Cubes

The cheapest 'possibly' suitable are Bendix Ultimates. I bought a set a while back and they cost me ~$100 for fronts and a little cheaper for the rear. Or was it vice versa. :S Either way, shop around some charge like a wounded bull. I think I got the pads from Motormates. Salad, Are ultimates suitable? How did yours mates ultimates hold up?

You'll need a couple of long extension bars for those top gearbox bolts, clutch aligning tool, 2 hydraulic jacks, some rope, spanners, sockets, needle nose plyers or sirclip removers and a mate to give you a hand. I drain the gearbox oil, remove the tail shaft from the rear of the gearbox, disconnect speedo drive all plugs remove the shifter (via inside the car), starter motor etc Shove one jack under the rear of the gearbox and tie it up so it won't slip off while rotating the gearbox. One jack up front to help take some weight. Drop the rear of the gearbox slightly so you can get at the top bell housing bolts easier, remove all bolts then get either side, slide the box out a little, rotate clockwise so the starter lump clears the floor pan and then slide it out while slowly lowering the jacks. Leave the box under the car and as it is. Remove old clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel faced if you wish and replace spiggot bush (pack the crank end full of grease and use a suitably sized socket and small extension bar + hammer to get the old out) Smack in the new spiggot, attach flyweel remembering to locktight the bolts. Loosly bolt up the new clutch, slide the clutch aligning tool in, tighten up the pressure place bolts then slide the gearbox in doing the opposite of what you did to remove it. Refill with oil. I think thats it. EDIT: And always plan an escape route incase you drop the box.

The CA18 runs an 83mm bore. Unsure if the pin height and pin dia are suitable. The rb20 blocks don't need to be resleaved with an 83mm bore?

Thats exactly it. The Attessa aids getting out of a corner quicker/easier especially when making some decent power but the negative being the additional weight over the front wheels hinders corner entry speed slightly. Meaning they are more likely to understeer than the lighter rwd. Back to the origional question Is the awd stagea really warranted for the power and weight of the car? I'm always of the opinion. YES!! simply because I get more of a buzz from an extremely fast corner exit rather than an extremely fast corner entry. Slowish in, fast out makes its fairly difficult to come unstuck. + there's always room for modifications where by the awd comes in to play even more so. I don't care if its not the fastest, its the driving experience that makes all the difference. If you want fast in buy a 800kg rwd escort/corolla or something.

BUT... If your not hooning why would you keep your foot in to it? Keeping your foot in to it yes attessa will pull the car out of the slide providing its not too far gone but that would mean driving the car in a hooning manner. Jump off the throttle or even out the throttle and its no better than a rwd.

Shop around.. Fuel injector cleaning here in adelaide is $25-$30. $40 is a rip for injector cleaning. :S

Well the upside is you know you have fairly even wearing pads. PM away very keen on a budget oil cooler setup.

Response = twins.

Car Practice Days July 14th July 28th August 18th September 15th September 29th October 27th November 10th November 16th (Friday) All held on a Saturday apart from ^^ --------- You run an oil cooler Salad?

I'll grab a few vids of how it drives and email them to you when the time comes. So your running the .63 yes?

Lithium. I have the GT3076r .6 port shroud comp cover with the .82 IW rear. Should be good to see how it goes as I'm going to see what its got, then shove a little water/meth injection on it and see what I can really squeeze out of it. ----------- Here's the before/after pic. Its all smooth to feel even the stud lumps. The dremel is at the old mans so I tried my luck with supercheap drill stones; they worked quite well. I've since smoothed out the stud lumps even more so; the wastegate area was quite smooth so I didn't bother with that. I'm waiting on a T3 spacer from MTQ; I got the head back last week so not long now.

It makes me wonder if people are getting lazy when they compliance these cars. Mine was imported back in 98 and had the VIN stamped on the shock tower during compliance.

My extreme XHD 9puk ceramic with the std flywheel went for ~40,000km's before I started noticing slip on hard gear changes. Slip to the point where you have to back off the throttle and then jump back on it for it to hook up. At 60,000km's and it slips like buggery. And it was only making ~200rwkw but a fair bit of torque as that was around 4500rpm. :S The XHD is stupidly heavy. I curse it every time I'm in traffic, not because of the ceramic grab but because of how heavy the bastard is.

Mad082, But the cold air shouldn't warm back up because its out of the engine bay. My thoughts of having the cold air run the shortest distance was to reduce so called lag as the cool air occupies less area so would take longer to fill the ic piping. BUT in practice would there be a noticable difference. Probably not.

Im with Dave. Now that you say you had a leakdown prior to purchase and all was good there's not really much you can do. Have another comp test done; chances are the test was a bit bogus. How many times was each cylinder tested, should be seperately tested at least twice if there's any funky readings. If it has lost compression all of a sudden it would indicate detonation and smashed ring lands in that cylinder. It is making 200rwkw on the stock ecu with 12psi so really it is quite highly strung. That small SMIC would heat soak fairly quickly after a hard run, keep your boot in to it and it will rattle its head off. The knock sensors only protect the motor around peak torque, high rpm the ecu ignores it.

lol.. On that note. Thread closed.

Kralster, Do pull your head in. You've been rather narky these last couple of months.

Should be good once we are all sorted. Gotta get myself out there.

Was that with them shimmed up ash?

Give it that tough muscle car look. lol

I replaced my sloppy wobbly steer rod bush that I bought from NV N01. I painted it black. Excellent fit. A little tip for when you do it; pull the arm towards you so that you can get a socket on to it, then crack away, spin steering wheel, crack away again. Loosen the lower spline, slide the lower half of the steer rod down and remove the old rubber joiner, fit the new solid and bolt it all up. Now with slight steering movements I can see the whole rack move side to side so my rack bushes too are buggered. No wonder it felt like an old HT Holden. I'll let you all know if there's a noticable annoying increase in nvh due to the solid bush.

lol.. Yes those poor Sydney peoples are a little behind the times aren't they.

Buddy, I would love too... BUT.. Still waiting on a couple of parts for the turbo. Then I need to get it tuned. I replaced the steering rod bush today and now I've noticed when I move the steering wheel side to side the whole steer rack moves. lol I'll scout around tomorrow and see if I can grab one locally; if not I'll have one sent from option1garage for $35 + postage so not so bad. I can't wait until I drive it next as it will no longer feel like its running an old HT Holdens steering box. I will be there at the next one.

Heslo, Maybe he deep down really was attempting to cut your lunch?

To4GTR, lol quite an adventure. :S Duncan, 400cc's was at 100% duty or Pulsed duty (80%) I had a set of apparent low km R34 GTR injectors flowed and cleaned some time ago. Before cleaning they were fine; after they were only slightly better. Averaged 472cc @ 40psi (min 468 max 474) After cleaning Averaged 476cc @ 40psi (min 474 max 480 Pulsed duty (80%) they flowed 384cc to 390cc