Cubes

trk, BassJunky 'used' to run a high pressure rad cap. BANG went his radiator or was it a top hose? (can't remember was some time ago) at a Motorkhana I believe. There's a vid floating around some where. I've never seen some one get out of their car so fast to pop the bonnet.

Disco, The PowerFC provides fuel enrichment for anything below 80degree's. As the Powerfc base maps closely reflect that of the std ecu's maps I wouldn't be suprised if the std ecu's values also provided fuel enrichment below 80degree's.

I've attached a pic of what needs to be hacked away. See how I go tomorrow ripping in to it.

Throw King bimetals at it. There's a lot of highpowered rb25/26 and 30's getting around with absolutely no issues. They are a tad more expensive but worth it. http://www.kingbearings.com/ As its a stroker of sorts it you may be worth while picking up a set of cheap gtr cams for $50-$100 and have Tighe Cams in QLD regrind them for a hair over $200 a pair. You get around 8.5mm lift and 252-254 duration. So nice and mild.

Its definitely not a vlt turbo as the vlt's have the wastegate in the dump. But to me it looks bigger. Pics can be deceiving though. That ribbing I too have seen it on journal bearing highflows etc so I would say its a journal bearing turbo. What journal bearing turbo's are there that have the same rear dump bolt up as the skylines? The R31 RB20DET's ran around with journal bearing turbo's but I doubt it would be running with a large turbine housing as such. Maybe the very last of the Z31's ran with the different designed turbine housing such as this one??? Would be interesting to know what it came off.

I have around 2gb's worth of pics just on skyline car bits etc.

ok here's a pic. You can see where the scroll tightens up. The Vg30 looks tighter. What does it say inside the Turbine Inlet? Is there a stamp with a number inside? I'll take some measurements.

I actually think that looks bigger than the leopard/cima vg30det turbine housing. :S Down towards the bottom of the scroll where it tightens up. I'll throw some pics up of mine.

hahah the man is on the ball. I'll return it to its correct value.

All of the larger turbine nissan turbo's I've seen have the OP6 on them. You can't get any more pics? Get one of directly looking at the comp wheel also showing the compressor cover and one of the turbine housing in a similiar position. Then we can see both wheels and know or at least have a better idea of what it is. Its definitely not a run of the mill VG30DET turbo; I suspect its something old. I suspect that due to the comp covers backing plate. Either that or its been highflowed. If you have the turbo take some measurements of the turbine scroll at points that are easy to describe and I will compare them with the one I pulled off mine a little while back. From memory the cross section width near the wastegate flap is ~5mm wider with the OP6 housing compared to that of the rb20/rb25 housings.

How do you find the sard brings the temps up? Nice and quickly and once temps are reached they are stable for general driving with a little squirt here and there?

I remember reading some speedcamera usage guide or soemthing along those lines but it was a while ago so the technology may have changed. A few things I remember that they are not supposed to do. 1. Not to be used in rain 2. not to be used in fog 3. not to be used down hill I was pinged down a hill on my very first speeding fine so Im not sure how accurate the document i read was. Either that or the police don't follow the guidelines.

Look like the crows are kickin yo asses.

You can.. Its on the outside of the housing near the center. From memory its also on the opposite side near the dump flange. While its off port match the t3 flange.

The Rb26 pfc in to the r32 is absolutely no sweat and can be sorted as soon as you wish. The R33's simply requires a VCT controller to be sorted. So until thats done not much can be done for r33's if you want vct.

The OP6 is stamped on the outside of the turbine housing near the core. So thats a journal bearing turbo? Would be interesting to know what car that is off as they are an extremely extremely rare turbo if thats the case. The Z31 VG30DET's as I said above run a VLT style turbo where as the Leopard/Cima VG30DET runs a the BB OP6 Turbo with 45v1/2/3/4 on the comp cover. It 'could' be the really early 1980-1986 Leopards; I'd assume they would have run around with the journal bearing turbo's. But whats interesting is why would they not have used the same old VLT/Z31 turbo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VG30DET-TWI...1QQcmdZViewItem Thats a Vg30DET BB turbo with its OP6 Turbine housing.

I used 2 tensioners, one high, one low... Enables you to get the correct tension on both sides of the belt.

Your after the OP6 turbine housing. I can't see by that pic if it is an OP6 or not. The compressor backing plate actually looks the same as an early (series 1) RB20DET BB turbo I've seen. Its definitely not the run of the mill Leopard/Cima Vg30DET turbo; it 'could' be a really really early turbo from one of those. Not sure. The only VG30DET turbo I've seen is that from the Z31 which is journal bearing and then that of the later leopard/cima. The R34 GTT RB25DET Turbo also runs the same OP6 turbine housing that the VG30DET turbo does. Can't be sure exactly what that turbo is without seeing more pics.

The exhaust housing looks suitable.

Its all good. I did skim read a touch and for one reason or another didn't see the 3-4load point drop but read it as flicked between load point 3-4. Yes a larger turbine housing will sort the surge. Improve the motors ability to breathe will also; You have cams and cam gears yet? A turbine housing might set you back 50-100 + 300 for machining. Might be better off put towards a set of cams or reground rb26 cams? BUT its still not certian the surge will be sorted. Reground rb26 cams are a shade over $200 for 2 sticks. You net around 8.5mm lift and ~252-254duration. So a nice mild increase that won't completely kill your low end.

You need the BB core VG30DET turbo. http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/images/P7210029.JPG You can see the different VLT Style dump design. The wastegate is integrated into the dump pipe. I 'think' rad33 from SA had a couple of VG30DET BB turbo's that were stuffed and wanting to get rid of. Well some one did..

If you are holding a steady throttle, boost builds and while holding throttle it begins surging then yes that is compressor surge. So what issue is difficult to live with? The holding a steady throttle, boost builds and then starts surging 'while' holding that same throttle opening OR Accelerating on boost, reduce acceleration, BOV recirculates and you get the jerk and load points diving. If its the later; don't mess with making the car laggier the only solution that will fix that issue is playing with inlet pipe dia and length, atmo bov, hks EIDS, or atmo bov + hks eids.

Hardman, I've highlighted the areas of importance. What ben is saying is your crusing along on boost, lets say up a hill. You then back off the throttle the boost guage reads neg vac, the bov releases, the pfc's map trace bounces to the top then quickly back down a little (this is when the car jerks forward) then back up to the top. Bens surge (well it feels like a surge/jerk) isn't occuring when boosting; its occuring when you take your foot off the accelerator as a result the BOV does its recirc thing. So in short.. No Ben isn't experiencing the traditional surge you have suggested. That being when accelerating and making boost. I'll say it again; depending on driving conditions I am easily able to make a stock turbo'd Skyline do this little surge/jerk when jumping off the throttle.

Loctite RTV Grey silicone gasket maker.

All though preying it off isn't recommended as you may damage the balancer in the process. Head down to your local autostore and buy a steering wheel puller/harmonic balancer puller. Same thing. Grab some ~50mm M6 bolts and a packet of suitable washers. All up should cost around $20. If not and u want to save 5-10 shop around. A couple of minutes and its off safely without damaging the balancer. --- If its the cam belt drive gear your talking about... Good luck. hahah I drill and cold chizzel them off. Usually only takes a tap or two if you drill it correctly.