GT2876. My bad sorry for the confusion. So in saying that.. I really do think Mafia had what Garrett call their GT2876r CHRA 446179-18. The specs of that being: Comp Side - 76mm 48t .7 comp cover Turbine Side - 53.8mm 76t http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...6R_705330_2.htm So no wonder it felt more willing at low rpm than the Gt3076r.

I found the post where I asked Mafia for the size difference between the rb housing and garrett .63. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...7572&st=20# mafia.. Now if Mafia had the 54mm turbine wheel that would make the turbo a GT2835 as they run with a 53.8mm turbine wheel which is damn close to 54mm. The GT30 cropped turbine wheel is 56.5mm which is almost 3mm larger and easy to distinguish between if one was to measure. SO.... That would explain why the '7 blade' felt so much more lively in the lower rev's.

I don't remember the exact specs of Mafia's 7blade GT30 but I believe it ran the cropped 56mm turbine wheel + a machined up RB25 turbine housing. Both of which would most definitely improve its lively feel at the lower rev's compared to the 60mm + .63 hotside. Until these two variables are removed only then would we truly see the 7blade vs 6blade comparison. I still feel in the dark a little as to the exact specs of Mafia's 7blade turbo. On garretts website the only 76mm comp wheel I was able to find was on the GT2835's; it uses a 48trim comp wheel that is paired with a 53mm turbine wheel. Under the GT30 listing garrett only had the 71mm 56t comp wheels both with the full 60mm turbine wheel and 56mm turbine wheel. So what exactly did Mafia have? A hybrid Gt30 56mm turbine with a GT2835 48trim 76mm compressor or was it simply the Gt2835 76mm 48t, 53mm turbine? Also.. I don't believe the split pulse turbine housings are a special 'for' GCG as they are available through ATP in the US. So I'd say GCG are simply getting the same T3 .7 split pulse turbine housing that the others are also getting. As can be seen here ->> http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

Courier33, Drop that Autotrans fluid. I had gear selection problems in a 2yr old VS 5ltr 5speed Commodore I bought years ago. The rather large new car dealer dropped autotrans fluid in the gearbox and YES it did make it 100% perfect to shift but the box was dead just under 6 months and approx 15,000km's. Syncro's were completely shot as were bearings. The box got noisy and rattly very quick and also began sliding out of fifth. Definitely not recommended. I had an extended warranty on the car but unfortunately they would not cover the whole rebuild cost as the cause of failure was due to the car yards dodgy patch up. I was told to have the car yard fix it and they/the manager said simply "piss off, take us to court". So I definitely won't be purchasing a car from the 'great great guys' ever again.

If its not missing/leaking and carrying on straight away that could be because the cooling system has no pressure. Once it begins to warm and and pressurise the gasket then starts to leak. I'd say the 'greedy' plenums flange needs to be checked for straightness. You don't need to coat the gasket in gasket goop. They go on dry pull it off clean it up (gasket remover spray) and shove it back on with at most a light spray of hylomar. Do check it for straightness while its off. Possibly send it in to be faced 'just' in case.

Nice. At what RPM did it make its peak power? How did power hold? The RB30DET with a smallish turbo is a very deceiving motor how fast it really accelerates. As you said very little to no lag so constant acceleration from when you put the hammer down. The smaller rb25/20 and 26 motors do tend to make the car feel fast as it feels as its top end screams; yes it does scream because it has no mid range. lol

Rev210, 3k or less oil changes. Why so? UOA's showing breakdown?

Fellow Goobers. Now that the Q6600 is at a reasonable price who's getting one?

These small dia oil filters. You wouldn't have a pic? I can't visualise how they could be smaller in dia..

It doesn't even classify as a back yarder. The individual who assembled the motor simply did not care.

I've run Motul 8100 5w40 for the last 60,000km's straight after the motor was run in with PureOne oil Filters. I've recently had the head off. Absolutely squeeky clean, bores look perfect. Zero coking in the oil lines and I NEVER leave the car idling when I reach my destination.

Mine are all sorted. I had pirtek remake the oil/water lines out of bundy tube. ~$48 per line so a shade under $150. The bundy tube required a little bending to get the oil and water block fittings lined up well but it was pretty spot on. I reused the existing block oil and water banjo's. The stock turbo runs essentially 3 oil feed restrictors all of the same size. One in each banjo bolt and one in the block end banjo. They said that running multiple restrictors does nothing to further restrict oil flow? So why would Nissan run 3 restrictors for the oil feed?

I replaced my set of tensioners when I recently pulled the head off. After 60,000km's they were pretty shagged. I was running one single row bearing type and a double row nissan type. Both were just as stuffed. Crunchy and noisy when you'd spin it. BUT saying that; I was slack; I ran with the gap inbetween the cam belt covers. I was 'gonna' fix it. Ahh well that will teach me lol.

Hey Darren, It will be kicked in to life today providing I don't get too held up too much with work; but it will only have a tacked up dump pipe. I was going to have a crack at welding it my self with an arc welder (I'm useless with the Mig) but now thinking maybe its not a wise idea and really should get it done properly. Almost been 4 weeks since its been off the road getting the head sorted and what not. Bugger about that exh. manifold Darren. As I've been down your way lately I've seen the 33 cruising around on quite a few occasions.

It appears a hell of a lot of R33's are being stolen. Thank christ I own a little old gutless rb20 R32.